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Outbacksound

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Everything posted by Outbacksound

  1. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    Would a DD 9518 on a RF T15001-bd be ok as a daily driver? Don't care much about SQ, just wondering if this sub can take hours of daily pounding. And also, off topic but is port area separate from internal box volume?
  2. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    Well now I'm wondering if I should build a ported box for my current 1252w's and use the infrasonic filter on my amp to help protect them. I'll lose some sq, but I'd have big lows and lord knows it'll be louder. The type r's are almost half off on crutchfield, which is why I'm even considering them.
  3. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    I'm allright doing the install. I've gone through 3 systems, just changing them out because I wanted to go louder. I don have an oscilloscope so I turn the headunit up to almost max, and turn the gain up until distortion, then back it off. My only question left in 12's vs. an 18 is which is pronounce lows better? At this point I'm almost over loud only, and to hear deep, thundering lows would be nice.
  4. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    My object is to go loud, but not sacrifice ALL sq. So technically four 12's at 18 mm xmax will push more air than one 18 with 31 mm. But I hear that there is no sq with the type r's. Anyone like type r's?
  5. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    Crutchfield has a sale on type r 12's, only 110 a piece. Would four of those on 1250 rms be a better system than one fully powered 18 like the dd 9518 or xcon 18?
  6. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    It's going in a station wagon (for now). Building a new box is not a problem when I get a different car. The xcon sounds like the smarter choice for sure, after all I don't need to go deaf from innacurate, sloppy, high priced bass. Would the sub see close to full power on a burp?
  7. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    Sorry about asking without looking. The Xcon 18 is really affordable, but will it be able to take 1836 watts, even though it's rated for 1750? 1836 is what came on the birth sheet for my T15001-bd at 1 ohm. And I still would like to know if facing subs up has consequences. Thanks
  8. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    How much does the xcon 18 run for? Do I just need to call?
  9. Outbacksound

    DD 9518 daily driver?

    Thanks. I'll take a look around. Another thing is that I have subs facing up right now, and if I'm going to have such a big sub/box, I would want it to face up so my rolling cover can hide it. Are there negatives to having subs face up, like cone sag or something?
  10. Outbacksound

    Doubling amp power

    Well, I need to fix the overheating a) so I can sell it for a decent price and b) so I can have some more time to save money. I do want a new car- this thing isn't me, just a beater to get around, but I'm sick of it. The saving begins now, and I'll do cheap fixes for the electrcal, or just keep it turned down. Thanks for all the advice and helping me realize what's important- my car, not the sound system.
  11. Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended up being many questions in one post.
  12. Outbacksound

    Doubling amp power

    I listened to the stereo a handfull of times with the car off. Most of the time I would drive for 20 min. To a 1/2 hour after doing so to let the battey charge. My car is putting out full power, so it must be a faulty ground (or many) that wouldn't cause a complete circuit, right? I'm definately not getting a new amp right now. This car is a piece, and I have to put the money towards an overheating problem which I have already invested into, but that's another post for another forum. I'm going to have a mechanic friend help me with the overheating, and I'll show him the lights while I'm at it. Are there main grounds other than the two I replaced from the big three, like headlight, brake light, any other grounds that need to be looked at? As far as the alt. dying, I charged the battery out of the car with a trickle charger (for car batteries), and started the car with the battery fully charged. The alt. and battery light came on, so off to auto zone it was. My alt. failed the test immediately (I watched). I thought it was strange too. The car is 13-14 years old though, and I doubt it ever had any love from the two prior owners, so things need replacing. I'd rather get a different car, but it's going to take a lot of saving for that. Though it's starting to seem worth it.
  13. Outbacksound

    Doubling amp power

    I just replaced my battery and alternator at autozone. I killed them together by listening to the system (quietly) with the car off. Next day, car wouldn't start, so I took the battery to autozone, they charged it, said it was bad, battery light was still on, ran the alt. test and was putting out 12.5v with the car running. Not good. So, I replaced them. I had dimming lights before they were replaced too. I took a DMM to my battery the other day, and had a full 14.4v at idle, system on and loud, dropping to ~13.8-14v, so that was okay, but the lights on and the system going was about 13.5v, should still be okay, but lights dim. My stock alt. Is an 85 amp, pretty weak. It's a Subaru outback (go ahead and laugh, because it's funny). I replaced the battery/frame and engine/frame grounds w/ 2AWG wire, scraped away paint on the body for the battery ground, and I had a 1AWG wre running from my old alt to my battery, but it didn't help the lights, and was such a thick terminal end I could only get the nut on the alt. post about one turn, which sucked, so I took that off. That's where my problem lies, isn't it? The alt. can't let enough current through to the battery because of the puny positive wires to the battery. My alt's wires go to the main fuse box, and then go to the battery, so I just add on to the existing wiring, right? Fuse the power wire, so I don't short my battery, and see what happens. So I should definately fix the dimming before moving on to a bigger amp. Would the 3dB's be worth it? Would the subs "hit harder"? Sorry for the long @ss post.
  14. Outbacksound

    2-15" xcons box help

    I (had) 4 RF P1S412's, not great, but they were in 1.805 ft.^3 each, and I had it tuned to 29 Hz. Lots of SQ, and could also get loud. Ran them on 150 RMS a piece, and I was very happy. Bought 4 1252w's, and ran them sealed. Not happy with output, gonna build a ported box, but I'll probably have to build a slot/vented box, because I wouldn't be able to fit the precision ports, even with elbows. As for using more than one port, go to carstereo.com I think. There's a port length calc that will give you answers about the same as this formula.
  15. Outbacksound

