95stroked1500

i think it's a good sarcastic crack at main stream marketing and their victims. the sub can back up what ever talk they talk, so why not?

if you got the amp from a dealer or direct from us amps, they should fix it for you. i think even if you happen to have bought a "new old stock". i've seen them bend over backwards to make sure the customer get's taken care of.

custom audio sound burney, ca 96013 we haven't brought RE to the floor yet, but it is in the works.

they might have profited per woofer. but i doubt they had the volume they needed being a pretty much online brand with a few real dealers. i bet they shot themselves in the foot with what they did with the MT sales. there a few companies that don't want anything to do with spl because the amount of $ it takes in R&D to produce a nasty sub, is very hard to recoup. i agree, everyone looks to get the best deal and the most for their $. and also, when they're sitting on the couch and can't find a job, they can also remember that doing away with the middle man, just did away with more jobs. and there is the situation where there isn't a dealer for a brand within a hundred miles or more. so having it shipped is the most logical thing.

ok, time for me to vent and rant. i don't think RE was making any $ with their "direct pricing". i could be wrong, but i think RE was about to give up the ghost if they hadn't got bought and straightened up. everyone got it good while prices were so cheap. best to look at it as "promotional prices" to get the line known. towards the end, i recall lot's of people having problems getting ahold of them, getting recones, getting product. i don't think they were in good shape from everyone getting those low ball deals. check out "woofersetc" and then check out "zapco's" home page about buyer beware. some of these roach sites that seem legit, are more full of crap than a bull's pen. it's trash places like these that make people think dealers are a rip off. because half the time, they can buy it online for less than a legit dealer can get it for. or they see it advertised and that site can't even get it. they just "launder" your $ and say it's back ordered for a month. then turn around and push the customer into a diff brand. hell, i've even seen some places selling gear that was never made! they cut and pasted a picture of an idea line, and claim they have them on the shelf! i see people squawking here and there about the XXX price jump. but don't they remember that isn't the same sub as last year? doesn't everyone want a job where they can at least make more than minimum wage? doesn't great speaker and amp companies schooled engineers deserve more than minimum wage for all of their 20 hour days, 7 days a week, hard work in coming up with these lines? don't dealers need to make a little bit of $ to run their shops, pay thier employees, and overhead also? if people were in their shoe's they'd sure agree. so i think the masses of the "nay sayers" need to give it a little more thought rather than just cry because they want someone else to pay for their free ride. i know i sure don't want to work for free and then pay out of my pocket on top of it, just for all the cheapskates thinking someone else should pay to support their audio habbit.

they might be updating their site right now. their lines have changed for this year.... http://www.trutechnology.com/main.htm

i know, that why i said "lol". i did get a chuckle out of that one. and my "what do i know... " was just a pun. not meant offensively. the tru tech 360V plates, us amps design, etc, were just for everyone's general referance. i just threw it in to show that there's diff engineering desings amoung tube amps. they're not all created the same. if we don't post the things we know, then nobody else is going to know either.

tu 600 a little brighter and better in person. this pic you have to look hard for the small orange specs. tru tech is also running 360V on their plates, us amps is only 36V. lol, dirty amps. i remember that one. funny thing is, us amps sync drive design does not have the harmonic distortions like some of the other designs do. and the tubes @ 36V are not going to sound the same as tubes @ 360V. and there's much more to get into about correction circuits in some, etc.. but hey,.... what do i know anyway?

slightly. and i believe it's from the "tube heater".

they are tested against resistors, not inductive loads. power factor doesn't have to do with impedance rise. power factor is the voltage and amperage phase shift that occurs from the inductance of the voice coil. volts x amps. since the peaks are now out of phase (lead/ lag situation), the true power is less than appearant power. it looked like some were on the right path with the cosine idea, and others on another path of figuring in impedance and it's rise. and it takes some good test equip to gather all that info to see what your amp is doing at any one particular time. like mentioned, O-scopes, amp meter,... i could have gotten the conversation all screwed up. i'm turned upside down from working nights. i guess if the info i read entered my brain wrong, i'll get pummeled for it. i have an excuse.... .

lol, any one else catch that mr zeff does an amp test and the zapco gets rated first place. hmmmm, imagine that.

strappable and stackable. how about a series strap with the amps (not referring to subs)!

half of the cars at ces sounded horrible. the us amps was in the group that actually sounded good. vocals weren't dull, subs were hittin', but it wasn't cranked full bore to hear the whole capabilities.

have at it bro, i've got a couple more i'll email you. just hope i remember your email addy still. i didn't take as many pics as i thought i would. as a whole, not much was new and exciting this year.

