hatrix

Good. Now start with running the R's active and switching back and forth. Once you can make them sound better active versus passive AND understand why you are ready to start driver shopping. Replacement came in a few days ago. Got in installed passively and it's working again as normal. I'll try what you recommended once I get my other amp installed.

So last week while driving and listening to music at a moderate level, my left mid goes out all of a sudden. It comes back on then out again about two more times until it completely stops. The tweeter was still playing fine however. Now I'm pretty baffled by this. I checked every connection, from the amp to the crossover and then finally the speaker itself. Nothing was wrong, but I redid the connections at the amp and crossover anyways. Still didn't fix it. I took the speaker out of my door to inspect it and test it on an amp in my bedroom. Nothing is visibly wrong with it, coil is perfectly shiny, cone moves up and down without any problems. Tried testing it in my room and still nothing from it. They are Alpine SPR-13S 5.25" components. Rated at 100 watts RMS each and I'm powering them off of a Rockford Fosgate P500-2 @ 4 ohms. So as far as I can see I shouldn't have any problems with burning them up or anything. My right mid is still working perfectly fine. Gain isn't very high on the amp, high pass was set around ~100hz or so. Punch EQ at zero, I do not use it ever. I even set the high pass filter option on my head unit to 125hz just to make sure that over excursion wouldn't be an issue (and it's been running like this for a while now). I'm assuming it's something internal with the speaker... I honestly don't know. I'm doubtful it's fixable, at least not easily if it all. Either way, not having the left half of my stereo field is driving me absolutely nuts. I mix and produce music with nearfield monitors almost every day, so stereo imaging is absolutely crucial to me. Plus, I lost a lot of output and the single mid and tweeter can't keep up with my sub. I need to figure out a replacement solution fast. The series has been discontinued, I bought it probably 4 years ago. Only replacement I could find is a pair of just the woofers (I don't want new tweeters or crossovers), light usage, for $70. But then I'm paying for a speaker I'm not going to use and would just be a backup. I don't want to by a woofer from the new version as I'm sure it'll sound different and my woofers won't match. What I would like help with is possible recommendations on if I should go ahead with the replacement from ebay or try to find a pair of different woofers for my doors. Or maybe figure out what is really wrong with the speaker ? I don't really have a very big budget unfortunately. Around $125 at most I'd say. That is what I originally paid for the component set so I'm not looking to downgrade.... I would kind of prefer to keep the tweeters since I already have them mounted and I like their sound. Maybe I can improve upon what I had with a new pair of woofers, I'm not sure with my budget.

I went ahead and ordered a used pair of the Type R woofers just since it's the better option as of right now. When I get everything I need go active, then we can talk about dealing with the Founteks properly. I think I can handle setting it up in a proper 2 way. In the meantime however I'll need to recheck amp settings and increase my HPF because they must be receiving to much low end somehow.

I get what you mean. I still would like to buy a pair of Fountek FW146s for when I can go active... So either way I'll be wasting money as a temporary band aid if I don't want to comprise quality.

To help see if there's anything better as a replacement mid that they sound decent with, temporarily, with my current crossovers. And oh yea I forgot I already had measurement apps on my phone. Duh. Measuring the crossover points will NOT help that. There is no other driver with the same impedance response as the one you have. Crossovers are MATCHED to drivers. If you want to upgrade you need to replace both.If it were an emergency repair or something temporary, ok, but for long term that isn't a good idea. The problem is I either buy used Type R mids and then have to pay for a speaker I won't use (as I can only find the woofer in pairs), or I just go with the other mids from parts express and replace both woofers. Using the passive crossover would most certainly be temporary. I want to go fully active. I know it is not ideal. But I'd rather make a good move for the future than just waste money on two woofers that BOTH won't be used in time. I still don't know what the better option is though.

To help see if there's anything better as a replacement mid that they sound decent with, temporarily, with my current crossovers. And oh yea I forgot I already had measurement apps on my phone. Duh.

My a pillars are annoying small and super close to the windshield the whole length because it's a XJ model jeep. I don't have the space to make pods for my tweeters so they are just glued to the pillars. I can still get behind them to clean up wires but it sucks the way they are. Distance from my mids is further than I'd like but I wanted them closer to ear level. The Type R tweeters are almost the width of the a pillars. I don't think I can go much bigger. They do swivel however so I've gotten them to sound pretty good with some EQ. Not harsh at all. What I want to know is what my tweeters are crossed over at exactly. I can't find the specs anywhere for crossover points for the set.

Appreciate the help man. I figured it was after looking at it's specs, and I figured it may get harsh farther up since its an aluminum cone. Mids are running on stock locations in my door, no dampening has been done or any treatment. I need to definitely. Tweeters are mounted on my a pillars. I have no stock tweeter location.

Ah I see. I mean it does have options for both low and high pass on both pre outs, along with a 5 band EQ. It's not to bad but I see what you're saying. I was thinking of going with these mids when I do go active: http://www.parts-express.com/fountek-fw146-5-1-4-aluminum-midwoofer-speaker--296-727 Fountek FW146. Seems to have a good enough frequency response compared to my alpines, if not better. They should get a bit louder too. I kind of want to order them as replacements now and run them with my passive crossovers but I'm not sure if it would sound very good. I just don't like the idea of paying just about the same price for a replacement Alpine Type R and having an unused speaker. I was looking at that exact Clarion HU before it even released specifically for the time alignment and how cheap it is. I do like my current HU though, so possibly adding the miniDSP is a cheaper alternative when I go active.

