topgun

Tried to grab spinning sheet metal? SRSLY? Yes people react and things like that happen. Yep. Guy was drilling holes using a regular drill bit without using powerfeed, caught, pulled up, and he instinctively went to catch it since 'hey, it was moving, it is not supposed to do that'. Wham, wham, wham, three large chunks of skin off three fingers. To those who don't know this yet. GO BUY A STEP DRILL FOR DOING THIN SHEET WORK. Yes, they are expensive, but yes, they are awesome.

Good to hear. I'm not a big fan of multiplayer since it seems like I get dumped in games with guys 40+ levels ahead of me and I get smoked every time. I do love the campaigns though, so good to hear it is well done.

So what dumb move did he do to do that lovely cut? Hopefully he learns and has zero permanent damage. I took a guy to the local health center the other month for trying to catch a spinning piece of sheet metal in the drill press.

That sucks.

So how is it?

I haven't picked up codbo2 yet, probably won't get there tonight.

Series of stupid events and I had to deal with a lot of them. Most of which is ultimately my responsibility and or fault. I am being a whiney bitch. It will hopefully pass sooner rather than later. Quit being a whiney bitch and realize you can't change everything. Lots easier said than done. Indeed. The hardest thing to do is stop worrying. Biggest problem the W has. Now its hair loss due to side effects of the immune suppressants that causes the worrying.

Series of stupid events and I had to deal with a lot of them. Most of which is ultimately my responsibility and or fault. I am being a whiney bitch. It will hopefully pass sooner rather than later. Quit being a whiney bitch and realize you can't change everything. Lots easier said than done.

Hows BO2?

halo 4 is pretty sweet. i like the new direction they're going with the game I think it sucked. Took me 8 hours to beat on normal with a couple skulls on. That is not right. I did like the addition of the new weapons and no more Flood! 8 hours and not on easy? Seems a little short to me. No Flood? That would be nice, they got rather annoying.

My grandparents caddy has blocks on the pedals to get my grandmother further away from the airbag.

Got it reserved, but who knows when I'll pick it up.

Oh and fuck T-Mobile. Instead of the W's contract being up in February, it somehow got changed to fricking August. Now I'm going to be stuck paying more money for their damn screwup.

my co has the same view on patents If I recall, Vishay has no patents on strain gages for the same reason.

I thought you didn't want to fix your own cars anymore? I don't either. I hate working on my own shit. That is why all my cars are Buicks (with 3800 Buick engines) and my truck is a Nissan. I don't mind it as much if the car is worth a damn. I've been impressed with newer Buicks, and that 3800 seems to be about as bullet proof as the 4.3L was.

It's not terribly bad. I have done a ton of them, and can generally get them done in ~2.5 hours. Book time is 6 hours or so.I suggest you get the premium FelPro set. The steel with rubber... the plastic intake gaskets are worthless. You absolutely MUST torque the lower intake manifold. The gaskets are delicate, and the torque is very light. If you get the FelPro gaskets they will have the torque listings on the instructions included. Also, carefully clean all the old gasket material from the plenum surface. Remove the plastic retainers on the lower manifold from this surface as well. The ends of the plenum have a propensity to crack if the surface contact is not perfectly smooth. I can't tell you how many times I have had a shadetree and even a professional's work come to me with odd screaming noises when it is cold, or misfires, or lean codes and found the plenum cracked. Be careful of the pushrods. You will have to remove them to pull the intake gasket. They are 2 different lengths. The intake pushrods are shorter. Put the longer exhaust pushrod in an intake spot and you will have a pretzel. I have a cardboard box I have punched holes in and place rags inside it (to absorb the oil from the pushrods). Just mark the box "front of engine" on the appropriate side and it will be simple and mindless to reinstall the pushrods correctly/ Thanks, it looks like its easier to pry the rockers up and slip the pushrods out rather than some people (maybe the book) listing to pull the coils/etc and unbolt the rockers and do it that way. Nice to know FelPro puts the torque spec on the package, something like 115 in-lb and then 18ft-lb if I remember right. Do they put the torque sequence on there too? I'll have to borrow someones garage/shop for this one, don't want to open up the engine in the parking lot here. I'll do a lot in a parking lot, but since I don't have to I won't open it up out here in the middle of the world. It doesn't look to bad, but the father in law already 'fixed' it once. If I remember correctly he just retorqued the bolts when he pulled it off and found them loose, so the gasket must be shot. One of the bolts was loose when I pulled the throttle body off to see what was up and I tightened it back up to the torque spec of my calibrated finger. I suggest pulling the coil pack and removing the valve cover. The valve covers actually go over the top of the intake. On cars, I remove the alternator, coil pack and module assembly on the bracket (2 13mm nuts on the back side and 2 10mm bolts on the plenum, and I mean the hex size, not the actual bolt/nut size). If I am doing it on a van, I will leave the rear valve cover on as long as it is not leaking, and twist the intake out of the hole. I have a ratcheting flex head wrench that I can fit under the valve cover to loosen the rockers (as my tool will not fit in there with the VC on) to remove the pushrods. Honestly, with a car it only takes about 5 minutes more to remove the rear valve cover and all peripherals. On Vans, this adds at least 45 minutes to an hour depending on the van's overhang. I actually have a tool that allows me to pry the rockers up to get the pushrods out. If you don't have the proper tool, doing so with a prybar sounds like a busted up finger to me. Here is the Lisle tool at Sears: http://www.sears.com...=32-192219361-2 It is the same tool I use. I got mine at NAPA. The store manager owed me a favor, and this tool was part of the payment Yeah, I think it is 28 in lbs, 115 in lbs and 216 in lbs (or 18 ft lbs ). The sequence is basically start with the 4 inner bolts and move around in a clockwise pattern. Do the 2 inner angled bolts next then the 2 outers. Sounds good to me. I was planning on buying that rocker pry tool for this job when I get to it. I do love how GM seems to make everything 10mm and 13mm inside the engine bay.

