ryan s

One dude on DIYMA likes his in 1.9 sealed (each). You'll need to locate a sub with a Qts around or under .3 for such a small vented box...that's the name of the game, unfortunately, unless you go to a 12".

The W3s don't get super loud with a .5mm Xmax Or just turn the bass down Or add another pair of them... The issues are definitely install related...since I know of a couple people using SLS8s with a 3" fullranger. I'll be doing a 7" myself, but I'll be playing it super high, crossing both outside of the vocal range...think 2kHz...

Already had this one in WinISD so... Even with 2.25 cu ft @ 32Hz, there's a 3dB peak centered at 65Hz...that'll take some serious EQ to get rid of unless you want the super peaky response. Devote that same space to a 2.5 sealed, and you're at the same F3 and a decent Qtc. A 10 cu ft ported box makes a dead flat curve, so this is not a small- or even medium-box sub, which is why I passed on it. I was considering one or two (or the PWE version) for IB, though

I lol'd An hour...those are some low standards Pick the amp that falls into your power and budget goals, being mindful of how much current it draws in relation to your electrical system's potential. Then find the ones that you like looking at, all else being equal in regards to quality

Hmmm...that last part is interesting. For those of us obsessed with our "front stage" one of the goals is to get the sound to appear as if your car doesn't have a windshield or windows...a wide stage, if you will. Kind of like sitting 10 feet from a pair of speakers is infinitely better than sitting 3 inches away. If your amp has enough crossover abilities (high pass filter on channels 1 and 2 at ~80Hz, maybe a low pass around 2Khz...and a high pass on channels 3 and 4 from 2-5Khz...) you can run that amp on on the fronts only...one channel per speaker. I've seen more than one review where people wrote that running without the passive crossover supplied with the speakers changed the character of the tweeters dramatically. Of course...it requires another run of speaker wire for each tweeter to the amp, and an amp which has the correct values of XO points...but short of a new component set, it might be worth a shot. Otherwise, you could use some type of foam over the tweeter to try and tame them. Oh by the way...I wonder how much the doors are at fault for "losing" sound. The MDF baffles need to be sealed so the back waves of the speaker don't conflict with the front waves. Also, I bet you have a huge hole for the window regulator...if that was sealed up, the mid would sound better. The sound definitely seems to be left behind...somewhere...since you're giving them decent power and they're mounted to a good baffle.

If I understand correctly... Sounds like the tweeters are creating early reflections off the dash, the windows, or the door panel. Can you hear "phantom" sounds at certain frequencies? Either reverse the polarity of the tweeters relative to the mids, or move the tweeters elsewhere. Since they're already off-axis...and already EQ'd...your only choices are polarity reversal or placing them more off-axis. My tweeters are mounted coaxially with the mids in the doors. Sound height aside (it's only at neck level or so), the tweeters are aimed dang near directly into the seats. That rotation alone cut down on harshness and apparent beaming 20-fold. As for the dead zone in the car...have you tried running without the rear speakers? Angling the mids won't help a lot, since they barely play in the directional frequencies (~1600Hz) before the tweeters take over...depending on the passive's XO frequency, that is. I think it's due to the fact that the front isn't playing the mids loud enough since you "can't" turn them up relative to the tweeters. Also, can you bridge your amp/run one channel to each driver? That may help due to increased power. The passive XO saps power and add "character" to drivers that may not be desirable.

lol...without sidetracking the thread too far...I spent more on mids than anything All DIY stuff, sales/deals...got my amps for about a quarter or a third of their "street" value... No single thing (or pair of speakers) over $150 I still could have done it MUCH cheaper, but everything I have I want. The subs are meh looking and the sub amp is old and not in an "old school cool" way...but they'll all be hidden for the most part. The other 2 amps are the stars of this show

Came here to research the DCon, then went a bunch of directions in my head...decided on IB with a pair the cheap Infinity 1252w 12s, which are identical to JBL GTOs. Only the Infinity's are $50 each, while the JBLs are ~$80 each. More output than a single 10, less box, less distortion Gave myself $100 sub budget and I'm sticking to it. Well...close to $100.

