Curtis96olds

what i may do, instead of finding a single 12... is do a few electrical upgrades and get a crescendo bc2k to run on the sa-12's, that way i can overcome the smaller box by running more power, ive pretty my came to the conclusion that im not doing anything wrong, its just not as loud as i would of expected.

I have a pontiac g6, just built a box for 2 sa-12's, wired it down to one ohm running off a AQ1200D. I put the box in, turned it on, turned up my volume to my "max" which is 25 out of 35 on my alpine CDE-123. Now the problem is, i turned to to 25, went back to set my gain, and for now im gonna set it using the clipping indicator on the remote knob (until i can get a DD-1) so i kept turning up the gain, and i had to turn it up all the way to get any "decent" output out of the subs and the clipping light didnt even blink, what i mean by "decent" output is it sounded like 2 8's and the subs barely even moved. box is 3.3 cubes after all displacements tuned to 32hz with 15sq inches of port per cube. subsonic is off right now for testing, and LPF is set to 80. now this isnt my first system, far from it, but ive never had this problem before. anyone have any ideas? subwoofers look like there moving in phase (what little they are moving anyway) i tried changing the polarity on my H/U and that didnt change anything, the only thing i can think of is i reversed one of the wires inside the box by accident, but i dont think i did. also, i am firing forward, but its not sealed off yet, but that still shouldnt change the fact that the subs barely move, and i had to turn the gain all the way up, just doesnt make sense

i would love to do that, but i need to be able to take the box out from time to time

would i have been better off to go with lower port area in favor or a larger box? because i litereally cant build a bigger box to fit into the trunk, i had to take trim panels off to get this one to fit to begin with. if i went with a port thats 3.5" wide and 25" long, it would still give me a 32hz tuning but i would be up to 3.5cuft while still being within acceptable port area, would that make that much of a difference? i havent tried firing to the rear yet, but like you said it would have to have enough air space around to box to get back into the cabin, in which my case wouldnt be enough, i only have about 3" on each side of the box and the box goes to the top of the opening, so i figured firing forward would give me better airflow into the cabin

thats just it it, there is no one in my area into bass, i live in northern new hampshire... we have forest.. and thats it lol, i dont even get cell service at my house. thats why i turned to you guys

all connections to the amp are solid, good grounds, DMM reads 12.53 volts at battery and 12.52 volts at amp (with car off) box is 30x24x14 with a 4"x12.5" port that is 35" long, gives me a tuning of 32hz, box sounds looks good to me, like i said, im stumped.

i just took the subs out to check the wiring, i triple checked it, and everything was wired correct, but just to be sure... instead of using jumper wires from coil to coil like i had... i did an individual run of wire for each coil down to the + and - bolts, then had my dad double check the wiring as well. put it all back in, turned it on, and it sounded the same. so im not sure where to go from here, like i said, maybe i was just expecting too much? i dunno, but even on low notes the subs barely move. an example is the song "betcha cant do it like me" by D4L, the low note on that song really got my BTL moving, and that box was tuned to 32hz as well, so i played that song on the sa-12's and they barely moved.

hmm i guess i will pull them out tomorrow then, if its not wired wrong, where do i go from here? because like i said, ive had smaller systems and they were alot louder then this, hell my 2 10" sony xplodes from my first system would of gives these a run for there money they way they are playing right now.

i havent yet, no, to pull the subs i have to get the box out of the trunk, which is a PITA, even if it was wired wrong wouldnt the polarity of one be reveresed? i would be able to see that by looking at the subs, and they are moving in unison, not to mention my DMM says they are wired to 1.3 ohms, i dont see how it can be wired wrong? i attached the positives from boths subs to a bolt, and the negatives from both subs to another bolt, and then ran wire from the bolts to the amp.

i did some research and i guess my H/U doesnt clip until you max the volume out and do +15 on the bass, so i reset my gains for max volume (35) and been riding around for 2 days like this... now the clipping indicator is barely blinking...never solid. yet after about 10 mins of music i start to smell coil and the dustcaps are hot. i feel these subs have more in them then this... i know im tuned low which would cause the subs to move less listening to lower music.. but these subs BARELY move, even on low notes...i mean it does get moderatly loud...but my old single 15 AQsdc2.5 got way louder then these and that was off half the power and a shitty box.

i know, i wont have time to pull out the subs until the weekend, but until then, im trying everything else i can think of that could be wrong.

well i did what was suggested earlier... set my gains to a higher H/U volume... i decided to make 32 out of 35 my "max" and turned up the gain until the clipping light started blinking (not solid) and it is louder, but not what i feel it should be, but atleast the gain isnt maxed out now. i dunno maybe im just used to how loud my BTL 18 was, and i was expecting too much out of these subs. (BTL was run off the same 1200D amp)

just checked the ohm load, its reading 1.3 ohms, which means its wired right.

