Outbacksound

Well now I'm wondering if I should build a ported box for my current 1252w's and use the infrasonic filter on my amp to help protect them. I'll lose some sq, but I'd have big lows and lord knows it'll be louder. The type r's are almost half off on crutchfield, which is why I'm even considering them.

I'm allright doing the install. I've gone through 3 systems, just changing them out because I wanted to go louder. I don have an oscilloscope so I turn the headunit up to almost max, and turn the gain up until distortion, then back it off. My only question left in 12's vs. an 18 is which is pronounce lows better? At this point I'm almost over loud only, and to hear deep, thundering lows would be nice.

My object is to go loud, but not sacrifice ALL sq. So technically four 12's at 18 mm xmax will push more air than one 18 with 31 mm. But I hear that there is no sq with the type r's. Anyone like type r's?

Crutchfield has a sale on type r 12's, only 110 a piece. Would four of those on 1250 rms be a better system than one fully powered 18 like the dd 9518 or xcon 18?

It's going in a station wagon (for now). Building a new box is not a problem when I get a different car. The xcon sounds like the smarter choice for sure, after all I don't need to go deaf from innacurate, sloppy, high priced bass. Would the sub see close to full power on a burp?

Sorry about asking without looking. The Xcon 18 is really affordable, but will it be able to take 1836 watts, even though it's rated for 1750? 1836 is what came on the birth sheet for my T15001-bd at 1 ohm. And I still would like to know if facing subs up has consequences. Thanks

How much does the xcon 18 run for? Do I just need to call?

Thanks. I'll take a look around. Another thing is that I have subs facing up right now, and if I'm going to have such a big sub/box, I would want it to face up so my rolling cover can hide it. Are there negatives to having subs face up, like cone sag or something?

Would a DD 9518 on a RF T15001-bd be ok as a daily driver? Don't care much about SQ, just wondering if this sub can take hours of daily pounding. And also, off topic but is port area separate from internal box volume?

Well, I need to fix the overheating a) so I can sell it for a decent price and b) so I can have some more time to save money. I do want a new car- this thing isn't me, just a beater to get around, but I'm sick of it. The saving begins now, and I'll do cheap fixes for the electrcal, or just keep it turned down. Thanks for all the advice and helping me realize what's important- my car, not the sound system.

I listened to the stereo a handfull of times with the car off. Most of the time I would drive for 20 min. To a 1/2 hour after doing so to let the battey charge. My car is putting out full power, so it must be a faulty ground (or many) that wouldn't cause a complete circuit, right? I'm definately not getting a new amp right now. This car is a piece, and I have to put the money towards an overheating problem which I have already invested into, but that's another post for another forum. I'm going to have a mechanic friend help me with the overheating, and I'll show him the lights while I'm at it. Are there main grounds other than the two I replaced from the big three, like headlight, brake light, any other grounds that need to be looked at? As far as the alt. dying, I charged the battery out of the car with a trickle charger (for car batteries), and started the car with the battery fully charged. The alt. and battery light came on, so off to auto zone it was. My alt. failed the test immediately (I watched). I thought it was strange too. The car is 13-14 years old though, and I doubt it ever had any love from the two prior owners, so things need replacing. I'd rather get a different car, but it's going to take a lot of saving for that. Though it's starting to seem worth it.

I just replaced my battery and alternator at autozone. I killed them together by listening to the system (quietly) with the car off. Next day, car wouldn't start, so I took the battery to autozone, they charged it, said it was bad, battery light was still on, ran the alt. test and was putting out 12.5v with the car running. Not good. So, I replaced them. I had dimming lights before they were replaced too. I took a DMM to my battery the other day, and had a full 14.4v at idle, system on and loud, dropping to ~13.8-14v, so that was okay, but the lights on and the system going was about 13.5v, should still be okay, but lights dim. My stock alt. Is an 85 amp, pretty weak. It's a Subaru outback (go ahead and laugh, because it's funny). I replaced the battery/frame and engine/frame grounds w/ 2AWG wire, scraped away paint on the body for the battery ground, and I had a 1AWG wre running from my old alt to my battery, but it didn't help the lights, and was such a thick terminal end I could only get the nut on the alt. post about one turn, which sucked, so I took that off. That's where my problem lies, isn't it? The alt. can't let enough current through to the battery because of the puny positive wires to the battery. My alt's wires go to the main fuse box, and then go to the battery, so I just add on to the existing wiring, right? Fuse the power wire, so I don't short my battery, and see what happens. So I should definately fix the dimming before moving on to a bigger amp. Would the 3dB's be worth it? Would the subs "hit harder"? Sorry for the long @ss post.

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended up being many questions in one post.

I (had) 4 RF P1S412's, not great, but they were in 1.805 ft.^3 each, and I had it tuned to 29 Hz. Lots of SQ, and could also get loud. Ran them on 150 RMS a piece, and I was very happy. Bought 4 1252w's, and ran them sealed. Not happy with output, gonna build a ported box, but I'll probably have to build a slot/vented box, because I wouldn't be able to fit the precision ports, even with elbows. As for using more than one port, go to carstereo.com I think. There's a port length calc that will give you answers about the same as this formula.

To find the overall aeroport length, here's a formula from precision ports 8466.4R^2 ---------------- -1.463R = Lv (Vb)Fb^2 Lv= port length in inches Vb= volume of box in ft.^3 Fb= tuning frequency R= radius of port (1/2 of diameter) Should be placed at least one port diameter away from any inside walls, if possible. Trim center tube 5" shorter than Lv from formula. Once assembled, the port should be 1" longer than Lv. Plug your numbers into the formula, and it will tell you how long your ports need to be, and should help you decide which port you can fit. Also be aware that the flared end of the port is HUGE on the 6" version, so the proper amount of mounting space would be needed. I used the 3" precision ports, and I love the way my ported box sounds. They were on parts-express.com. If you don't like the textured front, you could sand it off and hit it with some spray paint (tape off the inside of the port to prevent overspray). Hope this will be of some use to you.