Typicaljawaiian

Yeah, I'm so happy right now, NOT! Anyway, I'm in my car with the beats going pretty good and all of a sudden the bass cuts out. I pop the trunk and run back to see WTF. My amp is on, it's not in protect, voltage is good, I'm f**kin clueless. Then as I'm about to stab the f**ckin sub it turns back on. Again, WTF. Then it doesn't exactly cut out but it plays at like 25% volume for a little while then comes back on then goes back to 25% vol. I go to the head unit, turn the volume down and after a while it seems to play normal. I wait and eventually turn the volume up again and presto! The mindf**ck starts all over again. Can a sub blow with no signs of it getting hot (smell, touch, etc)? Can a square wave kill a sub before signs of thermal damage are present? What would cause a sub to cut out, then come back on at 25%, then when the HU volume is turned down it seems to be alright. As soon as HU vol. Is turned up it all repeats? If I set my gain w/ a Oscilloscope would there be less chance of this happening. It's got to be Gain/Bass Knob. When I went to my local shop to set the gain they said they ONLY do it by ear. I felt like they thought I was a joke, wanting to use an O-Scope. F**k that! I just want to do s**t right. The reason for getting into so much detail and for sounding like I posted this stuff twice, is because this is the second time it's happened to me. I take responsibility, but just want to know what to do so it doesn't happen again. Or at least make the chances of it happening a little bit smaller. Sub - 15" Fi BL full loaded. Amp - JL Audio 1000/1 Please, I need professional help!!! These recones are getting expensive!!

hey whats up, I am learning about enclosure design and tuning and was wondering about two terms "imp rise" and "unloading". I breezed through a thread on imp rise and got some very good information. Its the unloading part that im not to clear on. I have a 15" Fi BL Loaded and think that I have damaged it due to unloading (I think). My question is how does it affect the subwoofer, what kind of damage can this do, can a recone kit fix the sub if broken due to unloading. I was having problems where my sub would cut out then cut back in for some reason as I was playing low frequencies. The amp was not clipping or going into protect as I could see all the LED's while this was happening. So again the sub would kind of fade out at low frequencies then after a while start hitting again. I was beating on it yesterday and the problem started. I waited till I got home to see if would start playing again and it wouldn't. I just tried before getting online and nothing. I took the sub out of the box and tried each coil seperately still nothing. Anyone have any ideas as to what happened. Can you burn the voice coils or lock them up by unloading the sub? Im totaly lost on this and dont want it to happen again, need to get educated please help!

Howzit braddah, what island?

"Day 42" Thought this was a P90X thread 42 Day, I know nothing about that

Very Nice Electrical? Box Specs?

Stetsom - Cheaper & smaller...oh yeah, almost forgot, f**ker puts out some power!!!

Kona Brewing Co. FTW!

SMD's can take 3000+.......................CLEAN! I got 1 but planning to get another along w/ a hatchback of some sort. But yeah, 2 15" SMD'$ would be perf

I think the deciding factor is room for the enclosure. 6 - 6.5 after displacements...............TOUGH CALL!!! That's a really good net vol. For an 18" sub. Now two 15's w/ 3.25^3 per MAX........with the right amount of power, yes, I see possibilities there. For me, I'm gonna say......................F**K IT go w/ two 15's. If you don't like it then sell em and switch

P90x yoga is pretty nutz!

How would I go about creating more AC AMPS to go into the sub. I feel this would lower my box rise, true or false? I'm getting high AC Voltage readouts but I feel the AMPS are lacking thus creating a high ohm load. More DC amps going into the Sundown 3000? That's the only thing I can think of. This is a rundown of what I have installed '09 Toyota Yaris Pioneer avh 3100 2 din DVD (4 volt out) Pioneer 3 way 5 1/4's & 6x9's Pioneer 600 x 4 (4 channel amp) AA SMD 15" Sub Sundown saz 3000d DC Power 150/320 amp alt 1 Kinetik HC 1200 (up front) 1 Kinetik Hc 2400 (2.5 ft from the amp) Big 3 w/ extra grounds all in Fosgate 1/0 1 run pos. (~14 ft) front battery to rear batt (Knu 1/0) Rear batt grounded to seat belt bolt (Knu 1/0) 1 run each pos. & neg (~2.5 ft) rear batt to amp (Fosgate 1/0) Three 300 amp fuses - One fuse from (Alt. to hc 1200). Two fuses from (HC 1200 to HC 2400) positive run only! Stinger SVMB (blue) With all that what can I do. Eliminate the fuses? How much power loss do they cause? Just do unfused runs of 1/0? I definitely think w/ this electrical I should be seeing more than 32.66 amps x 87.6 volts (50hz burp)???????????

