Outbacksound

It means the alternator was dead. My car was basically an R/C car, running solely on the battery. Once the car is started, the car should be using the electricity produced by the alternator to run everything; spark plugs, lights, anything electrical. While the car was running it was producing as much voltage as when it should be off. It should have been 14-14.4 volts when running, so that determined the alt. was dead.

I used a multimeter a few days ago. The battey had 12.75 volts with the car off and 14.4 volts with the car running. I then had someone turn on the lights and the voltage went down to 14, and with the fog lights on it whent down to 13.8. With the brake pedal pressed, it went down to 13.5. However, after turning off the lights and releasing the brake, it stayed at ~13.8v. I just replaced the alt. and the battery about a month ago. The car was overheating every couple days, and I would pull over and put water in the radiator because coolant was flowing out of the resoivoir pressure hole. One night it started to rise when I was a 1/4 mile from my house, so I thought I could make it home. The second I pulled into my street, the car stopped. Engine kept running, but RPM went to 0, all my dash lights came on, and boiling coolant smoke poured out from under the hood. An hour later I turned it over, and it started up fine, but the battery and emergency brake light stayed lit. After a few days, my car was turning over slowly, so I got the battery tested at autozone, and they said it was no good. With the battery replaced, my battery light on my dash, as well as the e-brake light, were both still on. Tested the load at autozone and the alt. wasn't doing anything. Had about 12.5v with the car running. So both were replaced the same day. Could they, or at least the alt. be going allready?

Sorry. I have a new 85 amp alternator (stock size), a new duralast battery (both failed at the same time). Stereo equipment: RF Punch P1S412 (4) Sony CDX-GT32W (deck) Sony Xplod XM-1652Z (amp) Sony Xplod XS-R1643 (speakers) 2&4 gauge wire run throughout 60 amp inline fuse to amp I know this junk is the worst walmart stuff I could have in my car, which is the worst car I could have (1996 Subaru Legacy Outback), but I have bills and I can only save 50-100 bucks a week towards things. I don't care to hear it's the worst stereo ever because I allready know that. My question is why do my lights dim when I just press the brake or roll up a (power) window? With no stereo on or anything else electrical? Should I get a yellow top deep cycle battery? Or am I gonna have to shell out the $300 for a HO alt.? I replaced the factory grounds from the battery to the frame and from the engine to the chassis with 2 gauge wire, and covered terminal ends with dielectric grease. I had a 1 gauge wire running from my alt. to my battery, but it didn't help at all, and I could only put the screw on the alt. post about 3/4 to one turn, so I removed that. At this point, it's an electrical problem with grounds somewhere, or my system is killing my battery and alt. again. I know caps are only band-aids to the system but would one help? Or are they a complete waste of money?

I put it in the box to lower distortion and try to increase bass response. It sounds better, but I think I lost some output because I have to turn the sub level up in order for it to sound the same as it did before. Do you think it wasn't neccessary? There's less distortion. I did the big three but my lights still dim badly. Do I need a bigger alternator? My lights dim even when I hit the brakes with no system on or anything else i.e. heated seats, mirrors, heat, a/c, whatever. Do I have a bad ground somewhere?