AcIdBuRn83355

ive been working on this for a little while.... while waiting for subs to come in off back order... they finally came in and are installed... tell me what you think. and one it lit up hope u alls like... -AcId-

Its been a while since ive been on here... but i need some help... I'm building an enclosure for my new car (02' focus ZTS) which will house 4 10" woofers firing towards the rear of the car at a slight angle with the deck lid.. (ie 35-45*) question one... is this going to cause a lot of cancelation? question two... i want to build a seperate air chamber to fit the spare tire well... and connect the two chambers to increase my overall air space... will doing that actually do anything for my airspace considering for now... the box is sealed? thanks for any help -AcId-

I always hated the idea of a pocket under my deck... never have liked them, but couldnt find any other installation package... so i figured i could make a switch panel to control my amps or something for it... then i got to looking around on ebay and found that they had a ton of 1/2 din equalizers.... so i ordered one to help counter the effects of cheap-deck-itis come to realize that the pocket is not 1/2 din sized as it was advertised.... i removed the pocket and did some trimming... after it was all said and done... this is what ive ended up with for now.... let me know what u alls think... -AcId-

well... my last project has had a slight... enlargement so to speak... the 2000 Eclipse i did a while back with the oldschool L7 15 in full enclosure got a little bigger.... from this... to this... its not cleaned up or covered yet.... waiting for break-in before i decided if i will port the box or not... then it'll get covered in a blue vinyl to match the car with a black coverboard.... right now... pushing a hair under 750 a piece... something like 748 or so... amp benched at 1496watts rms and is doing nicely pushing these 2 L7 15's... tell me what you think so far.. -AcId- -EDIT- and btw... that dist. block was a temp wiring jobber not done by me... it is now fixed and is no longer mounted where visible... and is wired safely.... just dont have any pics without it...

they are sharing around 8 cu. ft. of airspace.... and with how they are performing during break-in (amp not even beggining to push wattage)... probably gonna end up replacing back glass soon... lol the lows are incredible.... i bumped it up once to heat up the coils... no where near what they will be doing after break-in... and it was getting to the point where it was almost unbearable to stay in the vehicle.... next step is to sound mat the entire vehicle... we've got panels rattling that i didnt even know could rattle... lol -AcId-

its not a hatch... its a sedan with a huge trunk..... and the bottom of the box will be cut out and sealed to the other chamber... -AcId-

alrighty... im building a new system for a friend of mine... he wants to compete in db drag.. its a 2000 eclipse gt v6 pushing around 450-500whp... anyways... ive got to decide which would be louder for the price.... i can get a single Kicker Solo X 12 and push it with the 1200.1... or I can get two L7 15's, which would be more suited for the amp... and both of which would be in vented enclosures tuned to probably low 30's... not sure yet... any suggestions? thanks -AcId-

Im in need of some help... I have a problem that just started recently... at random occasions... my deck will flash off then back on... ushually several times in a row.... but if i turn down the bass... it will stop doing it... then i can change songs.. turn the bass back up... and it will play fine... switch back to the other song and it plays fine.... this cutting out crap is getting really annoying... and its like it only does it right before it should hit hard... ushually after the car has been sitting for a few hours... on the first hard hitting song i put on... the first time its supposed to hit hard.. the deck will flash off then back on... but if i turn down the bass... everythings fine... the deck is an Eclipse 5405... and the amp is a Digital Audio DAB1404 what in the hell is going on??? thanks for any help. -AcId-

factory harness was used... with the proper harness adapter... but it seems to be grounding through the antenna instead of the actual ground line of the factory harness.... which doesnt make sence... im gonna pull the deck the next chance i get and re-ground it, instead of using the harness, and check all the fuses, probably replace them aswell.. thanks for the help.. -AcId-

only when i push the system.... and its starting to get worse... so would it be the ign. source fuse im guessing? i'll check this out tommorow when i get a chance... thanks for the help... -AcId- -EDIT- ive noticed lately that when the system hits hard... the decks lights dim really low but nothing else in the car does this.... what could cause this..? bad deck ground possibly?

