aimone

so im getting a brand new rf power hx2 15 thats been sitting since it was bought because the guy bought 2 of them years ago and only used one. i also found a hifonics bxi2010 bnib never been hooked up for $180....i want the hifonics but the guy with the sub has a power acoustik bamf 5500 which should i get? and im thinkin of taking my backseat out and walling between the cab and trunk. now the question about that is should i go sealed or ported? im looking more towards spl then sq any advice will be very appreciated. im taking my time putting this setup in so its done right and not just thrown together like my last one

yo man i've been running cpu power supplys to run amps and subs in my room for years and never had a problem or fried anything. its simple but just a home stereo reciever or a surround sound reciever works great too. hell at the moment i have 2 shitty 10's 1 hooked to my surround sound and the other ran off of a fosgate amp & a cpu p. supply. the amp rcas run to aux output and the aux in ran to my laptop.

got any cheaper amps bigrank? i've been lookin at crunch pzi's and some audiopipe. but im open to new ideas especially from someone that knows there stuf i ffound the owners manual on RF 's site and got the specs and measurements for what they recomend. i just dont like the 4 round ports they say to use and dont know the math for for all that to change it

thanx....i was thinkin hifonics too since its brand new.....unless someone might have a sundown or AQ they might give a good deal on about how many cubic feet should i make the box? and probably tune it in the low to mid 30's

so i traded my pair of treo te 15's dual4ohms that i have beatin within an inch of there lives for a 2 week old fosgate t2 12 dual 2ohm that aint even broke in . but i got just the sub cause he didnt wanna come off his enclosure he paid $400 for so i gotta build an enclosure. so did i make an ok trade? this beast weighs as much as both 15's did in the box

first off go ahead keep hatin im a big boy i can take it...... the treos were close to blown is y i did it, also cause fosgate is easier to sell then treo cause treo isnt a "big time" brand i could have taken a little time and reglued the dust cap but said f it and got the ps3 ill save up and start fresh on a better system

umm srry but no i dont need english classes. just cause i dont use punctuation and i shorten my words doesnt mean i dont know the proper way.... the dustcap was seperating from the cone and made this hellacious rattle. so i traded it to the first dumba$$ that offered sumthin good.

im from okc and this is where the company is dd subs are really nice and i hear the amps are top notch too....

haha well i aint gotta worry bout building a box cause im tradin it for a 80gig ps3 with all kinds of stuff with it

the amp it self tells me how many amps its pullin and puttin it in my car is pointless my alt is going bad thats y my treo 15's are setting in my bedroom but yeah works perfect sounds great still looks brand new can anyone tell me bout this soundstream sa 164?

i got a soundstream sa-164 a cpl months back its in mint cond. was it worth the $40? also what yr were these made also i recently traded a pair of 6x9 boxes for a brand new alpine mrd-m300 v12 i like how it tell u the volts, current ,an temp. i have it hooked to a pc power supply in my room and it will jump up to about 11.0 amps before it shuts off the power supply. my alt. in my car is bad so i havent tried it in there yet. now my ? is can anyone tell me the average amps it might pull at 14.4v? thanx in avance

it puts out 300wrms at 2ohm it is only 2 ohm stable im just wondering what amps average it might pull in a car instea of a pc psu

sorry i didnt fully read ur post there was 2 much excess bullshit being posted bout dmm's but yeah he has the cap i learned already caps are a waste the big 3 is better .... yes we adjusted the gain and it didnt come close to sounding the same..... electrical is the problem tonite once i turned my head lights on my p.o.s tens werent hittin the same and when i hit the brakes my lights would dim and my stereo would dim and shut off so i think its time for a big boy alternator and battery

what do ya'll think? i have a pioneer deh-p3500 and the s/w outputs only put out 2v ......my uncles jvc arsenal h/u puts out 4v ........the same system swapped from my car to his but running on his h/u packs alot more punch and sounds better...........so instead of spending money i dont have on a h/u on the same level as his ive been looking into line drivers cause they arent so pricey ......but i recall several years ago my cuzzin had one and it ended up frying his amp.......so are line drivers a good idea? if so wut brands are good but cheap...and...how many volt output one should i get?

