PHATBOi

Thanks guys. AQ2200 will be here today! That in Florida 1 day shipping doe...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkkcRYID_rM

Decided I didn't need all that power now that I have the X's, and could use some money, so I put my amp up for sale with the intention of buying 2 smaller amps to strap at 2 ohms. Came across a deal I couldn't refuse and now I will have an AQ2200.1D to run at .5 on the X's, plus a nice little chunk of cash for my pockets. Oh, and it comes with a set of ToolMaker dual inputs.

So, yeah, this happened the morning of the Crescendo show. To both subs... So, I got these in trade at the show... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdDUrwg0CLg...eature=youtu.be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqfiB5t0IQQ...eature=youtu.be

What does LOC stand for? and both RCA's are connected to the back of the stock headunit, its just that the "right" channel RCA broke that plugs into the "right" input on the 2000d. So I guess I am missing out on half the signal? but it just doesn't seem like there's anything wrong sound wise. I could be wrong. The stock head unit has a line-out on the back of it? Haven't seen that before. So, the RCA cable itself broke, or the input on the amp broke? If it's the RCA cable, just replace the cable or get a y-splitter (2 male to 1 female) and put it in behind the head unit so you can combine both signals to the one good half of the cable. If it's the input on the amp, get the opposite y-splitter (2 female to 1 male). That way you can combine the signal and feed both sides into the one input. The amp only needs one input to function since it's a mono amp, but you want to give it as much signal as possible. The more input signal you give the amp, the less it has to work to make up (or GAIN) the difference.

Nice! Getting it for a single 12. As for the RCA question, I assume you're using a LOC as you have a stock head unit. I'd try to get as much signal into the amp as possible. It would seem if you're only using one output on the LOC, you'd only be getting half as much signal. I may be wrong though.

I usually leave mine at 0 and then go + or - a notch or two depending on if the song has not enough or too much bass. I have an 80prs as well, and it is set to 0.

Thanks guys. Swung by Trafficking Customs here in Tampa the other day to check on some of my buddy's SBN builds and my boy Darrel shot a few vids of my van. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=681027771958543&set=vb.100001539802558&type=2&theater&notif_t=video_comment_tagged https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=681025371958783&set=vb.100001539802558&type=2&theater

Yes sir! Thanks. Box is 4 cubes net @ 28Hz with a little over 50 sqin of port area. Subs are D2's and the 3800.1 is at .5 daily. Loving this setup more and more everyday.

Some build pics...

I know with only 5k I should have a bigger box, but this is as big as I can go. Let me know what you think. Goal is to get low (play mostly Decaf and other slowed/modded music) and move some air. Thanks.

Pretty effin sick. Awesome upgrade. Nice air movement.

Nice. Wish I could make the show this weekend. Maybe you could come out to one of our Friday USF meets here in Tampa sometime?

Any updates? How is the amp holding up? Decided to go with the same one myself. Will be running on a custom built TRF 12 at .7. Lmk, thanks.

Sold.

Ampere Audio SubWoofers The AA-2.5 Series is our newest line up for subwoofers and all built in house. The AA-2.5 was designed for 800-1000 rms per driver. The lead wires are formed into the spider layers which further enhances durability and eliminates lead slap/breakage problems. The frame is cast aluminum with a sandblasted, powder coat finish. A large 2.5” copper coil in the motor reduces energy storage from inductance, with the side benefit of lowering distortion for "faster" response. Large 190mm dual-stacked, high-energy magnets handle the heavy lifting and bring Qts down to a level where the subwoofers can be used in vented or sealed enclosures. SUBWOOFER INFORMATION: •1000w RMS •4 layer 2 1/2 inch copper coil •Dual medium spiders •Sewn leads •Pressed paper cone •Butyl rubber surround •Cast basket •Dual 190 x 1 Inch slug motor with forged 10-06 steel Includes: 1 YEAR WARRANTY COVERAGE In the event that an Ampere Audio subwoofer/amplifier fails due to a manufacturing defect, we’ll fix or replace it free of charge for a time period of one year from the date of purchase for woofers and amps. This warranty is transferable provided the original invoice is still with the product so the new owner can provide purchase date. All warrantied items must be sent shipped prepaid to Ampere Audio with the original invoice and receipt. Warranty Exclusions: 1. Burnt coils 2. Customer abuse, competition use, power in excess of rating 3. Amplifiers used in competition or daily use running below rated ohm loads or voltage This sub is brand new, was just delivered today from http://www.xplicitaudio.com/. They go for $235 shipped on their site. Looking to get $175 +shipping. Text 813703three39six or email [email protected] as I have email notifications from the forum turned off. Thanks.

Bump.

Xplicit Audio just commented on one of my for sale posts on facebook and said they'd price match my $150 +shipping for a second sub if anyone wants a pair. So you can buy mine and then order one from them for the same $150 +shipping.

Bump $150 +shipping.

Bump.

Not sure. This sub is brand new. I haven't powered it. You can find specs on xplicitaudio.com, the link I posted in the first post. I can tell you this sub is pretty damn heavy and seems to be very well built. It has a stitched high roll rubber surround, flat sewn tinsel leads, and a fairly large (for a 2.5" coil) double stack motor with a big bumped back plate.

The explanation of dynamic headroom not cutting off the sine waves makes sense to me. Thank you for that explanation.

Looking into CT Sounds.