ALL4SPL

Here you go one of my systems from 1994 era, not my first but before this I really didn't take photo's of anything kinda wished I had. Consisted of an Eclipse 5302 CD player, Kenwood KAC-723 amp (mids/highs), Kenwood KAC-823 amp (subs), MB Quart first series Discus 6.5" Components and Orion XTR 12's I think they were the 2nd gen XTRs maybe first.

The car has 0 gauge big three under the hood, with dual grounds frame/engine block. The ground in the back is also 0 gauge, it's the to body/frame under the rear seats. As for the rest, 95amp stock alternator currently, with a Shuriken BT35 battery under the hood. So yes the electrical could use some beefing up, I am looking at adding a 200amp Tenney Alternator just have to locate(as in find it not under my hood) my ELD and do a bypass on it. Also I think I have my 12s sold, so I will be changing subs for a while, the ones I am ordering will be decided soon, not 100% on which brand PSI etc but I am sticking with 12s and I am going to try a smaller box since everything I have made is 4cuft and up. Shooting for 3cuft with 37.5 sq in of port tuned at 35Hz, using dual 2ohm subs getting .5ohm nominal on the SAZ1500D. If my subs do sell I will probably order the new subs/alternator at the same time since build time will be about the same for them both.

The max dimensions are in the first post, 20"H x 39.5"W x 16"D which gives 5.9cuft net before displacement. As for going from 2 12s to 2 10s and losing output, as it stands I am only giving my saz1500d a 1ohm load, whatever path I take next sub wise will lower the load to .5ohm which will increase the power given to the subs.

I've been told the SAZ1500D will shine at .5ohm, so that was my initial thought to recone my 12s to dual 2s and get the SPL coils at the same time. However that doesn't address the tuning/space issue. I have thought of a single 15, however my depth issue is likely to hinder me using a 15 since my max depth is 16". As for 2 10s doing the desired output I think with subs being as advanced as they are today it really shouldn't be a problem. It's not like it was back in the early 2000s when subs were a lot different. As for the power being split, I can change that slightly but I don't want to run another strand just for my 2ch running my mids and highs.

Great and helpful post Godsmack, this is exactly why I RARELY post on forums asking questions, because I either get random nonsense or flamed. I guess I should expect it by now.

Right now I am thinking the 12s are just starved for breathing room in order to perform well. Hence I was considering going down to 2 10s. As for running sealed, not really liking that idea, ive had sealed way back in the day but for the amount of output I want ported is probably still the best option.

So I am stuck, cannot decide what to do or which direction to even go at this point, need some assistance and I will try to make this short as to avoid the TLDR syndrome. To start off here is what I have currently in the vehicle (a 2009 Honda Fit), (2) Sundown SA 12’s wired to 1ohm on a SAZ1500D. They currently sit in a ported box that is 20”Hx31”Wx16”D, with (3) 4” aero ports 12” long, yielding a box of 4cuft net, tuned at 38Hz subs up port back. While this has been the loudest box I have built, it’s not the only one. I built another 17”x39.5”x16” with (1) 6” aero port tuned at 34Hz sub/port up, and finally another with the same dimensions however this last one was a slot port with 49.5sqin of port area subs up port back. The vehicle is a 2009 Honda Fit, this is a hatchback for those who do not know. The car has the big 3 done under the hood with 0 gauge, as well there is a Shuriken BT35 under the hood. 0 gauge runs to the back distributed to the two amps. I have some money saved from my recent birthday and was going to buy new recones for the subs to put them at dual 2’s and the SPL coils. As well I was going to buy a HO alternator for the car from Tenney Alternators. However before going to those expenses I have been thinking I may need to change sub sizes down to a pair of tens to really get the output/sound I want. I would like the car to play lower (35Hz) very strongly, and I would also like to car to hit a decent 145 on a termlab, which I don’t think is too much to ask out of the equipment I have or I am just crazy and an old fart. The MAXIMUM box size to leave 4 inches behind the box (leaving a space between the box and the hatch door) is 20”Hx39.5”Wx16”D. Giving me 5.9cuft before any displacement, and from the boxes I have done subs up port back is the loudest in this car. As I stated I am not against changing subs down to a pair of 10s, I just want the two things I listed solid play down to 35Hz and a fair spl of 145. Of course anything higher in SPL would be great but I think keeping my expectation lower is better at this point. Right now I am looking at PSI Platform 1 10s with upgraded voice coils and stiffer spiders, but I know there are a TON literally of different subs out there so brand isn’t as important to me as performance and durability. Sundown has done well for me but just not sure if a pair of SA10’s is going to give me what I am looking for. Any input is appreciated, if questions arise simply ask and I will answer them, and thanks for helping an old man out.

Specs where provided from an old friend whos been doing SPL and bandpasses for a long time, just wanted to see some other sundown people input, maybe sean will poke his head in here. The specs I was given was 5.7cuft 1:1 50sqin of port area 8" long. After the suggested BP design I "tried" to mock one up in sketch up. I probably got this all wrong but here is a picture of it with some area's left out to view the measurements. I shortened the port based on 1 shared wall, the way I got the length of the port of 5.25" is that I calculated the box like a standard ported box with torres calc at 50sqin 8" long, got the resulted tuning, then changed it to 1 shared wall, accounting for the difference of 4.5Hz I then adjusted the port lower in length till the same (within .01) tuning was obtained. I hope that made sense. Anyway here is the diagram/photo any input would be helpful as this is my first attempt at doing a BP design and I just kinda winged it based on the data given to me of 1:1 with 50sqin of port area 8" long. The box is 1:1 2.9cuft sealed, 2.9cuft ported 50sqin of port area shortened the port length as detailed above. Input?

The last set of E series subs I installed were a pair of 10s in a ported box tuned to 35Hz on a Crossfire BMF-1000D.

Actually I do hear that slapping and that's the sub unloaded FREE-AIR, no one runs subs Free-air especially these subs. Granted his "rated" power is more than the E series are rated to handle however, all sundown products from my experience are OVER built. I have sold and installed E/D and SA series sundown subs and they have ALL taken more power than rated easily. His amp is "rated" at 1700watts at 1ohm mono, again remember that nominal ratings are just that nominal and not what is seen during music play. Because as frequency changes so does impedance, that coupled with the efficiency of the amp I think he will be fine. As well as long as his amp gain is set properly and not just cranked to max he will be fine. Also most people crank the "bass boost" again another option to remember to leave at 0dB because it's just not efficient. Now I am by NO means an amplifier expert but Jacob has a nice topic on why you should never rely on nominal impedance ratings. Overall he should be perfectly fine with the E series to start out even with that amplifier. http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html Although it says CEA compliant I would really need to see a clamp test before I believe that amp does 1700watts. Anyway the bottom line is he shoud be fine as long as the proper settings are done on the amp and the enclosure is built well.

There, lol

I see some text I forgot, will add that dur...

I finished it up as much as I am gonna do so here are the final shots.

Last update for tonight, got a killer headache and can't focus, so I stopped here.

Other side is in the works!