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Everything posted by PHATBOi
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What would you compare the output to 1 12, 2 12's, 1 15 (all on same power ~1500 rms)? I know this is install dependent but just curious as too a rough estimate what 4 SA-8's on 1500 rms would be comparable to in output. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.
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Thanks guys. I'm lookin to do 4 in 2.4^3 net tuned @ 32Hz subs up port back in the trunk of my 03 Mazda Protege. Port will be kerfed and be along the bottom of the box. Like this, but obviously much smaller: Lookin like it's going to be a new Audiopipe AQX2500.1 for power. Not bad for $330 shipped brand new.
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So my car has been dieing after sitting overnight. It won't start in the morning. I have been leaving it on the charger overnight. I have an Optima Red Top under the hood and a 55ah SR12-205FR Super Rate Series in the trunk. I took the trunk batt out at Autozone and the guy tried to test it and said it was at 10.xx volts and he couldn't run the test with it that low. He said that I have to do a trickle charge on this batt, it can't be charged with a regular charge. Is this true? Then we tested the red top (with the trunk batt still disconected) and it was resting at 12.41 volts and read as a bad batt. The Autozone guy said it should be around 12.45 volts and I should trickle charge it as well before replacing it. Will .04 volts seriously make a batt read bad? I don't think so. Should I just replace the red top and see if it fixes it? What do yall think? Any info provided is much appreciated. Thanks.
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Can't believe I missed this thread. Just read up on the whole thing. Awsome work bro! Build looks great. I love these 8's. Can't wait for income tax so I can order mine. Definately tuned in for the vid. BTW, those are some badass rims you got there.
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So you 86ed the Mustang?
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Cool, thanks for the reply. Got any vids?
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Fi: Looks to me like Fi recomends 2000 and under. Reading is a wonderful thing.
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So let me get this right.... Your actually buying the BL series instead of the BTL series just so you could run your subs over their rms rating? Either buy the BTL series and run the 4K amp or buy the BL series, sell the 4K and buy a solid 2K (AQ2200D would be a great choice). Just my $.02. As stated above, if you have to ask how much power they can take then the answer is rms.
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need info on OHM 's for Fi BTL . questions about future system. an
PHATBOi replied to swagger_wagon468's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Two of these ought to do just fine (and cost a HELL of alot less than the XS). Deka Intimidator 9A31 Battery -
Thanks for the response Jacob. Was considering doing 3K to the 4 but thought it might be overkill and maybe I could get what I was lookin for with just the 1500. I think I will plan for the 1500 and if needed I can always upgrade later. Thanks.
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Strapping Amps
PHATBOi replied to Sir-Lancelot's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
If you run each amp seperate at a 1 ohm load, you will have to gain match the 2 amps with a dmm to get balanced output to all woofers. If you run them strapped, you have one gain, one lpf, and one ssf to set as stated above. Personally I would strap. -
Sundown 1500.1 or Audioque 2200d
PHATBOi replied to beatindowndablock247's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I love how people say get the Sundown just cause it's Sundown even though the AQ will clearly fit his application better. LMAO. -
Sounds good man. Don't forget to take pics and post them up. Good luck bro. You won't be dissapointed with the Crescendos .
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I am running 1 set of the Crescendos in my front doors off 160 rms per door and they love. Loud and crisp is how I would describe the sound. Best components you will find at this price poit for sure. I would run them 2 way in your doors and a second set in the back set up coaxial style. Yes these components can be ran 2 way or the tweet can be attached to middle like a regular speaker. So, $200 for 2 sets and spend the xtra $50 on some sound deadening for your doors. Check out fatmat.com, it's like $45 shipped for 25 sqft iirc. 25^ FatMat Sound Deadener Noise Killer
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I bet his mom slaps his face everytime he talks like that, lol.
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dem btls r da shet sun if u putz **** 2000watt hifoniks on der **** shiz iz gunna bump like no other! it just makes comen sence. for realz bruh, nikkas will hear yor shiz 2 blocks away HEAR ME B4 U SEE ME I GOTZ KING KONG IN DA TRUNK I'm pretty sure my IQ dropped 10 points just typing that.
