tehboss

Hi, i recently bought a recone kit for my Btl. It was a 12" and I am upgrading to an 18". I cut the surround and spider to remove the cone. Now, i see the screws holding the basket to the motor. Simple, right? Well i cant get the screws to break from the motor. They were soldered on to the metal. I broke the solder with a screwdriver, and now i'm left with six screws that WILL NOT budge. I really put some power behind one screwdriver and the screw started to strip on the top. Any ideas?

Ok, if I send in my sub in FI after purchasing a recone with a new 18" basket, what else will I have to pay to change it over from the 12" to an 18"? I'm thinking about the new packaging and larger seal. Also, how difficult would the change be for someone who has never performed a recone before (I could save over $100 in shipping)

The only problem I have with the amp is that the ssf is not adjustable. The ssf has three settings: 0,15, or 30. I just don't understand how I am hurting the sub with low notes if the box is tuned 4 hz above my amps setting.

This one has the poping noise on the high note and the big pop that stops the sub

I have some Videos that I took earlier today. Ill post them as soon as they upload. Maybe they will help.

I have had my 12" BTL for over five months now. Around 4 months ago, i started hearing a poping noise on certain high notes. My first thought was that the box it is installed in caused the sub to reach its mechanical limits. The enclosure is 3 cubes after displacement at 34 hz. I know that this box is over the recommended specs, but i am only giving the sub 1000 watts from an Alpine PDX 1.1000. The sub is fully loaded and i have never heard any clipping out of the amp. When i noticed the popiing noise, I turned my amp gain down to around an eighth of a turn from zero. This gave me very little bass, but it kept the sub from poping so i was satisfied until i could find a solution. Well two weeks ago i turned the gain back up to (3/8) from zero to find the gut wrenching bass that i love. The poping noise was less noticeable than before so i left the gain turned up. Yesterday, i saw that the foam surround was starting to break up. My disappointment was matched today when i turned my stereo on low to hear the sub give one big pop and then discontinued to play until i turned it down all the way and slowly raised the volume or restarted the amp. So after 5 months of having the BTL (and only around one month of actually playing it at high volumes), I am left a $500 bill from my savings and nothing to show for it. I am considering getting a recone but i have no idea if it will even fix the problem. Also, I would have to send my sub in because i have no idea how to do it myself and would probably waste more money messing it up. If i get it reconed, i think that i am going to buy a new 18" basket and rubber seal to convert it to an 18" sub. I know that FI is really busy right now, and i am still just mind boggled that i pushed this sub to its limits on 1k watts. Will a recone even fix my sub? The financial burden of this sub is starting to hurt. I don't want to put more money into it if it wont be fixed. Also, any ideas of how it happened? I am curious to see if anyone else has ever had something similar happen. Thanks in advance, Andrew

Ok, these are the crappy quality phone videos that probably wont help. I'm working on using a better camera. Turn volume down a little cause it distorts bad.

Not possible. Regardless you probably slammed the cone assembly into the basket on a note far below tuning which likely broke something. Those amps do not have adjustable subsonic filters...it's on or off at 25Hz I believe. The subsonic filter is 0, 15, or 30. I have it set at 30, which is 4 hz below tunning. I'll try to get a better quality video soon. So has anyone else had this problem before?

I don't know if the glue is failing or not. It looks ok but the sound is def coming from under dust cap. I have taken a video of the sub while in and out of the box, but it was with my phone so the quality sucks. The popping is not extremely harsh, but is very noticeable. Could the larger box have made this happen?

Hi, I have had my BTL 12 for several weeks now. Its fully loaded and only receiving around 1000 watts rms (PDX 1.1000). The enclosure is 3 cubes after displacement at 34 hz. On certain notes, i hear a popping noise. The notes are almost always higher notes. The spiders and leads look fine, but i dont have much experience with them. Is it possible that i am reaching the mechanical limits of the sub in this box at less than half power? Amp is not clipping to my knowledge. Voltage is stable when the noise sounds (less than half gain, no bass boost). Oh, and the popping is only heard at half volume plus. The sound sounds like its coming from under the dust cap. Any ideas?

I live in NC and it was just under $50 for a 12" BTL. Just checkout and see what it will be for your location.

So did the magnets ever pass through customs?

Thanks a lot guys. I appreciate everything. My list is almost complete so I will start working on the small stuff soon. Big BASS here i come!

Alright guys, thanks for the help. I will definitely look into the engine ground tomorrow. I do want to know if i should install a after market voltage meter. I read somewhere that the stock one doesn't give accurate readings. If i get one, where should a connect the power and ground wires to? (guessing battery because that seems to be the most obvious.)

Another stock alt is not going to do it with a 3500D. They are talking about specialized alternators for car audio if you didnt know. You will NEED one of those. Wait on the batt until you get the h/o alt and big 3 finished in 1/0 wire. Another batt is not essential right now. Yes you can ground to the chassis. Its the best place. Oh, I should have been more specific. I am still currently running the PDX right now so its only around 1100 watts RMS. The biggest alternator will be a 136A on a stock vehicle. I plan on upgrading to a HO (mean green or iraggi, which is better?) as soon as i buy the 3500D. I will get a Kinetik 1400 for the rear right now, and when i buy the 3500D, I'll move the 1400 up front and get a larger kinetik for the rear. So the biggest question now is, when wiring my new battery, will i NEED to upgrade to 0 AWG now or can it wait until i buy the 3500D? If i can leave my 4 AWG run for now, It will save me a lot of trouble. Also, i'm having trouble finding where to connect my engine ground the the chassis. Is anyone familiar with the 4.0L Inline 6 on a Jeep Grand Cherokee? BTW, all of my wiring is KnuKonceptz so it is decent stuff. Not looking foward to the extra $70 in 0 AWG wiring though. If you say this then why do you want to buy a battery now when you clearly dont need one right now? If you plan on running the PDX until the 3500D, you wont need another alternator in the mean time. If you do the big 3 in 1/0 now, which you will have to anyway with the 3500D, you will be fine with 1100rms. Quit trying to go the easy route and just get it done. As for Mean Green, never heard of em. Iraggi on the other hand is regarded as a quality product. There are a few others as well. Try drilling a hole through the chassis and use some bolts&nuts. That should work fine. Well, the reason i am planing on buying the kinetik 1400 is because I do a lot of playing with the vehicle off. I can get a really good deal on an alt (probably next to nothing) that is just a larger stock one because i know a lot of mechanics around that have connections. Remember that this is a jeep from 1993. That alt has a lot of wear on it, and it will be easier to put the larger stock one on now than to wait until mine fails. The 136A one will get me by until i can grab a H.O. one. As for the "easy route" thing, remember that I am funding this along with my insurance and gas on a minimum wage job and can only work on weekends. I WILL get it done. It will just be over a period of time. The chassis to engine grounds still have me stumped. The drilling and using nuts & bolts makes sense, but where should i attach it on the engine? I'm kind of inexperienced in the mechanical world, but I want to do it myself. Any other tips i could use? Thanks for suggestions.