Who me? Haven't started building yet Need a few more things yet. Going to start on the floor maybe this week. Got all the hard parts I need except stuff like wood, screws, etc. Oh and subs

Then you should read it at least 3 more times as it hasn't even come close to sinking in. Well, lead sheets are better The rest of your post was on target. And yes I realize that price performance of lead make it not so logical to use, so if you replace BEST with most logical we could call it all dead nuts. Works for me Although the improved resistance to small arms fire and radiation with lead would be kinda nice It's akin to asking "I want 400hp but I only have some stuff sitting around and can't buy anything else. Can it be done?" I'm with you on the no money thing, but until you have a car you can do anything to, you don't have many options. That's just how it is With a sucky front setup, you're simply relying on the rears (which I assume are 6x9s) to make midbass in the 80-200Hz area. With a good front setup, you'll never miss the rears. Easy, right? Deadener stops metal panels from vibrating and creating new sounds that aren't intended to be produced. A sound barrier would keep the sound in the car and outside sounds out of the car . Sound absorption will absorb sound in the car (think about those acoustic panels on studio walls). You don't really need the last two, sound deadener alone will make the music in the car sound better. Wait...how do you link to SDS then completely ignore the rest of the info on Don's site? MLV coupled with CCF is the BEST way to block road noise. Deadener alone is not only a waste of time, money, weight, and effort but it's also wrong for everything but vibration dampening. If you're using deadener to block road noise, you're doing it wrong. I think you quoted the wrong post... I might have...someone posted it...I can't remember

They are the brand of batteries he is using. 80lb apiece batteries? Can't imagine how slow my car would be with all that weight in the back I think that all depends where you buy it. Here it's about $27 for a sheet of MDF vs $60 or so for a sheet of nice ply. Big difference, but in my opinion completely worth it. x2, its not like MDF was that much to begin with. I wouldnt mind the upgrade in price compared to how much most companies charge for boxes nowadays it is still a steal. Or do like I'm doing...planning on using 2 1/2" birch ready panels for my IB baffle and a ready panel of 1/4" for the floor. Still $45 or so but strong and light

With a sucky front setup, you're simply relying on the rears (which I assume are 6x9s) to make midbass in the 80-200Hz area. With a good front setup, you'll never miss the rears. Easy, right? Deadener stops metal panels from vibrating and creating new sounds that aren't intended to be produced. A sound barrier would keep the sound in the car and outside sounds out of the car . Sound absorption will absorb sound in the car (think about those acoustic panels on studio walls). You don't really need the last two, sound deadener alone will make the music in the car sound better. Wait...how do you link to SDS then completely ignore the rest of the info on Don's site? MLV coupled with CCF is the BEST way to block road noise. Deadener alone is not only a waste of time, money, weight, and effort but it's also wrong for everything but vibration dampening. If you're using deadener to block road noise, you're doing it wrong.

Duct tape to seal the doors? Wtf is going on here? Would anyone seal their sub box with tape? No? A seal's a seal, right? Notice the sarcasm and rhetoric questions. I'm all about DIYing and doing it better, cheaper, but there's a line where things are either done right or half assed. Duct tape is half assed, as Mr. Donald Duck Tape illustrated

It's lighter, yeah. I'd say for a 3/4" piece of each, the birch probably weighs 3/4 as much as of a piece of MDF. If you're THAT concerned about saving weight, I see a couple areas where you could save tons of weight. That is, not using 596024389423984oz magnets with "bragging rights" power. If you want to use 120lbs worth of subs, saving 20-30lbs on the box ain't much in the grander scheme of things. And what are "nsb90s" and why do they weigh 160lbs? Running 2 normal 15s would save sooooo much weight...even heavy JBL GTi15s weigh like 35lbs each and can't bottom out due to their design. Go to the HDizzle or whatever store is in Canadia and lift a couple ready panels side by side. The 2x4' pieces are easier to lift at once versus 4x8' sheets

So you can hear audible distortion differences in the tenths, hundredths, thousandths, or hundred-thousandths of a percent? Richard Clark has $10,000 waiting for you.

Well here's 8 in just one "series" of amps... HVT7100 - Powered By Kayako eSupport Also strange that all but the 2 4-channels are 1 Ohm stable? (Not intended just for the quote above)...I know that Steve now doesn't like low impedance loads, but he did make them in the past. I'm going to be running my pair of HVTs at 8 ohms so it's not like I need 1 Ohm stable amps...simply an interesting piece of history

TechFlex...

At first, you'll notice there's a little less midbass and less volume without the rear speakers. After about a day, you won't miss them one bit with a good setup in front I've been without rear speakers for a little over 4 years, and the only way I'd go back is if I did a bunch of 2" or 3" mids in the rear deck (that's another topic altogether ). If you're willing to fit an 8 in the door and are using a 3" midrange...do it! I was looking at a pair of Morel CW8s which are very shallow but a bit too wide. Removing about 3/4" of metal around the stock mounting hole in the door would allow them to fit with a 1/2-3/4" spacer...clearing the door panel. The lower Qts is good for a smaller enclosure. The W3s like about .02 cubic feet. My "bowls" they're going into measure only ~.014, but I'm hoping PolyFill plus EQ will level them out. They'll need all the power handling they can get...they don't make the model of amp I'm using any smaller so 100 x 2 at 4 Ohms will have to do