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Awsome work on the box bro. Birch FTW!
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My next build will consist of 4 SA-8's with whichever coil options I need to see either a 1 ohm or 2 ohm final imp. Box will be 2.4^3 net tuned to 32Hz subs up port back. I already have an AP15001D so I could get a second and make an AP30001D. Would be cheaper than the AQX2500.1, but I don't know if the 8's will take 750 a piece daily. I know the AQX2500.1 would be pushing it already. I have ran double rms to an AA Chaos 15 with my AP15001D without any problems. So I know how to watch my system for signs of stress and properly control my volume and gain. Electrical will consist of 140 amp HO Alt, Optima Red Top under the hood, Big 3 in 1/0, 1 run of 2/0 positive from front to back, 100ah in the trunk with 2/0 ground and 1/0 running to the amp. Can someone who has ran the 8's on this much power please offer me some advice. Thanks.
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AWSOME setup bro. I am about to do 4 Sundown SA-8's in 2.4^3 @ 32HZ off 2.5K daily. Can't wait.
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Yea I figured 2.4 after displacements would be ideal for so much power. I will definately have the ssf set correctly as well.
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What would cause you to think this? It sounds like you need a lesson on the basics. The impedance isn't "created" by the source as you seem to be implying. You can't just increase the current output and expect impedance to decrease. By just randomly plugging numbers into Ohms Law it may appear this is possible; but it's not. Certain values in the actual circuit must be known before you can attempt to incorporate Ohms Law. The voltage and amperage you are measuring don't create an impedance. You may calculate the impedance, by using Ohms Law, because of the known variables at your disposal (the measured voltage and amperage). But the only reason you are calculating for impedance is because you are measuring the voltage and current, so you need to calculate the missing variable; impedance. To keep things simple, lets assume we are playing a test tone through the system. The load (the speaker in our case) has an impedance. This is a physical property of the loudspeaker, not a theoretical figure calculated by Ohms Law (even if calculating it is how you are able to determine what value the impedance is). The amplifier is operating a a certain level of voltage output. These two properties are going to determine the power output of the amplifier and as a result the amount of current drawn by the load. If the voltage output is 50V and the load is 4ohm, the power output would be 625w and the current output would be 12.5A. If the voltage output is 50V and the load is 2ohm, the power output would be 1250w and the current output would be 25A. The impedance of the speaker is a result of multiple different factors. The design of the enclosure, the frequency being played and the amount of heat in the coil are all going to affect impedance rise. The impedance of a 1ohm speaker at resonance may be 20ohm or more, and there's nothing you can do about it. The only way to increase the amperage output in the above example is to decrease the impedance of the speaker or increase the voltage output of the amplifier. You can not increase the amperage to decrease the impedance. It simply doesn't work that way. I assume your ultimate goal here is to get more power into the subwoofer. If you want to increase the power the subwoofer is receiving, you either need to decrease the impedance of the load (which is NOT going to happen by "creating more AC Amps") or increase the voltage output of the amplifier (which may not be possible without changing amplifiers). Just an FYI, what's going to happen when you push more power into the speaker is that the coil is going to heat up more, causing it's resistance to rise higher, creating a higher impedance, not lower. Are you aiming for an SPL fart cannon or a daily driver system? If your goal is a daily driver system, forget about impedance rise. Forget about measuring voltage and current. Just forget about it, they are ultimately unimportant to your goal. You won't have enough control over any of it to make any difference, so just stop worrying about it. Thank you. This was a good read. I always learn something from you.
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Doesn't really matter if your gettin the same power either way.
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Vids or GTFO! LOL. Looks good bro.
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Crescendo Audio :: Component Speaker Systems :: CCX65 My Car: 1 set of CCX65's off an AP3002, 160 rms per door.
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Thank you, I was curious about this myself.