Don Ganso

Like Miller said, He buys them burned up and gets them sent to him, he repairs them then shipped to you. It only took about 3-4 days for my saz-3000d then 3-4 days shipping. If he buys them burned up then sends them to him, then how does he know how many refurbished amps are available? Does he keep track with sundown or is he the exclusive guy that sundown deals with?

Quite a feat dude. Great job... I'll be watching

Sub up works pretty solid in my wagon, and I saw sub up working for a dude with a camaro on the audioque site, but I guess I should do more testing lol. I suppose there are a thousand "almost right" combinations and that one elusive "best fit".

Is there any golden rule to follow to get the best installation in a particular vehicle or is it just lots and lots of testing? I have heard sub up and port back in SUVs and wagons, but not really anything else.

Is there any golden rule to follow to get the best installation in a particular vehicle or is it just lots and lots of testing?

I want to set up my new, (refurbished actually but it's new to me) Sundown SAZ-1000D right, so I need some legit test tones. First question: What tones do I need? I know I'm looking for a 50Hz tone to set the gain, but is that a "50Hz sine wave" or "50Hz mono-tone"? I've seen both, so I'm confused. Square waves? Sine waves? I have a very loose grasp on these things, but I think that a square wave=clipping and a sine wave shows the maximum gain setting before clipping... I'm so confused... What other tones do I need, if any? Second question: On that pinned thread on how to set your gains under amp/head units main section, it gives two links for tones to download, and how to use them. However, one link, (at least when I tried, I could just be a retard), did not work and the other is for setting computer speakers, (it just had quicktime links and I couldn't seem to decipher how to download them). I know shizzzon has a link for tones, but when I downloaded some of those, I couldn't get them on media player and onto a CD. Tried local audio shop and even Best Buy but no one around me sells tone CDs. Where can I get me some tones? For setup info, please check signature.

what are the specs on the box it is in right now? What are you gonna put it in?

Seems to be an impossible spec to find, and I couldn't see any inline fuses on the original wire. I'll check again, but is there some math I can do? Is it 5-10% less? I apologize, actually you fuse to the wire and not your alternator size. You dont have to fuse if you dont want to, it is there to protect the wire in case it shorts or comes loose. I'll try 60A and check the fuse frequently... If it doesn't blow in a week or two I'd say we're good.

Here is the tech/how-to link that on here that I will refer to later: Big 3 How-to I did the big 3 today in my car, (see sig for equipment/etc.), and I noticed something odd, (to me). A week or two before I actually did the upgrade, I had checked my voltage with a DMM for shiggles up front and on the amp. 12.5. Today after the upgrade, the voltage was 14.4ish, (moved around a little; no more than a tenth of a volt), front and back on amp. Both readings were taken with the car idling. This is good right? This was supposed to happen? Another question; on the link it says to fuse the alternator to battery positive wire with a fuse the same size as the factory fuse. I have no idea what the factory fuse size is, (it seems to be an impossible spec to find), so I got a 30amp fuse with a holder. Here's the catch: the wire on the fuse holder is 12 gauge. Basically it is about three inches of wire, fuse holder, another three inches. Connect that to the battery on one end and 1/0 gauge on the other and you have the idea; is this o.k? I think because the wire is so short it can carry enough current or whatever, I don't know... Any ideas? Am I all good here? Also, after the big 3, I still have dimming. I never have had dimming headlights, but I have had one green LED around the volume nob on my receiver flash with the bass forever, but I know it is not some weird feature... What's up with this?

Seems to be an impossible spec to find, and I couldn't see any inline fuses on the original wire. I'll check again, but is there some math I can do? Is it 5-10% less?

Wait, do you mean 5-10% less amps? If I use a 100 amp fuse on an 85 amp alt, wouldn't that be the same as running a straight wire? The alt would never put out enough power to blow the fuse, so the fuse would be worthless...

Either way, it looks good man. Great job on this!

You say port is 29.75" deep, but then that the length is 15.25"... I'm confused... If you measure from port opening to the end of the port, how long is it? 29.75 I'm guessing but I'm not sure. And also, as far as I know you are using a double baffle for sub-side and no additional bracing, correct?

What kind of amp will you be using?

bump

Alright, thank you very much.

Oh no, I wasn't saying that about audiopipe, I was talking about buying used on a forum I don't belong to from someone I don't know. Buying used on the internet is fine if it is something like db-r... I know ebay stands behind you if you get ripped off too, but person to person I just don't know. Audiopipe is fine though.

Friend needs system. Approx. $450 to spend on sub(s) and amp(s) Goals: Loud daily, but is not concerned about front stage, just wants lots of bass Vehicle: 1998 Chevy Venture, (will remove back row if need be to fit box depending on setup) Electrical: Stock except for big 3 I have thought about a couple different options, and was wondering who, if anyone, has had experience with the Audioque SD2.5 subs... Can get 2 15s for $280 and then an AQ-1200D for power... Open to any and all suggestions. Need more info? Let me know.

I'm concerned about buying an amp in "excellent condition" to find that it looks like someone opened it up, threw a hand grenade inside, then put the top back on.

Yeah the are wire gauge specific, what ever fits is what you use (not to sound like an ass). They are like amp terminals, just cause it has a 1/0 awg opening doesnt mean you have to put 1/0 awg wire in it. I have a scosche efx 60A fuse holder that came on the 8 awg power wire from the wiring kit for my old setup. It has a rubber grommet covering the opening where the wire attaches to the fuse holder. Do you think that I might take off the grommet and trim the 1/0 a little so it fit?

so your telling me that i could get 3 ssds on 1 1ohm amp and be safe and not blow the amp are speakers i was always told to run even loads. People run 3 sub setups all the time, and you usually end up with an uneven load, (unless the speakers have a high enough impedence rating to start with), I think. Either way you should be good. What did you think was going to happen if you wired up those audioques? That would have been a funky load but it would have worked. what you mean when i wired up the audioques? I was under the impression that you were already using them...

x2 You could build a new enclosure, but if you are really dead set against it you can a.) drop the money for the SSDs or Icons b.) talk to one of the custom fabricators on the forum to have them build a box for you

so your telling me that i could get 3 ssds on 1 1ohm amp and be safe and not blow the amp are speakers i was always told to run even loads. People run 3 sub setups all the time, and you usually end up with an uneven load, (unless the speakers have a high enough impedence rating to start with), I think. Either way you should be good. What did you think was going to happen if you wired up those audioques? That would have been a funky load but it would have worked.

I don't know what ohm model you have for your ssds but I think you'd end up running them at 1.3 something if they are dual 1s... I'm probably wrong, but either way x2 uneven ohm load doesn't matter, you're not at always exactly 1 ohm or 2 ohms or whatever.

Still, kickers have a set subsonic filter so you gotta be careful how you tune the enclosure you put the subs in. If you want more power or something, use that money to scoop up a sundown... Maybe a SAZ-2000D or a 3500 even if you feel like dropping the bucks to drop some serious bass-producing power in your ride.