Buy low, sell high It helps immensely to know how much you can get for something when out at a thrift store or browsing Craiglist/ebay. I generally look to make twice what I paid at the absolute minimum. If not, then either keep it for yourself or leave it for someone else to buy. (Edit: The 2x rule is for cheaper stuff, say under $100 purchase price. I'd be ok with spending $200 and selling for $300 ) Of course, you need to be ready to swoop on deals (aka: spend money to make money) and always keep in mind that you're dealing with electronics so you might not have any recourse if what you buy doesn't work. Also be prepared to sit on something if you want a certain price for it. I don't do it professionally or anything (REALLY wish I could)...just on the side. It pretty much pays for this hobby. Gotta love capitalism

Midbass speakers really don't need to be on axis if they're played in the traditional "midbass" frequencies of 63~300Hz. Think about the sub frequencies and how they're loud all over the place. I assume you know this already...I'm just trying to ass-ume that you put your mids in pods so they're louder, being on axis? I know people don't care too much about a pile of parts...but I just got my Usher 8945P mids in today, and I'm going to pair them with the TB W3-1364SA's (aka Bamboos) on the dash, tweeterless, just like you show in the pics...just a tad bit off axis. Fitting the Ushers in the doors is going to be difficult. I had a sadistic laugh when I opened the Usher's box...then curled into the fetal position in my mind just looking at them Plan: -Mids in the doors, 63-2000Hz (maybe 2500...no more) -Midrange on the dash, 2000-2500Hz and up The exact numbers will vary depending on phase issues or EQ issues. I'll bump or dip XO points depending on if the EQ can adjust a given frequency the way I want it to, since the headunit limits me to "global" changes and not L-R. I WAS going to cross the TBs low, around 500Hz so I could low pass the mids around that area too, but decided I didn't want a crossover point in the vocal range...and hoping a higher high pass will let the 3"ers play cleaner into the 12.5Khz+ range where my EQ ends. You'll probably have yours set up before me Just throwing in a couple cents...

Thick as in muddy sound? Check your box tuning and HU settings as well as crossover and bass boost setting if used. The DCON has a very crisp, tight sound to it along with great lowend. Your enclosure and install will be the main factor in any sub install. Sealed box... I cross it at either at 63 or 80Hz, depending on how I feel on a given day It's just the nature of the sub...it's a low-end monster. 400 watts is enough to make it too loud for my tastes, if I crank it. hmmm the dcons..............badass? Now I'm thinking about a JBL GTi Those are some badass looking subs from the back due to the voice coil design. The 10" model actually has a 3" coil.

I'll sell my 10" PG sub for...$200. It has a frequency response of 25-200! Imagine a speaker that could play that low AND that high in only a .7 cu ft enclosure! lol... Advertised "response" stuff like that is ridiculous. My 6.5" components are like 32-23000Hz or something...not going to hit 32Hz, that's for sure

What projectors are you getting? To this day, I'm still pissed about missing a pair of S2Ks for $150. That was almost 4 years ago...

Not going to lie...I use pirated programs. No way, would I ever even consider using a pirated OS if I cared anything at all about that computer's use and contents. I've been using the RC of Win7 since June and I really liked it. My laptop came with Vista Home so you know why I moved to 7 so fast Installed the "Home Upgrade" version of 7 yesterday and it's good so far. My laptop in the exact same place with no router changes now gets 5 bars of WiFi constantly instead of 2-4. Only downsides are 2, related, half caused by Windows, half by ATI. This laptop has a shitty integrated video card, and I previously had ATI Catalyst installed with the RC. Now, it won't go to setup (installs...but no shortcut, no way to configure it) with the Vista/7 version. ATI's fault. Install an older version, and Windows blocks it since it's "For XP" and I don't have Ultimate with XP Mode. Window's fault. So now I'm running the laptop with an uncalibrated monitor and it looks like ass At least my desktop is good for editing photos. Can't wait till ATI fixes that issue.

Anything over 6000k is complete shit. Any drop in kits for lamps with fluted lenses is epic shit. High/low kits are a joke. Casper shields are a joke. Why? Glare. I don't mean to pick on any one person, but the person who showed the second story windows lit up...all that light is going into other drivers' eyes. That's why you get flashed. If anyone says "But I never get flashed!" I can guarantee there are people who want to flash you but are separated by a few lanes or a median or are in front of you. The reflectors can't control over 3x more light output than they were designed for. My headlights have a crazy highbeam section and are perfectly aimed with HIR bulbs in my low beams. Want to see all 4 lit up at the same time? Drive towards me with blue/purple/green/red (wtf?) lights