wow lots of topic replies but thanx to whom gave there comments on the question the system is 2 of the new 1200 watt kenwood 12's in a sealed box powered by new kenwood amp 1800w rms w/ cheap walmart cap. 1 system just swapped into other car the cars... my uncles-- 96 nissan 240sx --stock alternator---with 8gauge power wire---jvc arsenal h/u mine-- 76 chevy caprice---stock alt.---4ga power wire---big 3---pioneer deh-p3500---trunk not completly sealed now ....he said his h/u is wut makes the most difference because his 4v preouts and his multiple sub settings...i am just wondering if getting a small line driver (found an audiopipe one for 30 bucks) if it will give my system that boost his h/u gives the system...... and i know that my car has alot more space then his but its not just a size or placement sound difference its a serious difference so line driver = better/more amp sound output yes or no?

anyone ever use these? i got 2 digital audio a15of 10's there 700wrms i traded a sony head unit for them this is the only link i can find http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Digital-Audio-DA8010X-10-Excursion-Subwoofer-700-W_W0QQitemZ200410700230QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item2ea96899c6

i have a p.o.s legacy 2400 x 2 and yes id rather ad these in inthe sealed box i got just for low bass cause my 15's box is tuned to high and id rather use something i already have rather than spending money i cant afford to spend on wood ,screws, etc .......i got themin thebox and running on my lil soundstream hooked to my laptop in my roomand they sound pretty damngood imma throw themin my backseat and see how much they add

i traded a crappy head unit 4 two of them already i got them hooked up free air face down on my bed powered by my lil blue soundstream sa 164 and they sound pretty damn good and get alot of excurssion and bounce around on the bed when i play bass i love you. imma try and get a sealed box today for them and put them in my car too and see if they help my need for low bass so i dont have to build a new box for my 15's .ill try and get a vid once i get them goin and post it up............what i wonder is if they can really handle 700rms if so they can take mor than my treo's so my buddy has 2 infinity 12's dunno wut series and a hifonics 300 x 2 with a cheap dual hu from wal mart and it kinda depressed me lol cuz my subs handle more rms than him more amp power a better head unit and my big 3 upgrade and he just makes me sound like i got nothin is it his amp quality? or the fact that i got a rusty trunk and im losin sound pressure thru the rust holes?

ok so i have 2 treo te 15's in a ported box it hits real hard on high bass notes sounds ok on mid notes but sounds like garbage on low notes wut should i do? smaller port? smaller sealed box? i sealed this box one day it hit great on lows but not worth a shit on mid notes or high notes btw my music of choice is rap/hiphop and occasionally some heavy metal

so is there a way to tune this box lower?

ok so i found a tape measure and the measurements are 18 1/2" deep 39" wide the port measured 6" wide 15"Tall an the port wall runs 12" deep the displacement of the subs is 0.110 ft3 i've been thinking bout it alot without having to get or build a new box and was thinking of maybe putting a piece of mdf down the center of the port making it 2 seperate chambers or seal both side of the port by putting mdf from the port wall to the back wall of the box making it to sealed chambers with less air space.....but havent yet cause i dont wanna waste my time so thats why i ask here and the specs from treo's site for ported is 2.15 cu ft net 20 sq in vent 12.75in long f3=30.6. is my box even close? i dont know the math im just tryin to add some low bass but not lose much of the high and mid bass it has

ok so i drive a 76' caprice with 2 treo 15's and my trunk lid is 2 seperate layers ....over the years the two layers dont stick together anymore which causes it to rattle ,sometimes louder than the bass and was just wondering if anyone could give me tips to fix this problem without weighing the lid down where it wont stay open on its own. my first thought was the canned foam stuff that expands but thats alot to fill also my cousin works for a glass company and he gaqve me a cpl rolls of that gooey black shit that seals windshields i just cant it very far into the lid. anyone got better ideas?

then yes its rattles cause the two layers hitting together

its about 38" wide 16" tall and 20" deep and the port is 6" wide and i have no clue what its tuned at and those are outer measurements

not tryin to sound like a prick but wuts the difference between rattles and vibrations? vibration is what causes the trunk lid to flex and the flex causes the rattles from the 2 layers smacking together.......I AM A try some foam cause its cheap an to the other dude when u faced your subs towards the seat did it make it louder inside the car? ive been pondering on rotatin em but its to much work to unbolt the box from the trunk floor im wantin to turn the around also cause there only like an inch between the box and top of the trunk and theres only like 4 inches on each side of the box and i think thats killing alot of my sound from gettin into the cab any one think this would help?