topgun

Then again, I bought it in Vegas after our previous camera died. It was the best thing I found in the budget at the local best buy.

For a P&S I have a Sony HXV9 which is just pretty darn awesome.

I remember years ago when I was shooting film after I had used an 80-200 for awhile how much nicer my 50mm f1.8 lens was once I switched back to it.

And megapixel comparisons is similar to e-penii comparisons.

For anything less than 1k I think it looks like point and shoots are just as good as or trump a budget DSLR.

Fuji x100

It also depends on what equipment you use.

It all depends on how picky you are.

26" seems a bit long. I'll bet you won't notice a ballistics difference in the two for what you are doing.

I've found them labeled as Anderson plus or connectors. Those are on our forklift, and I've seen folks use them for connects on 12v truck winches.

Hoosiers... deadly force on ANYBODY who enters your hoem without permission should be accepted. That broad of a statement is going a bit far...

I wouldn't mind Jack.

Looks like she has plenty of life left. My dad has two that we use on the farm. I think so, only 150k miles on it and the doors even shut properly, no slamming required.

One of the grad students, I put a fuel pump in that the other week. I didn't bring a fuel line disconnect tool and for the life of me I couldn't get the damn thing undone with makshift ones so i had to replace it under the truck, that slightly sucked.

It looks like O'Really auto parts has a 2 ton small hydraulic jack and jack stands for 50$, that'll do for changing a tire on the side of the road. No way in hell would I get under a vehicle with that jack without it being blocked up, but for a tire it'll work.

Hell, this is the Ihop, I should be posting pictures...

Ok, dumb question here... I've never looked for one of these... I'm looking for a 'cheap' floor jack/scissor jack that I can buy to keep in the truck toolbox, it came with a spare but no jack. I'm not going to heave my 3ton floor jack in and out of a toolbox so any recommendations on a small not total piece o'shit jack to buy and keep in it? '94 F150 4x4 with stock sized tires for those who don't know.

RE Audio still exists?

Also Sean, if you have two miter gages, just make the basic crosscut sled, then use a miter gage in each slot to guide the sled down the table. They come with pockets for screws in them, just drop 'em in, screw the sled to the blocks and away you go.

Notice how there is only a ~4" section or so touching the miter gauge, it needs to be longer to get a good cut, I was fighting that one just to see if it could be done.

Sean, here is a quick picture of cutting an 8" tube with a standard miter gauge. To make it lots more effective one needs to screw a piece of 3/4" or 1" wood to the front face to give it more area to square the tube off of. If you notice the block of wood on the right side, if the board is longer than it is wide it is a pain to use the fence and it makes it 'walk' into the blade at the end of a cut causing f' ups and kickbacks. So you can use a block to keep your distance set, but if it stops before you get very far into the blade you are good to go.

Sean. For making a quick miter gauge with a just a table saw I would cut a strip of 1/2" or so plywood, something that isn't any taller than the depth of your table slots, and shave it down on the saw until it was a tight yet smooth running fit. then I would make my base, and end stops for the sled, put the sled on top of the table and then while my strips were in the slot, square my sled to the blade, then affix the world together and you should have a pretty decent sled without any tools other than a table saw.

I just cut one without a spacer block and a standard miter gauge, kind of a pain in the ass. A taller miter gauge would make it lots easier.

You can cheat without a crosscut sled. Let me see if I can mock up something for you Sean.

Shouldn't take more than 10min max.