slim142

Im saving up for a Leviathan

I will be getting a new car soon. I honestly dont want to use my current 4 gauge as it limits me to <1300rms I want to go straight to zero gauge so I dont have to worry about the wire in the future. I wanted to go for Kicker, but wire is wire and Knukonceptz seems to have a good reputation here and seems to be cheaper. I also heard about Welding Supplies, they seem like another good option. However, I recently read a thread were one of the wires (dont know if Knukonceptz or Welding) was made of CCA (copper covered aluminum I believe). All I remember was that CCA wire should be avoided. So now I ask, which one is the one to go for? I really cant make a mistake since I'll be buying a decent amount of wiring. Also, I thought about running 2/0 (NOT 2 gauge), but I was told it was overkill. If I wanted to use 2/0, I should use it for the Big 3 only. Any thoughts here?

Yep, you are right I mean, Im also upgrading from 4 gauge to 2/0 and since this is something I dont want to be upgrading later on and is pretty much as important as the other factors in the system, I might as well just go for the best performing wire. I think 2/0 welding will be great for my system. Wont have to worry about getting a thicker wire later on or not been 70% efficient because of CCA>

So KnuKonceptz Oxygen Free wire is actually the "good" wire from them. I guess I could use 2/0 from welding for the big 3 and 1/0 oxygen free from knukonceptz for the power and ground. But then the problem is that 1/0 oxygen free from knu is $3.40 while 2/0 from welding is $2.95 I might as well just do 2/0 all around

So for the ones who read my previous thread, unfortunately, the guy sold the 2 MMATS and Im left with my single 12 pioneer. I been looking for some time already to replace my sub. I came to the conclusion that Im better off going with 2 12s rather than a single 15 since I will have more cone area. The three options that catch my attention are IB3, X and DCON. Yes, Im on a budget. And that is $300 shipped, no more than that. (as thats was what I was originally gonna spend on the MMATS subwoofers that I was offered). IB3, the problem is that 2 12s would come out $340 + enclosure price. Also, I think IB3s are for home use right? I could probably go for 1 15, the thing is that my other two options (X and DCONS) sound like a better way to go because of price for cone area. X, a subwoofer that is entry level to Fi. Would be great to start exploring a brand that has always caught my attention and always wanted to try! (I have so much respect for them and I havent even heard them in person lol) I could get 2 15"s for $320 ($140 + BP power option each = $320) OR without the BP Power so I could use those $40 towards the enclosure. Since I dont want to replace my current 4gauge wire, I think it would be better to go without the BP power option, and just put the 2 15"s in 2ohm with my Sundown 2000D (1000rms @ 2ohm) which would give 500rms to each subwoofer. (twice the rated power on the X, shouldnt be that bad right?) or is it better to go with the BP power anyways? Just to be safe? I could also get 2 X 12"s for $238 (without BP) and save more money (but noticeable less cone area) OR I could put BP option to them (for $280 total), more RMS handling, but still less cone area than the 15s. Last but not least are the DCONS. I could get 2 of these for $250, get an enclosure and still be close to my $300 budget without going much over the limit. Im looking for the highest output. I want to get really loud. I dont care if I can do hairtricks, set off alarms, shake other cars besides mines. I just want really loud, powerful bass. The highest my budget will allow. If there is any other option out there that compares and fits my budget, let me know to consider it! Looking forward your help

Ok so I want to have something clear. Knukonceptz does NOT use pure copper on their cables. I should AVOID them if I want the BEST efficiency right? After a quick look, I want to get this for my Big 3, Amp power wire and ground wires http://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/spider.pl?304-1330B||1|146| Is that one right?

Sorry man, we aren't doing measurements lol. Thats the best I can do, is just tell you the sizes. I'm not a tailer lol. Sorry well I wasnt asking for every single piece of information you can possible get from a shirt armpit to armpit measure would be enough. Am I asking for too much now?

Well since it looks like it wont go any lower than $30 Can I get the measurements for M and L sizes? I wouldnt like to get one too big or too small

Finally!!!! A Gap filler between the D and I

I thought this was $30 before the group buy? Cause I was about to get one, but decided to hold on cause of some other priorities.

Yes please more footage on xcon excursion and those carbons! Btw, how do you like those havoc tweets?

Congrats man!!! You been really helpful ever since I came to this forum! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Excuse me sir but pics would really be appreciated

I live in South Florida (around the Aventura area, right north of barl harbour) And I have never heard an Fi, AA, Incriminator, Cerwin Vega, SSA, Sundown or DD subwoofer. Does anybody live around my area so that I can hear and know what these subs play like? Miami-Dade or South Broward, I dont mind driving a few miles to hear those subs!!!

Sir (ztkraptor) Your gain is that knob called LEVEL (which ranges from 9v to 0.2v) Your level (gain) knob has to match the voltage of your headunits RCA. If you have an aftermarket headunit, you will most likely have to set that to 2v or 4v depending on your headunit (some aftermarket units feature 5v RCA like my Pioneer in my signature, and some 8v). If you have a factory headunit, you will have to set your gain according to your Line output converter (LOC). If you are using high level input (getting signal from speakers to your amp), then your gain will most likely have to be set low since you will most likely clip the signal pretty fast (this is the worse way to send signal to an amp) If you smell something funny/weird, is your coil getting overheated If you smell something completely disgusting (like something getting burned badly), its you clipping the signal and about to kill your sub. Funny smell, low volume signal a notch. Burning smell, turn down the volume and most likely the bass knob.

MOAAAAAAAAAAR PICCCCCCSSSSS!!!!

Saw that too IMO, if you know what you are doing and know how to take care of your speakers, then go for it. I also want a leviathan which will power bravox speakers. Just saving up for it.

Because it has alot of parts in it... It's a ~2000-watt total RMS power Class A/B amp -- naturally it's enormous. Ok maybe Im trying to compare apples to grapes here but The leviathan is 150rms x 6 channels. 200.4 is 50watts more, but 2 channels less. I dont understand the HUGE size difference.

Best rear filling possible Also wins for best sorround system

I have a question Why is the 200.4 so big?

I dont know if I posted mines before but its on my sig I think my next upgrade will be a Leviathan. Hopefully its still under group sale by then.

I loled at Marks post hahaha

The title reminded me of the SSA Intervention video LOL Cory "they shoulda stole THAT shit instead!" hahahaha

Me, honestly dont like the idea of having subs in front right next to me. Couple of reasons, but whatever floats your boat. Interesting different ideas

Mark is at SEMA during the week and won't be able to give an update until he gets back. I see Well if you could let him know to check this thread when he comes back would be great