PHATBOi

Naw whoever told you 250 is . Some go with a little under amps total fuse rating because you more than likely will never pull that many amps. Then you have some that go about 10-15% more than amps fusing, it all boils down to preference. Then you have another batch who fuse to wire's capacity so in all actuality you wont get a constant answer. Your on Team Audioque with these type of questions? No, not on Team Audioque, seen the logo and liked it. For around $5 I can buy one and stick it on my car window, doesn't make me a member of Team AQ. Just a guy with a sticker.

200 amp at the batt and 2 100 amps at the distro. Sound good? ///M5?

Wire and Fuse Selection: The following calculator will give basic wire and fuse sizes for the main power wire and for each individual amplifier. Select the class of operation for each amplifier and enter the power output at the right of the amplifier. If you have less that 4 amplifiers, enter zero in the fields that are not needed. Keep in mid that these are just suggestions. If your amplifiers don't have internal or on-board fuses, use the manufacturers suggested fuse in the distribution block. The fuse sizes given are to protect the vehicle from fire not necessarily to protect the amplifier.

What'd you use??? For my subwoofer I ended up using some Rockford Fosgate 13AWG twisted wire that I had laying around. I will be buying some nice 16 guage wire from Fry's within a couple of days since they have spools of 100 ft for $20-30 depending on the quality. Nice to know, I usually just buy the Scoshe 14 gauge from Walmart, iirc it's like $15 for 25ft or so. Will def look into this. Thanks.

Ok, so we got 150, 200, and on another forum 250 , can someone give me a consistent answer, please. Thanks.

Give a man a fish, and he eats for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will eat for the rest of his life. Thank you for breaking it down.

That's what I figured, but I have heard people say that was wrong cause you are fusing the wire not the amps? If I went that route then it would be 180 for both amps, so a 200 would be good, correct?

The Audiopipe AP line puts out rated, has been proven time and again. The AP1500D can be had on egay for around $160 shipped and the new AP1800D for $190 shipped. Another good option is the MB Quart DSC line. The DSC1500D for around $200 shipped and the DSC2000.1D for like $275 shipped which I will be running in my next system. The MB Quart brand is under the Maxxsonics umbrella, but in a completely different ball park imo. I have personally seen the DSC2000.1D on two fully loaded BTL 18's at only 2 ohms, so 500 per sub, and all I can say is this amp is a beast! Those subs where bangin for 1000 rms.

Thanks for all the input guys. Finally made up my mind for sure. Going with MB QUART PVI216 (PVI216) 6.5" 140W PVI Series Component SPEAKERS 70 watts rms run off a MB Quart DSC280 80x2 at 4 ohms. Going to fab some mounting baffles for my factory 5x7 holes from 1/8" ABS plastic sheet.

I will be dynamating also. When I install the dynamat on the doors, where would be the key places to hit. Around the speaker hole and behind the speaker? Thanks.

Ok, so what about these http://www.millionbuy.com/mbqdsh216.html run off of this http://www.millionbuy.com/mbqdsc280.html? Thought I could make a baffle from 1/8" ABS plastic to fit them into my doors.

Last but not least, is there a difference between using a 6.5 comp setas opposed to a 5x7 comp set? Was looking at these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14709_MB+Quart+PVI+268.html. Thanks.

Thanks. Good to know. I think that is where I went wrong with my first comp set. I tried to push them hard on full pass. They didn't last long.

Question, when you run a component set, you run the amp on full pass because the components have the crossover, correct?

Thank you for your advice. I just found a full audio mag review on those comps and really like the sound of them. Found a set on egay for arounf the price you stated. I pretty sure these are what I will get. Thanks again.

Yes rap, lol, you got me there. But I do like to kick some oldies once in a while, Al Green and such. Lookin to spend around $100 to $150 on them. What do you think about something like this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19505_Boston+Acoustics+SR80.html ?

Thank you for your honesty. Yes a 6.5 will fit, I had them in there before, but they where cheap and sounded like ass. I was just under the impression that 2 smaller speakers would have more output than 1 large. This is why I asked for an outside opinion. And no I don't play my sub that high, I wasn't very clear with that statement. Was just saying that I like my highs and my bass, don't get real crazy about having midrange bass. But I think this is due to the fact I haven't really had it before so I don't know what I'm missing. I like the idea of not having rear speakers and wanted to try it. Just don't want to have to cut my front door up or do a bunch of custom work to be able to get the sound I want from just the front stage. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

DO IT!

