slim142

Well, trust me, I would get everything set up right if I only knew if Im going to be keeping this car. I have money to put 0 gauge and get a good battery, its just the car thats stopping me from redoing everything from scratch and starting again the right way. Sucks because that also means I cant deaden the doors

So this prices will remain until the end of november? I dont know if the 200.4 is worth it over the 100.4 Im planning on going active with a Bravox CS60CF set. Any comments?

Good guess KU Now I want to report my experience after playing with the radio the entire day today. I want to start with the quality. When everything is off and on default, the music comes out like if it was treble boosted. Comes out loud but kinda high pitched and really bright. So decided to play with the EQ and fix this. I wouldnt be surprised if the factory speakers were designed to work together with the factory radio. This is how I found my ears to get pleasant sound My custom EQ 20Hz (-1), 31.5Hz (-1), 50Hz(-2), 80Hz(-3) 125Hz(-2) 200Hz(-2) 315Hz(-2) 500Hz(-3) 800Hz(-4) 1.25Khz(-3) 2Khz(-3) 3.15Hz(-3) 5Khz(-4) 8Khz(-4) 12.5Khz(-3) 20Khz(-1) Now, this works for most music that does not need bass. When I need the bass to be a little more present, I just bring back 50Hz and 80Hz to 0. However, I have some problems. Today when driving around, I found that there was a point (Custom EQ w/ 50hz and 80hz on 0, Subwoofer level +4 and bass knob on max w/out clipping) that my front speakers (not the tweeters, but the woofers) would distort on high volumes. For a moment I thought it could be too much bass sent to the speakers? But then I checked the EQ and the 80Hz is on 0 and the 125Hz is on -2 So why did the music started distorting? Was it because I have reached the maximum (rms maybe?) with them? Cause I cant explain "too much bass" at the speakers at this point. Also, it seems like its kinda hard to find the distortion point on the subwoofer. Some songs will not give out the same bass they did with my factory radio and when I try to fix it, music sometimes starts coming out ugly, like distorted a bit or bass just comes out ugly (not distorted, but like... strong notes from my factory radio sometimes come out weak, some feel like they come out when they shouldnt and thus messing up the song). Sometimes, some songs feel like they could have more bass, so I bring the 50Hz band to +1 or +2 and it seems like the subwoofer can handle it, but at the same time it makes the front and rear speakers distort a bit? (its more noticeable at +3) I dont understand since I have my LPF on 80Hz with 12db slope, HPF on 80Hz with 12db for both front and rear speakers. I really like how the radio sounds. The quality is amazing (yes, even with factory speakers) and I can go up to high volume levels without bass. That is no problem at all. The problem comes when I try to bring bass to the system. Seems like no combination between bass knob (amp gain), EQ, subwoofer level and volume can be found. Either it distorts front speakers, there is not enough bass, or sub starts clipping or the mids/highs are not loud enough. I played it safe. I used sub level +4, bass knob on max w/out distortion (4 clicks), 50hz and 80hz on 0. Volume I usually found myself between 50-54 out of 62 which is above 75% I know, but anything below 45 is really low (trust me, Im not deaf, anything below 45 is nothing loud) At this point, what should I do? this is becoming really complicated and annoying. I really dont want to have to be driving and have to mess around with 3 or 4 settings to have a song play "right". There is 2 custom EQs that you can set at anything you want, I honestly dont want to be having to increase and decrease the sub level/EQ bands for every song.

How do I get to set up the Auto EQ and Auto TA? Dont have the manual with me right now

Thanks Cheese Will go and give it another try. This time, will go beyond halfway if I have to and see if that makes things any better. Will keep you updated

Ok guys had some time today to play with the gain. The news are not that good. I increased the gain a bit more, not half-way yet, but close. Still, with 4 clicks on the bass knob, the sub reachest its limit (I can go up to 5 but its a small improvement, I kept it at 4 to stay away from clipping). The only way I can make the sub sound like it did with my factory radio is to play around with the EQ. The way I have the EQ right now is 20hz (-1) 31.5hz (+1) 50hz (+2) 80(+2) 125 (+1). Everything else flat (20hz on -1 because I wanna play it safe and no need to increase that one). This is how I need the EQ to be in order for the bass to sound 90% of what it sounded like with the factory radio (plus the 4 clicks on the bass knob and subwoofer level on +6 of course). I feel like some songs need a +3 on the 50Hz band to sound as loud as they did with the factory radio. An important thing, I still havent set up the Auto EQ with TA. Was trying to figure out but couldnt find how. I guess I will have to read the manual (or if Bassahaulic could tell me how it would be great) Any comments?

[PLACE A LOT OF ENVY HERE] Great set diablo! Please install them and show us what this are able to do!