    2-15" xcons box help

    To find the overall aeroport length, here's a formula from precision ports 8466.4R^2 ---------------- -1.463R = Lv (Vb)Fb^2 Lv= port length in inches Vb= volume of box in ft.^3 Fb= tuning frequency R= radius of port (1/2 of diameter) Should be placed at least one port diameter away from any inside walls, if possible. Trim center tube 5" shorter than Lv from formula. Once assembled, the port should be 1" longer than Lv. Plug your numbers into the formula, and it will tell you how long your ports need to be, and should help you decide which port you can fit. Also be aware that the flared end of the port is HUGE on the 6" version, so the proper amount of mounting space would be needed. I used the 3" precision ports, and I love the way my ported box sounds. They were on parts-express.com. If you don't like the textured front, you could sand it off and hit it with some spray paint (tape off the inside of the port to prevent overspray). Hope this will be of some use to you.
  16. Outbacksound

    Four sub wiring

    They sound great now. I wasn't pushing them hard at all- I'm still letting them break in. I can't wait until I put them to a real amp, and (maybe) a ported box.
  17. Is it possible to wire four 4 ohm dvc subs to a 2 channel amp, with each channel seeing 2 ohms? I have them running at four ohms, but can you use series and parallel wiring to create this load? If I set each sub in parallel wiring (+ to + and - to -, right?)and then run the - from one channel to one sub, the positive from that channel to the other sub, and a wire connecting the other + and - terminals from sub to sub, would this do it? Here's what I'm talking about. (pic may not work) Just hooked up these subs, but they sound distorted and just terrible, will they sound better after they break in, or just lower/louder? Replaced 4 RF P1 12's with 4 infinity 1252w's, and I miss the rockfords. IMG_1109.PNG
  18. Outbacksound

    Four sub wiring

    One channel was wired out of phase. I feel like such a dumbass. Did I do any harm to them?
  19. Outbacksound

    Four sub wiring

    How would you wire 2 dual 4 ohm subs to 16 ohms? I don't want to do that, I just want to eliminate that as a possibility of what is wrong. These subs hardly make any noise, when they should at least be audible above the speakers, especially because I turned the sub up to 10 (max) just to see if I could hear them, and only some of the high notes were audible. Checked the wiring, and they're all wired the way crutchfield and the12volt site (here checked for two subs to see what one channel sees, because they don't have an option for a two channel amp) said to. Voice coils wired in series, subs wired in parallel. If I wire the vc's in parallel, and the subs in parallel, what will happen? Vc's in parallel and subs in series?
  20. Outbacksound

    Four sub wiring

    I think I might have wired my subs at 16 ohms, so they're barely getting any power- I wired them according to crutchfield's four sub, 2 channel dual 4 ohm voice coil chart, but according to KU40, if I wired them like I mentioned in an earlier post, then they would make a four ohm load at the amp. I am confused.
  21. Outbacksound

    Four sub wiring

    The amp is a piece of s**t Xplod XM-1652Z that (I think) puts out 240-280 watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 390 watts per channel at 2 ohms. I don't think it can go at 2 ohms bridged, it's a piece, as mentioned. I'm going to be getting a kenwood excelon amp that'll do 1200 watts at 2 ohms, which will be perfect. I was just hoping to get 2 ohms out of this amp, but I kind of knew I couldn't. The gain is a little less than 3/4 of the way up, I turned it up and down until it sounded best. But even with the power I have, I've heard a visonik pos 10" on it's tiny amp, and that was louder. Something is wrong with this setup. Unless they will sound quiet and distorted during the break in period. I'm going from the RF's ported to these sealed, so these should have better SQ, but it's quite the opposite. Also, the rockfords practically ruined my car, and these won't even shake my mirrors a little, despite the fact that they are moving just as much as the RF's did. I am going easy on them at half volume, but even at the same volume the rockfords were 5x better SQ-wise and SPL-wise. Should I keep breaking them in and hope they loosen up, or give up, sell them and just put me old subs back? Or should I port these, and tune really low (the RF's were tuned to 29 Hz, which I liked better than 36 and 32Hz).
  22. Outbacksound

    Foam sub box lining affecting tuning?

    Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Would a 1/2lb. per cu. ft. be enough, or you just have to play with it until it sounds best?
  23. I have 4 RF Punch Stage 1's (I know they suck, temporary until I can get more money). I just lined the inside of my box with mattress padding (cheapo, I know). Before I put the foam in the box was tuned to 29 Hz. Did the airspace the foam took up make my box smaller? I built the box with 4 separate chambers, each one being 1.805 cu. ft., which is slightly larger than the recommended 1.79 cu. ft. per sub. So is the box smaller now and have a different tuning? Also, is fast double bass bad for these subs? I have them on a horrible Xplod amp wired at 2 ohms ~600 rms. They sound good, but I know I'll be getting something else asap.
  24. Outbacksound

    Foam sub box lining affecting tuning?

    Thanks guys, good things to know. Yeah I remeber reading about how the amps convert the analog signal to digital and back, kind of forgot about that. I don't think I'll hear the fan over these subs, so I should be good Another thing, is it ok to have the speaker wire connections on the back of the terminal cup buried by polyfil, or is that a potential fire hazard? I'd run the wires to the top of the box, so they wouldn't rest in the polyfil, but that won't look as clean.
  25. Outbacksound

    Foam sub box lining affecting tuning?

    It says it is a class D amp. What's the difference between class d and ab? Like you said, a d will be lees strain on my electrical system, but is that the only difference?
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