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Everything posted by topgun
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Sonic T-amp from parts express would fit that budget, not sure on the actual size but it would be close. *edit* Specs on the T-amp (60 bucks) Power output: 2 x 9 watts (4 ohms @ 0.04% THD + N), 2 x 15 watts (4 ohms @ 10% THD + N), 2 x 10 watts (8 ohms @ 10% THD+N) *Efficiency: Up to 88% *Signal to noise ratio: 102 dB *Dimensions: 1.18" H x 6" W x 5.5" D.
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Only 3 grand? :( How about five Spawn of Frugel Horns Would be fun... I <3 you and your ideas Jim.
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The only thing with this project that involves my wallet is money going back into it. I just want to build a high end surround sound setup since I've never done it. It'll still be better than anything they could by at best buy for that budget though, thats for sure.
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They don't want their home theater to beat a commercial theater in quality. Hell I like the audio better at my place than the local theater even though mine is 2ch. I still think I can make something pretty decent for that budget.
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Damn, the budget for the home theater got decreased. No more Dayton HF/Usher/Peerless 3-ways and dual IXL 18.4's Budget is capped at 2500-3000 for everything including projector. Time to come up with new speakers.
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Hmm, do I want to spec it out with the Dayton 1000w plate amp or get a rack amp... Its looking like dual IXL 18.4's currently. It might get scaled back to one woofer though. *Oh yea, they will be ported*
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Working on finishing up the parts list for a home theater install. I might have to scale it back some though... Its looking like it might go over the budget.
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Yep. Turn the volume down a little bit.
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Happy birthday man!!!
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I most certainly did. APPRECIATED Hell I did tonight too, had a good time drinking fri-sun this weekend.
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I most certainly did.
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Last night was interesting, local wedding dance, the bar kinda emptied my wallet though...
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My brother stopped by this afternoon, his comment was that he finally figured out wtf I was. I'm not an audiophile, I'm a speakerphile because I care more about the speakers than the music.
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Damn, my roommate is acting like one goof sob tonight.
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Anone need a Weston Current Transformer model 461? Old school equipment...
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First off, you got a pretty decent deal on the amp. You should be able to turn around and sell it for some extra cash if you want to. The amp will not put out 2400 watts either, ~1,800 is a better rating for it. Also, do not take the casing apart to look at the internals, the screws are utter crap and you will most likely strip the threads off of them if you aren't really careful. Since you said you don't need a crossover I'm assuming your using it for mains? Just an fyi, I did notice an improvement in SQ when I switched to using my QSC amps on my mids over my behringer. Also, don't get a behringer preamp either, get something else. For your RCA to XLR cables I picked mine up from b&h photo, good place to deal with. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/4201/RC...XLR_Cables.html
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I'm out. Later ya'll.
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I'm working on making my MTM's pretty, they are the 7" Dayton Reference and a Morel MDT29 setup, I'm thinking of trying to sell them for ~800$. Any idea on if that is a reasonable price? They will be sealed with triple coats of polyurthane then a piano black finish. Drivers are NOT flush mounted either. Also, I was thinking about making a grill setup for them using magnetic grill guide studs and grill cloth to cover the drivers to help make them look pretty.
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Indeed. There is a list that was started last week in the grad office down at the shop titled "Dumb statements/questions". He holds 75% of the spots on the list.
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The other option was to just stick the entire frame under the big hyd. actuator and just loading the concrete till it broke, but due to the instability of that alignment we decided that wouldn't be the best idea.
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He wanted us to screw down a separate set of nuts, compress the springs further, then take the specimen out and then back the loaded nuts off. In order to unscrew the nuts with a load on them involves 2 guys with 2x4's holding the frame from moving, and a 3rd guy on a 5' cheater bar attached to the end of a 1.5" combination wrench, you can only turn the nuts ~1/2 turn at a time, 3 nuts having to unscrew about 5turns. Not happening.
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Last time work got fun and exciting a professor came out and bitched... He is a jakcalope anyways. There were these big creep specimen frames that had concrete blocks in 'em loaded to like 40,000lbs and they had to be taken out. They were smashed in between two 1.5" think steel plates with springs on one side and tightened down with nuts on threaded rod. Instead of having to unscrew the nuts which was NOT easy. We took them outside and smashed the concrete out with a sledge hammer. There was already one professor out there, 2 grad students, and 1 other shop employee, then the other Cap't dumbass came out and wanted to do it some utterly ludicrous way. Our way was fine, didn't hurt anything, had it all under control, and he came out and started bitching when we were halfway through the last one. So we went back inside and waited for him to leave. Sidenote, using a 10lb sledge on concrete thats under load is fun
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But then there is the issue of what last longer and which breaks down more over time etc etc... Not a factor. The time it would take for the joints to actually break down would only matter in fine home audio. No one keeps a woofer box long enough to matter. The places where it would matter is heirloom style home audio speakers, and the people building them know what the hell they are doing anyways. Not even a factor in a harsher car enviroment? Highly doubt it.