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Everything posted by topgun
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That is even more retarded.
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That is really gay.
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It also depends on what velocity you are firing at too for stabilization, how much is actually in contact with the barrel, what the magazine will load, etc. Just try and see what you find.
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Exactly. For the heavier projectile the recomend a tighter than 1 turn per 10 inch. I think the 110 BA savage ends up with a 1:9. Is there any practical reason to use a single stage loader? Would it be more exact? From what I understand it allows for a larger level of error. Single stage is generally cheaper, and people are not as afraid of them or setup as a progressive. If you load only a very little and want to do it on a budget, a single stage might be the way to go. If you want to load in any sort of volume a progressive is the ticket. Single stage, I can load ~75 rounds in an hour of .45ACP Progressive, I can load ~300 rounds in an hour of .45ACP
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Barrel twist will also decide on what projectiles you can use too as to what it will stabilize.
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If you end up getting a .338 I would do some searching on snipershide for other people who load it and see what they are using for cases/bullets/powder etc. I am certainly not going to go back to loading on a single stage though, no way you can get me to spend that much time and make that little amount of ammo.
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Single Stage is when you pull the handle, one operation is completed. Progressive press is one pull of the handle can do multiple operations on multiple shells at once. Say on .45's, 4 pulls of the handle on my press will spit out 4 shells. 4 pulls on a single stage will yield one round on a single stage.
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Now for .45's I have a dedicated Dillon Square Deal B, it is a press that is made for only straight wall pistol cases, it will never change from .45 to anything in all of its life most likely. I don't load rifle right now and whenever I do it'll be on a Dillon 550 or 650. If you hear the rationale that you can't load precision rifle rounds on a progressive press, that is a load of horse shit. The top people in long range rifle load on modified 550's (read David Tubbs) and he kicks everyones ass. Now if you can find a used Dillon Square Deal B for cheap (I got mine for 75$) already set up to load .45's or something, go ahead and pick it up. Its only shortcoming is the fact is a physically small form factor so occasionally its a pain in the ass. Then if you want to load something like .338's on a single stage get something like a RCBS rock chucker or a Forester Co-Ax (pretty much the single stage that Jesus would load on). Buy good carbide dies (read RCBS) with the micrometer adjust on it for your precision rifle, find some old foggie around that has been loading for eternity and make friends. You may be surprised what they will just give you.
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Don't worry about the 7.62x39 ammo for reloading, not worth it. Ok. I will say this as many times as I have to on a reloading press. Buy a Dillon 550 or 650 the first damn time! I can load .45's for ~7$ a box of 50$, .338 is so damn expensive you basically have to reload it, and .308 might as well roll your own too. The nice thing with reloading is you can get exactly what you want tailored to your rifle.
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What calibers and volume of rounds are you looking to reload?
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I think the killer on the minigun would be ammo to feed it....
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On the glass, what kind of budget you looking at for glass? A good place to start looking at reviews http://www.snipercentral.com/scopereviews.htm
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Hunting with a .50BMG is just fine if you want to turn any living creature into a blob of jello like goo. Now hunting the wiley locomotive you may need to just buy a Dillon minigun.
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Teh M is gone! Any bets on how long till a photo is up of a new M in the driveway?
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For glass you had better got with a scope with turrets, and the same units on both the reticle and turrets. Something like a mil/mil setup, and get a laser range finder as well.
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Sucks to hear about the Sled and work.
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Smashed on a sunday closing one ety to type corre ctly. I love college.
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I've always gotten mine from friends. One of these days I'm going to buy a real one, getting tired of worn out couches.
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Need to put a new half shaft in the ole car one of these weeks, figure while I'm doing it might as well stick a new Timken hub on it too.
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I like the idea of the case being the face hugger shell.
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First off. Do not take your fuses out, that is asking for trouble. You will not see any noticeable voltage loss over them, don't even think about pulling them out.
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Interesting alternative to a key ring. Keyport – Slide, Blades and Accessories
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Just working on a resume over here, slow day at work.
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I'm running Dark... Hmm, maybe its not available to all.
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Have cable in the apartment now, first time in 3 weeks, haven't really missed it...