I'd go with the US... they are some of the cleanest amps made so sound quality wont be an issue.... and they seem to be quite underrated from what ive seen... and pretty nice price aswell... -AcId-

if an amp is fuses with 2 20amp fuses.. what is the most the amp can put out power wise? i cant find a place that has amp output by fuse rating listed.... Thanks -AcId-

one of my buddies said with a fuse rating of 40 amps, i could expect anwhere between 500-800 watts depending on class and all that good stuff... the amp is a Digital Audio DAB1404 which is rated at 840 x 1 @ 2ohms 600 x 1 @ 4ohms... and fused at 2 x 20amps, that should be close to right... its an a/b class amp.. monoblock... anyways... -AcId-

i need options.... i need an amp that will push 600-700 watts @ 2 ohms at <.01% THD trying to get my ducks in line before i decide what to do... -AcId-

I'm new to the forums... so hello alls... here is my situation... I am getting ready to purchase a US Amps IS-2150 amp... which from what ive heard... on average... pushes 715-720 watts bridged peak and 600 rms @ 4ohms... and am wanting to push 3 Eclipse 6103 10's... I currently have 2 of them... which are both 4ohm SVC... the 3rd may be single or dual vc... depending on how i need to do this... or i can have the two SVC's replaced and get all 3 DVC... my problem is getting the proper ohm load... im not sure how i can do it... if i run them in parrallel... im looking at 1 or 1.3ohms... which im not sure if the amp i want is stable at that load... and if it is... i have no idea to what wattage it would be pushing... if i series them... it would end up being a 12ohm load.... so what can i do to get the correct ohm load... i would prefer as close to 4ohms as i can get... help is much appreciated -AcId- -Note- all stuffed into a 2.5-3cuft sealed box in the trunk of a 99' neon... this could be interesting...

the motors themselves are extremely quiet... so that wont be a problem... just trying to come up with a way to stuff this all in the trunk of a 99 neon... lol -AcId-

i know of atleast two other places selling the same amp for close to the same price... but i have no idea if they are legit or not... but you alls might wanna look into it considering it may be effecting your buisness... neways... i definately need some true numbers on this amp... so i e-mailed us to find out a bit more on the subject... i have a newb question for u alls though... if you mounted 2 10's normal... and 2 10's inverted... in the same sealed enclosure... what would that do towards sq and performance? would phase be an issue? i dont want to adversly effect my sound quality in any way shape or form... but it would look nice... 2 firing at the back seats... viewable when folded down... and two inverted with the motors facing the trunk... of coarse all at angles... with the amp board inbetween... hmmm... anways... -AcId-

http://www.a1bigaudio.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=1397 right now the store isnt open... for some reason or another... but its $219 plus shipping and what not.... and with 1 year mfg warranty... question... is there any way to actualy measure amp output in watts to get an exact number as to what the amp is pushing once its hooked up? thanks -AcId-

$220 new w/ warranty... i think it should work out nicely though now that i think about it... so how may you help me? -AcId-

well.. the place where i purchased everything is going under... so if i want to swap subs... i have to go through the factory which takes too much time... so for now i believe ill run just the two tens.... and i think i'll pick up the IS-2150 to push them... right now they are only being pushed by a little EA2212 amp... hardly 100watts a piece max... so i believe the 200 watt per channel rms of this amp... and considering how clean it is... should work nicely until im ready to sell the subs... thanks for ur alls help... i appreciate it... -AcId- this plan will be continued at a later date...

i believe im gonna go pick up the dvc models so i can run them at roughly 2ohms... so here are the amps ive been looking at.... Power Acoustik A1000DB Lanzar VIBE1800D not really sure of others.... im wanting a monoblock amp pushing a true 700-800watts @ 2ohms... and perferably <.5% thd... i want it to be loud... but i want it to sound good while doing it... and i dont want to pay out the ass for it either... those things dont seem to go together well.... lol -AcId-

question.... if i take these two svc's back and get all three in 4 ohm dvc models..... would this work to bring my ohm load up to a safer level so i dont have to shell out the cash for a 1 ohm stable amp?? thanks for the help again -AcId- -EDIT- and whats the story on this amp.... Power Acoustik A1000DB is it clean? .5% thd seams a bit high to me...

lol... didnt mean to nab ur name... soo... what about a clean amp that would push those subs nicely... i am not wanting to run more than 250watts each if i dont have to... i prefer inbetween 200-250 to each sub... and i need it to be clean... i like sq... and i like it to be loud.. and i like how the 10's respond and sound... someone please point me in the right direction thanks for the help -AcId-