ryan s

Yep, the day before here Right click pics and you can see the Photobucket account name. Type in name at Photobucket, view album mix5 pictures by kryptonitewhite - Photobucket

lol funny story about that... Tiger Direct bought CompUSA when they went out of business...that's why they seem like they're the same. Then, when Circuit City went under, they were bought up by CompUSA. A bankrupt company bought a bankrupt company...only in America... Get a Dell laptop, then upgrade the components on your own. You could skip on things like a huge hard drive (get them an external HDD for backup, while you're at it, and show them how to use it) or 4GBs of RAM for the moment, and buy them a year or two down the road. My old Dell laptop is running a 1.8 Athlon dual core with 2GBs of RAM and it's decently quick with Win7. For general web browsing, playing music, etc it's just fine. It won't play games and Photoshop is slow if you try and open 15 pics at a time.

LOL I haven't heard that in years...

Nice! I remember having one of those plastic piece-together kits of a Diablo. Had like 10 pics of Diablos in my room, alongside the 911s, Vipers, NSXs, F355s, and Esprits.

Besides other user's comments, you copy/paste the same text and pics onto every forum. If you corrected something, you sure don't post it. Last line (and the other post), by the way, is your butthurt showing again. Show me where I said "several stupid things." About the 1 wire split to 14? That should be common sense. I didn't say the switches have duct tape on them...the wires do. We all can see that. Any negative comments, and you leave in a huff. Pissed off by people calling out your shoddy, sub-par, unsafe craftsmanship you're so proud of... Btw...it's "douches." A "deuce" is what you leave in a toilet, or a common nickname for a 1932 Ford coupe.

If you grew up in the 90s, I'd call you a liar if you said you didn't have a poster like this on your wall...

I thought about this thread today when I was considering where and IF I wanted to notch my doors to clear the speaker terminals, cause that's all the clearance I'd need

No, the problem is not with others. Remember your home build, using 2 2x4s to secure 4 sheets of 4x8' MDF together? Everyone said "you need more bracing" but you did it anyway...then came back with "lol I guess you guys were right!" When people were telling to you brace more...even posting pics/links to Elemental Designs builds showing MORE than adequate bracing, it was somehow condescending to you. When you did this: ...then said the switches got warm, and people told you not to tie 14 wires together with 1 little 14ga for power...you did it anyway. And got butthurt on top of it, even though it's completely opposite of how wiring should be done. People can say things nicely to you, but it's the "haters gonna hate" attitude which leads people to say things not so nicely to try and get through to you. Yes, this is in regards to DIYMA. It's not "hating" if you're doing something utterly incorrectly! Found this pic last night...fits perfectly. Haters gonna hate...but you're flying a plane with only 1.5 wings... Like I say in a lot of threads, I couldn't care less if you cut the top off to make a convertible since it's your vehicle, but the record needs to be set straight.

Actually, I forgot...the GTi's use 2 magnets and 2 coils, while XBL uses 2 magnets... While we're on the topic, the GTi's can take abuse due to the 2nd coil or "braking" coil. It's basically a push-pull design instead of a push, then relying on the suspension to bring it back. They are wound on the same chunk of cardboard so the coil never leaves the gap. Don't know if anyone is interested in white papers... http://www.jblpro.com/pub/technote/JBL_TN%201-33%20rev3.pdf And a post from Andy summing it up here...

It's definitely not a fad. You will also find similar speakers with this tech labeled with "shorting rings" or "Farraday rings." As already touched upon, Dan Wiggins owns the "XBL" term. (As a side note, you guys remember the flashlights that were all the rage a couple years ago, the ones you shook up then used? Those are principally Farraday "motors" since the "coil" is shifted in the "magnetic gap" and can't leave it like a conventional coil can.) In layman's terms...have you ever bottomed out a sub or heard one bottom? It's not pleasant and not good for it. XBLs can't bottom out. Theoretically, you can beat the hell out of them with a ton of power without damage. They're not popular due to the XBL trademark, also because people would rather brag about putting 3000 watts into a 10. That's my opinion on the second part so like it or hate it, there it is

your correct only on a 4 ohm driver the 2.83v is equel to 2 watts. I don't think the OP needs help setting his gain, I had simply asked what it was set at, didn't get an awnser so I made a recommendation as a starting point. The OP is trying to plan his next set-up, and actually wants to get different drivers is what the topic is about. Sometimes threads get a little off topic but it's good since we're still moving forward I lol'd at the smiley comment If you reverse the phase on the sub, you have to also "reverse the waves" of the sub. Can't think of a better term Basically...invert the sub. Most of the time, at least to me, there are very few issues with sub phase...more often it's cancellation due to the car. Crossing a sub lower, and with a steeper slope, makes it less localizable (your made up adverb for the day ). If you have the space for a 12 or 15, there's not really any reason for tens. Moving air is the name of the game. Get mids that can play decently low, seal the door or do kicks...most big subs can be low passed at 63Hz and many mids can be high passed at 63Hz My 15 could be crossed at 200Hz...if I wanted to do it. Of course, the less frequencies a single driver needs to play, the better...so 63Hz low pass it is.