Point taken and subject closed.

Ok, I have made my final decision for my income tax build. What I have already: Stock 80amp alt Optima Yellow Top under hood Big 3 in 2 gauge welding cable 1 run of 2/0 power cable to trunk Stock tweets POWER ACOUSTIK KP-573N 5x7's front door POWER ACOUSTIK KP-694N 6x9's rear deck What I Will Be Getting: Radio- Kenwood KDC-X493 22w rms per channel, 4v preouts Sub Amp- MB Quart DSC2000.1D Sub- HDC312 D2 Batt for trunk- Shuriken SK-BT20 Box- .75 MDF 2.2cuft net slot port tuned to 38Hz (build myself or KOB Customs) This all will be going in my 2003 Mazda Peotege ES. This is the family car for now (I have 3 kids and only the one car, lol.). Sometime next year, we will be getting a minivan or suv for the family car, then the real build will begin! I will most likely be getting the 12 reconed to a 15 and buying it a brother. I will get a second DSC2K and strap them. I want to do a half wall behind the seat with the box built into the trunk, port forward in the center or on the bottom, and seal it off to the trunk. This way I can keep my back seat if I need to put the kiddys in the car. My amp rack and xtra batts will be built into the trunk behind the box. As of now it is just a dream, baby steps, LOL! Highs will be running off the deck till I get an amp for them. Most likely a DSC4125. So, what are your thoughts, good or bad?

Just an update, sent Mike Stiers an email: Mike, Hi, I would like to take a moment of your time to ask some questions about the MB Quart DSC2000.1D. First off, is it a Zenon board? This is a hot topic of dispute on many forums. Next, does the bass boost on the DSC boost the signal prior to amplification, like a line driver, or after on the output, like a regular bass boost? I have been told by a dealer of yours it was the prior, just wanted to get it from the horses mouth. Last but not least, what kind of fail rate do you have with this amp? Do you have to repair alot of them? Any answers you may provide in this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. This is his response: Hello, This is NOT a Zenon board. We will NEVER do business with Zenon as they are bad for the industry. We employ our own Engineers are work with several build houses throughout China and Korea, but Zenon is not one of them. Many competing manufacturers have taken our amplifiers and had them duplicated at other Chinese and Korean vendors as is evident by the numerous similar designs you see in pics on the forums. The Bass Boost on the amplifier end panel is a degree of boost at a fixed 45Hz tone that is boosted during amplification. The Remote Control is a LEVEL boost identical to the Level on the amplifier end panel. These amplifiers have a very low failure rate if used as the manufacturer suggests. Regards, Mike Stiers Maxxsonics USA Product Development Specialist

I have never doubted the quality of the AQ2200D, I know AQ puts out quality subs and amps. My only question has been is the DSC2000.1D even in the same league as the AQ, and it was answered today. I got my first up close encouter with the DSC2K today in gmonk's Avalanche. He has a single DSC2K pushing two fully loaded Fi BTL 18's at only two ohms and this amp is hands down a beast! It was poundin those BTL's with only 500 watts a piece. The AQ is a quality product at a very good price, but for me with goin to college full time, three kids, and a house payment, it is all about the bargain. And the DSC2K is just to good of a bargain to pass up. On a side note, I got my first close encounter with the HDC312s today also. lambofgood91 (on floridaspl.com) played his 2 HDC312s runnin off a SAZ3500D in a Ford Focus for me and it hurt just to sit inside of his car. I was very impressed with the quality of sound they produced also. Very clean and tight. I am excited to say the least. I think the DSC2000.1D and the HDC312 D2 are going to be very good friends, LOL!

Yes I am quoting myself, LOL. Disregard this ^^^^^^^^^^^, I was confused. I will be sticking with the DSC2000.1D. If anything just to be running an underdog, LOL. But seriously, there are just to many similarities between the two to justify spending an xtra 100 for the AQ. Just MHO.

Ok, well I have been back and forth about this since the beginning, but I have found the straw to break the camel's back. It might seem unimportant to some but it is the final con for me. Just found out the remote knob on the DSC2000.1D is only a bass boost knob. Sucks. So, I am going to spend my money right the first time and go with the AQ2200D. This is the route I wanted to follow from the start, but the cheap skate in me tried to do some penny pinching. I have found through past experiences that car audio equipment is like prostitues, you get what you pay for. I don't want to make the same mistakes again.