slim142

Well my goal (I havent really think about it yet, but in general) we can say is the following (considering HU, speakers and subs): Have a sound system that has really good quality, its loud, and one that will last (wont get outdated in the next 6 months). Definitely NOT for SPL. For the HU, I want something with an easy (or simple) user interface, lots of options to control the treble, mids and bass. Options to add more functionalities (but not limited to) HD radio, XM, Sirius, iPod, Bluetooth etc. But more importantly, easy to use with the iPod. Also, that is flexible and reliable to use with amplifiers and components with crossovers. If I had to quickly decide in a take it or leave it moment, I would prob go for the 117. Will the 9887 be easy to repair or get a warranty if anything happens to it in the future? Would not like to be in that position specially with a discontinued product.

Ok so with your statements some questions arise. Would you recommend buying a discontinued (9887) product? Or will it be better to go for the 117? So far, I have concluded that I wont be getting the Eclipse CD7200 MKII that I thought about for a moment. Interface its not the best and the output power does not justify it. I think I will stick to Alpine for now, but now the question is, 9887 or 117

I just got notified by a representative from an online retailer that the 9887 has been discontinued. The CDA-117 has replaced it. Can somebody please confirm this? I have compared both of them in the alpine website and what I see strange is that the CDA-117 does not provide this info: Bass Center Frequency Bass Width Bass Level Treble Center Frequency Treble Level Crossover Does it mean it does not provide them? Also, the CDA-117 has 5 Band Parametric (63Hz - 17.5KHz, 1/3 oct. Steps)Adjustable level: ƌ to +6 dB Adjustable bandwidth: 1, 1.5, 3 or 7 Band Graphic Adjustable output level: ƌ to +6 dB While the 9887 5 Band Parametric (20Hz - 20KHz, 1/3 oct. Steps), 7 Band Graphic Thats all the difference I see for now. They both have the 24-bit Burr-Brown DAC which is what most interests me. What I dont understand is that I thought the CDA-1xx series was something completely apart from the CDA-98xx series. Did they really use a 1xx to replace a 98xx one? I thought 98xx were the high end ones

Thanks for your review! Really helpful. And yes, my friend who got his CDA-102 installed yesterday is also using stock speakers and the new radio made a day and night difference. There is much more (cleaner and louder) bass and the mids and highs come out clearer. I can imagine your 9886 was just AMAZING when you installed it. I do like Alpine a lot, but like I said, its been 3 years since 2007 and I dont know how much more improved technology Pioneer placed on their 2010 models or what was developed throughout 2007-2010 that the Alpine unit lacks. If I can find a good deal on the 9887, Im definitely going for it tho.

Why does that happen? Is it normal? Ford Expedition 1 12" Pioneer sub Ported box

KU40 Like your definition, I feel educated now. Thanks

Oh ok, I thought it meant that the setup had issues. It does get noticeable louder with the door open. I wish it was like that with windows up haha

Dont use bass boost on the head unit either

Best bet will be a Sundown. They (read 3 times) r-o-c-k

Where in FL are you?

What a nickname lol

Im most likely gonna go for the Fleks since I like how it looks (barely gonna have 1 or 2 ft visible tho lol) and its a bit cheaper so... This is for a 1000watt RMs system that is gonna be replaced soon and I dont want to be buying quality or 8 gauge that I might end up useless later on.

I have a Ford Expedition 2007 I want to apply the Big 3 to my car. I would like to know how many Ft of 1/0 Knukoncepts power wire will I need. Maybe 10ft? Dont really want to have much left overs...

Thanks for the info I have another question Should I go for KLMX or Fleks? I think Ive seen most (if not all) people who use Knukoncepts go for Fleks. EDIT: Also, since we talking about cables, I would like to replace my subwoofer speaker cable which I think are 16 gauge. I was looking at the Knukoncepts site and Im debating between the Karma SS and the Klear Speaker cable. Kasa is just too expensive and KL3 is for home applications (from what I read). Im going for 10 gauge. Price per foot for Karma SS 10gauge is $1.09 while the Klear Speaker (Blue) is $0.75 10gauge. I dont know if the Karma will give me any difference at all since its speaker cable after all. Im looking at ~12ft (6 for negative and 6 for positive) so total comes out to be $13 for the Karma, $9 for the Klear Speaker. I dont know if the difference is worth it. Usually, when debating this "more expensive cable" threads (like those expensive Monster HDMI cables vs $10 HDMI cables) usually end up in conclusions like "Its just cable, you paying for brand", but would like to hear some input from you guys JUST to make sure I dont make mistakes I might regret or any info/detail I should know.

I see I thought there were people with similar cars here so I could get a good approximate, but will definitely take a look and measure. Thanks

Quick Question What is considered Mid Bass? To be more precise, the frequency range. I hear this usually when people put 8"s on their doors (which I plan to do), but I would like to have clear what exact range is mid bass. Im guessing 100-200hz?

To me, 192Kbps is the sweet spot. Not that I will complain if I have a song at 128kbps, but I will if it is something like 96kbps. Stereo, 192Kbps, 44Khz is my choice. the files are not too big and keep good quality. About the connection, I use AUX. The problem with AUX is that there is no volume normalization so you have the volume from the ipod and the headunit. Even when normalization is enabled in itunes, there is still a lot of volume difference in a lot of songs. Straight connection through the data port is best.

Well the reason why I want to have that 8" in the doors is to reinforce the midbass and bring some bass to the front. But the main bass source will of course come from the back (BTL). I like how those P2 in the tahoe front doors are located at the bottom far side. I feel like its a good idea and position to bring some kick, without taking over the mids and highs from the components.

What I originally had in mind was having my Sub in the back play 30-80Hz, Midbass with 8inch on the doors play 80-200Hz. Components play the rest. But like mentioned before, I might have to play around with the midbass. Didnt really think about that.

Well since Im not looking for SPL and Im not into 100% SQ, just want Loud & Quality if you get what I mean (Ex: I rather get a BTL than a Q) I was planning on having 8"s on the doors and have them hit hard without having to go to frequencies that require their own enclosures or a 60Hz that would sound better played by the BTL for example.

Well a lot of people have their subs running with way more than what their rated RMS is. Quick example, the guy from the tahoe. 2500watts to each coil when he had the BTLs As long as its on a proper installed system (proper electrical upgrades, properly tuned and sized box etc), will there be any problems? And that includes correct gain too.

Well if the X is their budget series and stay in the $100-140 range, Im definitely in for one to replace my Pioneer and finally try out Fi which I know will definitely impress me! Btw, will it be too dangerous if I pair the X (considering its 300watts RMS as rumored above) with my Sundown 2000D? 2ohm at 1000 RMS or even 1ohm at 2000 RMS?

Due to the success of the forums, all the companies present should have a big sale :fing34:

Ive learn so much from this place is not even funny. Thanks a lot SSA community!! :drink40:

Yeah Nick I would also like to know why setting your gain with a DMM is the worse way? I know hearing might be the best way, but does that mean DMM has a high rate of failure?