@ Julian - it's a DC Power 320 amp alternator. Niether MLA or XS Power makes voltage regulators for my vehicle. Gonna see about a smaller pulley tomorrow. Also got a comp on Sunday so I'll be building an SPL box. See what kind of difference that makes

14 volt batts as far as helping @ idle voltage? Sorry

Ahhhhhhhh, wish I knew this 5 days ago. Might have invested my money in different areas. Maybe another alt or one that puts out more at idle Would 14volt batts be an option?

^^^^ Thanks Bro ^^^^ Just figured ac volts divided by ac amps = rise. Was wondering if there was a way to up the amps somehow causing more watts less rise. Kinda made sense to me when I started this topic. Class in session, typicaljawaiian raises his hand in attendance!

:fing34:Ill just start it off w/ this for now. This is about a year ago and I have done many changes since then. I have a ton of pics so ill get them up ASAP whenever I can. I guess in the mean time check out typicaljawaiian808 on YouTube if you wish Pioneer 3100 2 din DVD Amp JL 1000/1 Sub 15" Fi BL fully loaded My Electrical................What a joke (stock alt btw)

Thanks for the pos. feedback all!

You are exactly right my friend!

Im preeeeeeeeeetty sure I would get a rise up to at least 1 ohm? I could see two dual 1's wired to somewhere ~.25 being fatal to the amplifier. Guess i'll just have to test that out myself

Here's a video of the O.G. system (JL 1000/1 & Fi BL). Wait, what.........................whats up w/ that box? Yeah I built like 4 different boxes for that Fi

I started to get serious and read through forum after forum. I kept coming across this one specific word "ELECTRICAL"!!! Did My big 3 in 1/0 (all Fosgate stuff) The Fosgate 1/0 was too much $ to run to the trunk so I went w/ Knukoncepts 1/0 Found a Fosgate dual fuse block and split my big 3 with my amp run like this (two 300 amp fuses) Now getting the power to the trunk Alright, if your wondering why my car is so dirty check this out. Its the 2 mile dirt road to get to my house Now it was time to give the fellaz at DC Power a call DC Power 150/320 amp Alternator That was basically it as far as electrical at the moment, oh wait one more important thing Stinger SVMB (blue)

2800+ watts @ 2.6 ohm is not bad though seeing as the amp is rated for 3000 watt @ 1 ohm I should have got the dual 1 ohm SMD

When I check impedance on individual coils I get 1.4 - 1.5 and when I wired them parallel I got .75 - .8 A lot of responses were to get more batteries.........would this really help? I see a little difference but not much when I went from stock batt to the two Kinetiks. I was hoping for more power at idle. When I clamped the alternator @ idle the most I saw was ~57 amps DC. Voltage was dipping to ~12.3 on tones. Another thing is the alt took a good while to get to the 57 amps it wasnt very quick at "catching up". However at 2000+ rpm the alternator is a BEAST! Should I contact DC Power about a smaller pulley possibly. Im just not to impressed w/ the 1200/2400 combo. As far as getting more batteries, the best I could do would be swap the 1200 for an 1800....... I know you guys are like "throw another 2400 on the left hand side but...............that space is for the wife and two kids belongings lol! Ill try contacting Rob to see if a smaller pulley is possible for my alternator. BTW, excellent and informative responses and I learn new shit everytime I log on to SSA

Sorry again but that's 2861 watts @ 2.68 ohm. So yeah, what options to get the rise down? Different box design? Right now I have 4^3 @31.5hz w/ ~28 inches of port (6"x14" flared PSP Port) I WANNA CRACK 3000 WATTS!!!

Sorry, it's a dual 2 ohm sub wired to .8 ohm