Thank you so much guys for the help! I really appreciate this! The radio is in standard mode. Bassahaulic, I was trying to remember who I saw with this radio on his signature! Nice to see you in this thread! Ku40, yeah thats what I thought. I have both RCAs (red and white) connected to the amp anyways so Im going to leave it on stereo. And now that you mention it, it makes sense. The factory radio and LOC are pretty much very different than connecting straight to the HU without amplified signal. Will spend a good time tuning the bass if not tonight, tomorrow. Thanks all! EDIT: Just checked the sundown 2000D and saw this (Input Sensitivity 200mV to 6V (+/- 5%) My HU has 5V preamp outputs, so does that mean the gain will pretty much have to be set past the middle? or that doesnt matter at all and I should just go ahead and set-and-test with the tone and forget about numbers and voltages?

Update Yes guys, the LEVEL setting was there, it only goes up to 6. Yes, bass improved and now much more comes out. Still not there compared to my factory radio (maybe 4/6 of my factory), but I was rushing so Im thinking I need to readjust the gains and play a 50Hz tone. Anyways, I'll keep you updated guys! Question while I find time to fix the gain: Should I leave the subwoofer setting on MONO or STEREO? (I only have 1 sub btw).

Notorious! How ironic! I was just giving a look at the manual and realized I had to go to the LPF and then move up to go to the subwoofer level setting! Anyways, cant wait to get home and start playing with this! Its probably on a really low number! Will come back with an update! Thanks!

I have triple checked that. RCA is going to Subwoofer out. No, increasing gain in the amp did not help. To give you an idea of how much I increased it, I brought it up from 8 o'clock (where I had it with my factory radio) to 10 o'clock and nothing. Played around with the bass knob too but nothing. After 4-5 clicks on the bass knob, bass just stops getting louder (but still only 1/6 as loud of what the sub would get with my factory radio). Im lost now

So far I have left all (front, rear, sub) filters on default which is 80hz. I have my LPF (the sub one) slope at 12db and the front and rear slopes at 18db. Besides that, I have also changed "SUB" from OFF to ON and SUB MONO to SUB STEREO. My RCAs, since the sundown 2000D doesnt have a specific L or R, I just have it like this: White RCA from HU to bottom input RCA, red RCA from HU to top input RCA. Let me know if Im doing something wrong or if you need more info.

I spent like 30 mins going though most settings, for some reason I couldnt find the subwoofer level. I think I have to take a look at the manual. But thanks for the help, all comments are welcomed No bass makes me be worried

So my friend just got a new Sundown amp. The recommended fuse size is 200 amp. He just told me on the phone he currently has a 60amp fuse on his fuse holder. He asked me if it was fine to use what he had, I said I was going to ask around first to see if it was ok to do so. Is it ok to use a 60 amp fuse or will there be any problem/risk or anything?

But he should still upgrade it to 120 right?

Ok So he has to change that 60amp fuse before installing anything. Thats a must do. But before telling him to go buy a 120amp fuse, how do I know if the Rockford Fosgate 4Gauge wire can handle a 120amp fuse? The kit came with the 60amp fuse he has right now, will it be ok if he just replaces the 60amp fuse with a 120amp fuse? Also, does it matter what fuse brand or model he gets? I thought about KnuKoncepts, but with shipping it comes out to be like $11 lol

Ok hold on He is running only one sub (I think something around 1000watts rms), and he is not going to be using the 2000D to its full 2000watts (at least not now, he needs to upgrade the wiring and electricals). Right now, he cant upgrade to 1/0 (I think he is saving for it right now) So if he plans on keeping the 4gauge (which is from a Rockford Fosgate full install kit so its not a cheap cable) and use like 1000watts RMS from the 2000D, should he get a 120amp fuse? Also, are you saying that he should get another fuse holder with another 120amp fuse? So that he has a fuse on each end of the power wire (one on the battery terminal and one right before the amp)?

4 gauge for power and ground Sundown 2000D only one fuse holder It is ~6 inches away from the battery terminal

Got it

I will speak with Bravox today. I want to place the order in the next 48 hours. Mark and I have to finalize exactly the quantity of items we are going to order. Sounds great! Cant wait to replace my factory speakers!

Yeah I was also thinking about just forgetting about 18s and go for a single 12 dcon with a khaotik enclosure. Thats like $350 we are talking about. The problem is that later on I wouldnt be able to sell the enclosure and most people around my place dont have an idea of who SSA are. Wouldnt pay much for it if I try to sell it. Also, idk how if the DCON would be able to handle 1000watts RMS since its rated at 300 I would be giving it 3 times the continuous power. Im thinking about saving the money, and go big when I get all my money together. According to you guys how should the car electrical upgrade process should be? in what order? Alternator Big 3 Battery

Hey Denim is there any expected time of arrival for the next shipment?

Oh man, why out of the sudden is everyone trolling at me? Im here for help man I see. So it was a myth all this time!. Something learned today! So what you are saying is that given the same test bed, same conditions and same power (let say 1000watts RMS) a 12" will hit a 30Hz note as good as an 18"? Because I learned in this forum that there is no need for that one sub. Heck, it reminds me of the Jackhammer. If it was that good, dont you think people would be getting it instead of two or more BTLs, Mayhems or SMDs? and I also think that space is a big issue for most.

is that worse or better than welding ones?

EDIT: Mistaken post.