Can't wait to have a CarPC and not have a "knob" accessible to passengers I believe they test with 1w (or 2.83v in some cases) and then they have a range where, say, the output dips 10dB or whatever it may be. That's the "frequency range"...the speaker is physically moving air but at an almost inaudible level but the computer can still pick it up. Based on the FR graphs I've seen for speakers, that's what I get out of it

Skip the MDF in the doors, if possible, since they absorb moisture and can damage your speakers. Get some "Marineboard" off ebay. My doors don't get wet, but I use cheap speakers Focals are very detailed as well. Some call them harsh, though how they're installed makes a big difference. And keep in mind that more expensive doesn't equal better... How much power are you planning for the front speakers (do you have an amp already)? Any plans for a processor? Are you looking for a "plug n play" with passive crossovers? Competing? lol why even ask that? People buy the SI BMs for space savings since they only need a cube between the pair. I don't mean this as a dig to the OP, but if he's asking about speaker choices and install... Good contribution.

I just set the gains by ear With 6.5V preouts, my one amp is set to like 5V and I clipped it once during some "Jet City Woman" Personally, I don't believe in the "x gain = y watts"...you'll find out if the speakers are getting too much. That's in the practical sense...since gain matching is for the headunit. And that's assuming a) the gain pot is linear and 2) the markings on the amp are right. The given "frequency response" numbers from the maker are generally way off. My MBQs should get down to 20Hz if I believe the box Don't mean to add to the fire, only stating preference

You can "make" black chrome that way, since spray tint is somewhat clear. I figured you'd be doing your rims and want something else to match them

2 mids, ok if next to each other. 2 tweeters, no-no. MBQs are VERY detailed speakers...do you have any EQ available? Some can't deal with their sound.

Something that will give all the speakers a workout. You can use favorites as long as they're good quality. I use whatever's in the CD player or on the USB stick. Having "reference" CDs or tracks is nice, although tuning with what you listen to most will give good results, too.

And what amp/subs have terminals that would accept 8ga wire anyway? lol

There's not really a "correct" gain setting in relation to a fraction or a clock position. Tuned at 3/4 max volume is a good rule of thumb, so you're right on. The passive crossover is a high pass filter for the tweeter, although I bet some sets have a low pass for the mid.

No idea on the plating, but if you want a start, get a fresh set of emblems and some spray tint

Box isn't even covered...there you go Worse comes to worst, you could probably find some panels at a junk yard. And...your vehicle is already 12 years old like mine so it's not a lightly-used car anymore Good luck! Keep everyone updated

Don't most cars come stock with 8ga? Depends on the car, depends what it's for. Wire going into my fuse panel are probably 12ga...the grounds are 10 or 8. Absolute minimum is guaranteed Headlight wiring is like 20ga...so tiny.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power. What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire? I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator. I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha. But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all. Just curious about the wire since my Knu speaker wire from that kit looks like it's starting to corrode inside but the power/ground wires still look good. It's crazy to think about how little power is really used when you get into higher frequencies...fractions of a watt...

Get a passive set and an amp that could go active if need be (my headunit doesn't have "low" highpass options under 2kHz, for example) and go from there. Once your install is top notch, swapping stuff will take out a variable or four Mess with the EQ and getting a good center image and all that good stuff without worrying about XO points at the moment.

To add to what to Sean said, in my opinion, tweak your setting once per day. Spend maybe 15-30 minutes on it. OP, sounds like you're headed in the right direction. I leave T/A off when setting gains but I turn it on when messing with the EQ. A tip someone else posted elsewhere is putting the sub's T/A at 0, then running the passenger side as far as the T/A will allow, then doing a proportion for the drivers side. To be clearer: "Stock T/A" numbers Sub 70" Driver's side 20" Passenger 40" Zero the sub Sub 0" Driver's side 80" Passenger 160" Note, the passenger side will be maxed out. I tried it and was skeptical, although it seems to put the width of the sound out further with more delay on the speakers and none on the sub. Give it a shot...it's free! Also free to go back to where you started Almost forgot...it's up to you about cutting door panels. I won't do it since I like a low key look. You can compromise the look of the door, or compromise on your low end response up front. "Compromise" being the key word