6 foot amp? i looked at that and thought it was just display. because they get their heat sinks in long lengths and them cut them down for the individual amps. i don't think the speakers are going to be out any time soon. i was told about it being a thought, when jeff was still around. but it wasn't to be passed on. so i never said anything. but since they were sporting some at ces, it's fair game now. there were even diff subs in the demo car than what was on the display board. the car sounded good. so many cars high end sounded like azz. us amps was one of the few that sounded good. see if this link works. it's the first set of image tabs to click on, part way down the page. full size chevy

i have some posted on fullsizechevy.com shows the exterminator line and their subs and highs.

sounds like you need to port it if you want low end out of it. unless you're having a cancellation issue. so i take it you passed up the nuke for these?

stay away from milo amps! want to buy an overrated paper weight? he is one of the big causes why us amps got a bad rap before they got bought. frankenstein amps, not producing claimed power, breaking and NO WARRANTY, etc.. anyone who tries to cut a corner and go cheap, you'll be taking it in the biscuit.

ground zero, radioactive sub, herculiner (bed liner) the box.

humm SVC MT with 10 US Amps 3000DE's? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> lol, they already have to get reconed like mad. that's going to be funny to watch cones pop off and land on the dash.

"far more precise" how? It's late, so my initial logic here on the figures may not be totally accurate....but if the amp, with 1% components played 20-20khz at +/-1db, then you add a 5% error in that level you are now at 20-20khz @ +/- 1.05db. A difference in frequency response of .05db is NOT going to be audible (the MINIMUM for a trained ear is .25db..untrained ~1db).. Distortion differences of .05% are NOT going to be audible. But, on that note.....the premise of the amp challenge is NOT to prove that "all amps sound the same" <{POST_SNAPBACK}> if you're running sine sweep from 20-20k, could sound the same. but if music is involved, it will not. as the tones, accuracies, and dynamics get deviated further away from how they're supposed to be. it's not neccessarily the db's going up or down. like the finer details getting muddied and less seperated. a "C" note going into the amp a a good note, but by the time it comes out, it sounds foul. let's say it goes through 10, +/- 5% components and all are -4% off. that makes it 40% away from where it should be. that's what i was referring to. i only read a little bit. so i need to go back and see what all was discussed.

i read part of it. sure a watt is a watt, if it is accurately measured and stated. but all amps do not sound the same. take a helix who brags about using 1% tolerance components. it's signal is going to be far more precise and accurate than a sony who's components are at least 5% or more. i've heard sonic difference between amps many, many times over. i've tried the xtant full range class D, many brands of class AB, class T, X, DE, etc..

to ensure ample current flow in and out of the amp. i can't be certain, but if you pull the bottom cover and look, you will be able to tell if you have both +'s and -'s internally connected on the board. if they're connected (which that's all i have personally seen that i can recall anyway), then you don't "have to have" both hooked up. but it is always better if you do. you can always just hook up one + and - and see if both sides of the amp work. if not, then you need both sets hooked up.

crystal's pro X2 12 is in your range. if you decide crystal, pm me. i can hook you up.

looks like he's using old school us amp model #'s. and they do have huge power for their foot print. and some speakers just can't hold up to the force of a powerful amp. adhesive joints break, coil windigs blow off the former...... i agree that overdriving the amp is the #1 killer of speakers. but i have also seen speakers that might mechanically take 400 watts, but after a couple miniutes produce the magic spl smoke because they can't thermally take the power for any length of time. and there's plenty of those that do just like he says. need a decimal point, because they can't mechanically or thermally take any where near what they claim. anytime you deal with a high end amp, there is a big difference between that and a "900 watt" sony xplode or fosgate amp. even my old school autotek mx 1300, which was a badd azz, huge class AB, 375 rms x 2 (2 70 amp maxi fuses in the amp). my tu 600 @ 150 x 2 drives my dyns (2 sets) every bit as hard and cleaner than it did. and the autotek killed most other amps out there for it's day. not that i'm siding with him, but i just want to make the point that you can't always judge by what the ratings say. i had one guy bring in some kicker comp subs that he flat destroyed. 2 had a broken cones, another the spider and surround ripped loose, another was siezed up from being thrown out of the gap and cocked sideways. he did it with a us amps and was shocked what power it had for what watt's it claimed. maybe too many people are just used to fake claims, they really don't know what true power can do. he hooked up the amp, turned it on, then just cranked the gain to 3/4. bye bye subs right then and there. $1200 in subs. one time i did a 2 second burp, paused, turned the vol 5 more nothches, burped again and sent coil windings right off the former myself. this was done with a single amp. it happens.