No I do not. I really need to get one though. I would've done that immediately lol. I get what your saying. Thinking about it though, isn't it possible to still go active with my current headunit ? I would just have to run the rear/sw outs full range, then passthrough to my sub amp. Crossover would then be adjusted on the P500-2 along with the headunit. I have another unused 2 channel amp sitting around too. Pioneer GM-5500T. A friend just gave it to me for free so I said sure lol. Shame my head unit doesn't have 3 sets of pre outs so I could control everything from it. I was reading a bunch of threads on going active. I'm definitely interested, I've been looking at drivers on parts express to replace my woofers for a while now. This would of course be a 2 way setup to start off with.

I mean I'd love to but I know that's going to far exceed my budget.... I've never run active. I understand what the difference is, but I'm not positive on what I'd really need to make the change. Wouldn't I need to upgrade to a 4 channel amp and also add a sound processor before the amp ? That's definitely more than I have to spend sadly. Or is my head unit capable of doing the job ?

Well there goes the shops credit.... In all seriousness your gains are more than likely the issue. I realize you changed ohm load but if the amp is still sending a highly clipped signal it doesnt matter. shop isnt known for any Super nice builds when my wife took truck for my bday stereo they did all work n I decided to go better sub than recone mmats and now im stuck with a 34lb 2 day old paperweight and I tried calling teh fi warranty number to no avail If it's user error it's not going to covered under warranty man, sorry.

Well there goes the shops credit.... In all seriousness your gains are more than likely the issue. I realize you changed ohm load but if the amp is still sending a highly clipped signal it doesnt matter.

Subsonic filter. If it and your gain were not set correctly and you were playing modified music that could very well be your problem. gain has been set its been in truck only thing that changed was the ohm load from original 2 ohm on amo(mmats was d4) the fi was d2 and it got wired to 4ohm for break in period. You still seemed to have ignored my comment. Setting your gain with the DD-1 is not properly setting the gain.

Subsonic filter. A big reason most people blow subs. Either they don't even have one or it's set improperly. The DD-1 does not prevent clipping. It is a useless item. And I realize you didn't say your an expert. But you decided to go ahead and do everything without asking for help when clearly you should have.

This is so clearly user error. And why you made THREE threads I have no idea. Have fun getting help with this one. Why everyone thinks they are just an expert at setting up car audio I have no idea. The DD-1 is useless, you clipped the shit out of the sub I'm sure.

Haha I still run Alpine Type R 5.25" components in my doors. For $120 I couldn't ask for better performance. They scream. Agreed on rear speakers. You do NOT want them. Instant soundstage killer.

I've used my 18" SSD inside it's box in a living room while djing for a house party. Worked fine for the application. But, you'll never beat real PA subwoofers already in a rugged box for the fact they are designed for long throw (especially if horns) and project bass over a bigger area much easier. You won't be able to build an enclosure for cheap enough money to justify it over buying a real active PA sub.

I've tried emailing support like 5 days ago.... Haven't heard anything back. Called a few times, always a busy signal. All I need is a replacement dustcap for my sub.

I mean I don't see how they wouldn't have a single dustcap... I'm not going to recone an entire sub because the dustcap is cracked.

I'll give the email a day before I try to PM him. All I need is a replacement dustcap.

Sent another email to that address. Can't remember who I sent it to before.

x2 Just use a blow dryer to heat up the damaged dustcap/adhesive and use a razor to separate the dust cap from the cone. Takes less than 5 mins to do. Great, I sent them an email. Thanks for the info.

Ugh.... So I was keeping this SA-15 I had near my closet next to my TV, not in use just holding it as I'm trying to sell it. I'm sitting in the opposite side of the room on the computer when a screw and clamp supporting a shelf in my closet rips out of the wall, a loud popping sound that makes me turn around in surprise. Amazingly the shelf manages to still stay up. I go over to inspect and see the clamp on the far left is not on to well. I wiggle it slightly, BAM whole damn shelf comes crashing down along with everything that was on it. We are talking a 3 foot long shelf about 6 feet in the air. I had lots of heavy schoolbooks on it, I keep jeans on it, notebooks/folders. It had a lot of stuff on it so it had gotten pretty heavy. Stuff fell everywhere of course, some of my school textbooks fell right on top of the sub. I was like oh shit it's probably really messed up, as they were some beefy heavy books. Kind of messed me up in the whole collapse too as it was right in my face but my immediate concern was the sub. Inspect the sub... the crack is about 3" long and also turns towards the end. Its not all the way to the edge. The books also put a scuff in the cone. Not all the way through or anything, but a decent gouge 1" long or so. Shittiest luck ever. Like the chances of this happening are about never. The sub moves around in my room all the time too. Mostly it was kept over by my desk, a good distance from the closet. My question, is the crack cosmetic or will it cause problems without being glued or replaced ? I know the gouge is cosmetic. If it will cause problems, what are my options in fixing this ? Hopefully not expensive... I was trying to sell this ! I don't need it. Now this is a set back. Pics:

Theirs pics in the spoilers.