Hell, don't even have a go fast toy to fix crap on either, just a slow f'ing pickup and an almost as anemic car. I did see a Mark VII on craigslist the other day with heads, cam, intake, and full exhaust that seemed pretty snazzy for a highway cruiser that tempted me.

I am getting tired of fixing crap though. I fix crap at work, I fix crap at work # 2, and I fix my own personal crap.

I do like the box idea with the pushrods too.

It's not terribly bad. I have done a ton of them, and can generally get them done in ~2.5 hours. Book time is 6 hours or so.I suggest you get the premium FelPro set. The steel with rubber... the plastic intake gaskets are worthless. You absolutely MUST torque the lower intake manifold. The gaskets are delicate, and the torque is very light. If you get the FelPro gaskets they will have the torque listings on the instructions included. Also, carefully clean all the old gasket material from the plenum surface. Remove the plastic retainers on the lower manifold from this surface as well. The ends of the plenum have a propensity to crack if the surface contact is not perfectly smooth. I can't tell you how many times I have had a shadetree and even a professional's work come to me with odd screaming noises when it is cold, or misfires, or lean codes and found the plenum cracked. Be careful of the pushrods. You will have to remove them to pull the intake gasket. They are 2 different lengths. The intake pushrods are shorter. Put the longer exhaust pushrod in an intake spot and you will have a pretzel. I have a cardboard box I have punched holes in and place rags inside it (to absorb the oil from the pushrods). Just mark the box "front of engine" on the appropriate side and it will be simple and mindless to reinstall the pushrods correctly/ Thanks, it looks like its easier to pry the rockers up and slip the pushrods out rather than some people (maybe the book) listing to pull the coils/etc and unbolt the rockers and do it that way. Nice to know FelPro puts the torque spec on the package, something like 115 in-lb and then 18ft-lb if I remember right. Do they put the torque sequence on there too? I'll have to borrow someones garage/shop for this one, don't want to open up the engine in the parking lot here. I'll do a lot in a parking lot, but since I don't have to I won't open it up out here in the middle of the world. It doesn't look to bad, but the father in law already 'fixed' it once. If I remember correctly he just retorqued the bolts when he pulled it off and found them loose, so the gasket must be shot. One of the bolts was loose when I pulled the throttle body off to see what was up and I tightened it back up to the torque spec of my calibrated finger.

Come on K-State! Don't f' up the #1 spot!

So how was it? The wife keeps making comments about a couples massage.

The good news is it looks a considerable amount easier than the coolant crossover gasket I did on my Northstar.

Looks like I get to do an intake gasket on a GM 3.1L. Thankfully it isn't leaking into the oil, no discoloration or milky color in the oil at all.

That is surprisingly a nice looking plywood box. I've never been a fan of stained plywood. It all depends on how its built as to setting drinks on it. Setting my feet on it would bother me more than a drink.