PHATBOi

Ok, so got some updates. The RUB1.2500D took a shit right after this vid. Apparently there was severe vibration damage to the amp. Can't say that it was like that when I got it or I did it, but I know it is puttin out twice as much as it was when I got it now that it's fixed. There was a diode broke off on one solder joint, the protection light lightbulb was rolling around inside the case, the insulation pads on two of the fetts had slid out of place and the fett where touchin the heatsink, the speaker terminals where completely broke off the board and apparently had been for sometime as there are numerous black spots from where it's been arcing, and one of the RCA towers was completely broken off. Now the case was missing some screws when I got it and I had it mounted on the back of my box and I did see it vibrating pretty bad, so like I said, I can't say I didn't do it. I just feel like that is alot to happen in such a short time (a few days) that I had it installed and also the fact that it was literally putting out half as much as it is now when I got it. Pretty sure I was only gettin 1/2 my input voltage with one of the RCA towers not being active. Anyway, here's some vids. Borrowed my boy's Earthquake PHD2 Shredder modded to 1 ohm while he was fixin on my Rubie. And, big thanks to stanky1219/bassin buick for fixin my amp and loanin me his while he was doing it. True friend. Even did some hot glue work inside and reinforced everything so it's solid as a rock now and all screws are in.

Seriously, why does an AQ1200D or a Sundown SAZ-1500D have built in fusing? Is it there to protect the wire or the amp? AT that point it is there to protect the amp and that's what I'm doing, protecting my amp. It's like havin a new born baby and buying the Pampers instead of the Parent's Choice, lol.

Will be built in car in this area. Slot port on drivers side, sub and port firing into cab, sealed off from trunk. This is what I've come up with, but how do I figure the 90 for the length of L port? Thanks in advance.

Just to spite you.

But the amp is up side down! All the db's are going to fall out! LOL! Just messing with you. I have never had a problem with an amp mounted to a box. If your box flexes enough to break the amp you need a better box! Box is solid. No flex. 23/32 Cabinet Ply FTW!. And I put a second layer of spacer between the box and the amps. Seems to be working fine. And you heard wrong, around here the unspoken rule of thumb is reverse mount to add the DB'z.

Going to be paneling off the front and the trunk with beauty panels sealing off the trunk from the cabin and leaving display windows for the amps in the trunk.

I've never had a problem either. Where else am I supposed to mount that beast? That's actually one of my favorite parts of the build, pop that trunk and see that sexy bitch chillin. I love it!

Finished product:

My response:

David from PSI:

Not takin any chances with my 2500 watt baby.

Yeah, got the fuse and holder when I got the wire but got home and ended up with a 4 gauge direct connect fuse holder lol. Goin back today to swap it out and 250 amp fuse will be added. Thanks.

Sounds great! What I expected and more! Can only get louder. Sub is fresh and needs break in and I need to get the beauty panels done and seal of the trunk.

Oh no worries. They definitely get the point across. SECKSEE! PSI is definitely ftw. Who built/designed it? Love teh aeros.

Stupid dust cap came unglued as soon as I turned it up, lol. Sounded pretty good for that half of min. Reglued it more gooder. Girl leaves for work soon, so we'll see how it sounds around 1am...

Nice. 4 18's no wall? Any pics of the box? Very impressive numbers wall or not.

Bout to head to Live Wire and grab some stuff I need for the 2.5K. Gonne get it playin and worry bout sealin off the trunk later. Gonna see about gettin BHE to spruce it up a lil with some beauty panel action.

Yeah I know. That's why I upgraded from a 12 to a 15 and added another 1.5K watts to push it. Sorry for the harsh words, was defensive over my first design. I will edit my posts. Thanks for your input. Edit: Guess you can't edit old posts or something.

Had to move the box farther back in the trunk than I had originally planned because I did not give myself enough clearence under the rear deck lip to get the top on. Ended up just installing the front panel and building the box from it. But, forgot to cut the hole out untill it was already glued and screwed. :banghead3: So, I cut it in the car and cut it to big. :rolleyes2: So, if anyone asks, it was meant to be double baffle the whole time, lol. Also as you can see, I forgot to leave a gap in the front 2x2 for the sub. That was a fun fix and most likely the reason the hole ended up to big...

Work DID! Box is built. Camera died so no finished pics. Lettin the dustcap on the sub and the caulk I just applied inside the box to make sure it was sealed dry. Goin to Live Wire in the AM to fetch installation accessories. Should be playing but not sealed off from the trunk by tomorrow.

A friend of a friend here in Tampa finished up his 4 15 wall in his 2 door Escort ZX2 one nite and an old man pulled out in front of him the next day and he totaled the car, shifting the wall 10 inches forward, and also killing the poor old man.

Close call. Glad nothin was damaged.

It's like the reverse of a noob askin "Yo, dawg, what kinda amp should I get to make my speakas talk **** loud loud?". smh

BTW, thanks for teh vague suggestion with no reasoning what so ever behind it. I'll just run right over and tune my box higher now because bassahaulic on SSA said so.

Aight, so I figured out I should have butted the second port wall up against the first instead of drawing it flush with it like I did. That way only gives me 3" of port width along the back wall cause of the .75 wood thickness. SO, if it's butted, it would be 8" of physical board for the back wall plus the .75 thickness of the first wall plus the 18.75 of length of the first port wall gives me my 27.5 of physical port length.