very unlikely, i put all the positives together and all the negatives together, and its 2 d4 subs, so thats definatly 1ohm. is there anyway i can check my ohm load without taking the subs out of the box? just put the dmm on the positive and negative of the amp terminals? or will that not work.

dust caps are still cold, the weird thing is, with this same headunit, im my last vehicle, i had the volume set to 25/35, and only had to turn the gain up to about 1/4. same amp, same headunit, same everything, only thing different is the subs and box. so your saying i should re-adjust my gains so my "max" volume on my h/u is like 35? that way my gain doesnt have to be up so high? cause right now my gain doesnt go high enough to maximize the signal at 25/35 volume. but i still think there is another problem here somewhere, but i will try that tomorrow and see what that gets me

i have the LPF filter on the amp turned all the way up (200hz) that way i just set it to 80hz on my H/U and its more accurate, and right now i have my SSF all the way down (20hz) just for testing, sub level on the deck is set to zero (flat) it can go to -15 or +15 but ive always kept it at zero in all my systems and just left it there forever. this is my second time buying the alpine cde-123 H/U ive used it in my past 3 systems, so i know pretty much what i can do, so im 100% sure i have the H/U settings correct

post a pic of it and we'll tell you exactly what you have

yeah im using the passive crossovers that come with the speakers, i have the HPF on my headunit set to 80hz

i have a MB Quart dsc4125 4 channel amp that i want to bridge down to 2 channels to run my ID XS65 components. off my head unit i have 2 sets of rca, one set for the "Front" and one set for the "rear" my question is how do i get the signal to be stereo and not mono? i hooked up the rca's like i normally would.. i put the "front" rca's on channels 1 + 2 and the "rear" rca's on channels 3+4, i switched my amp to 2 channel mode, turned it on and the signal was mono (i could tell because i used a song that usually has the left speaker playing in the beginning, but both were playing) how do i plug in my rca's to make the signal stereo again while still being bridged?

thanks Impious, you cleared up all of my questions, and even though the other suggestion sounds like it could work since i already have the second set of rca's ran.. im gonna go with the rca splitters, that way seems the easiest, i just hope it works, running it through my head it sounds right, so we'll see lol

i tried that, and it still played in mono... im not sure what im doing wrong. i have 3 sets of rca ran in my car right now, the "front set" hooked to the front outputs on the headunit the "rear set" hooked to the rear outputs on the headunit and the rca ran for the subs, which is out of the equation as far as this problem goes the combinations ive tried are rca's hooked up like normal, meaning the front outputs on h/u to the front inputs on amp, and rear outputs on h/u to the rear inputs of the amp then i tried to totally disreguard my "rear set" of rca and just run the front set to channels 1+2 on the amp while it was in 2 channel mode and i still got mono

so i would only need one set of rca's going from the headunit back to the amplifier then? so i will have a left and a right rca, i put a y adapter on the left one and put it on channels 1+2, then put a y adapter on the right one and put it on channels 3+4? so i need 2 of these http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLA-1F2M-BK one attached to the left channel of a rca and the other attached to the right channel of a rca, with only one rca cable ran from the head unit to the amp?

they look like 12v to me, each cap is a cell, and each cell is generally a little bit above 2 volts.. and since i see 6 caps i would bet thats its a 12v battery.. but like they said i would not use it in the cabin of a vehicle on a side note the parts store i work for sells deka batteries and they are actually fairly decent

well the DIC features i can live without (like the mpg, tire pressure and stuff like that) but people have told me that you also lose out on warning chimes like low oil and other stuff like that which i would rather not lose

i just bought a new car...well new to me, a 2008 pontiac g6 and plan on starting my audio system real soon, the obvious first thing to upgrade is the radio. i went to crutchfield (i buy all my head units from them as they usually make it simple and include everything you need, usually for free) im a little confused on what i need to buy on this one though, this car has the oil life, fuel mileage and all that stuff built into the radio so i would need a special kit to retain all of that, which i definatly want. the link to that is http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120993303/Chevy-Pontiac-Adapter-Package.html now when i added my head unit to my cart, it suggested i add this also, which i did because i want it to remain as factory as possible, and in the description on that page is said the kit i linked would be all i would need to install a new radio... but then crutchfield contradicted themselves by saying that i also would need to buy http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127OS311B/PAC-GM-Radio-Replacement-Interface.html... but correct me if im wrong.. but i would only need to buy the PAC unit if i didnt buy the factory ingeration kit and just went with a basic dash kit.. am i right? or do i really need to buy both? sorry for such a long post, but basically im definitly buying the factory integration dash kit, but do i need the second thing i linked?