topgun

Its not just the strokes, it is what you do with the strokes.

I would also radius the sink corners as much as possible since sharp edges and concrete don't exactly go together. Other than that looks good.

I'd be very wary of having bare steel in concrete in constant contact with water. Last thing you want is in a few years to have rust start showing up on your sink top.

I went to a local haunt last night. I was surprised at how many animatronics they had in use, and they were pretty cool too. They had a claustrophobic room that I hadn't seen before, inflatable air bladders on each side that were 6' tall or so and you had to squeeze your way through them in a zig zag to get to the other side. *Pssst* You need to incorporate this into your haunt. http://www.flickr.com/photos/nightmaresfearfactory/with/6124696671/

Ah, I am pouring a sink/countertop and mixing the sand, rock and portland cement AND color which means I have to mix the living shit out of it. I don't own a wheel barrow either and have to have a big enough container to do it in one pour. Was hoping you had something clever that would relay to that Thanks though. I would advise you to get a concrete mixer in that case. I despise mixing concrete and would rather buy it ready for pouring or hire a mixer. Life is so much easier with a mixer. I was going to use the Vitamix. Actually I had thought a mixer was a good plan. Was hoping to not pay to rent it though. *out of curiosity since I will mix too much, what do you do with the leftover when you do that? I helped a guy do a concrete hearth place the other day. How big of pour are you doing? For polishing you are going to want something stronger than ~8,000psi so you don't pull the cement paste out when polishing. I doubt anything off of the redi-mix truck will do that in any reasonable about of time. For the higher strength I'd suggest looking at a lower water-cement ratio and adding plasticizers to keep it workable. Oh and vibrate it well too, along with smacking the sides of the form work with a rubber mallet. Kwik-crete sells a 10-12K psi mix around here and acrylic is readily available as well. I'd just mix it straight with the acrylic and skip the water. Acrylic? wtf. You guys are going to make me research Acrylic polymer increases flexural & tensile strength and abrasion resistance of the concrete mix. Usually known as polymer modified concrete or polymer modified cement, its used a lot for decorative concrete jobs, such as countertops. I've actually never played with acrylic as an add mixture. The one we did was a mortar mix using a mix of white cement and type III monarch, metakaolin, sand, brown coloring, and of course water. The reinforcement was a carbon fiber mesh that they use in architectural precast panels. Heres a link to metakaolin. http://www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=51 I would look into using a super plasticizier to help the workability, if you just add enough water to get it there you may blow the compressive strength. We actually do small trial mortar batches in a regular kitchen aid mixer. For the most part they scale, but the full size batch always seems to come in at higher strength than the trial batch. It might be something to do with the mixing action. You are also going to need a real mixer to do this, any sort of clumps in the cement you'll see in the polish. What kind of surface are you pouring on to keep it flat?

Nicely done! Getting people out of any building in 4 minutes is an accomplishment.

I've built walls before.

That answer is a yes.

Ah, I am pouring a sink/countertop and mixing the sand, rock and portland cement AND color which means I have to mix the living shit out of it. I don't own a wheel barrow either and have to have a big enough container to do it in one pour. Was hoping you had something clever that would relay to that Thanks though. I would advise you to get a concrete mixer in that case. I despise mixing concrete and would rather buy it ready for pouring or hire a mixer. Life is so much easier with a mixer. I was going to use the Vitamix. Actually I had thought a mixer was a good plan. Was hoping to not pay to rent it though. *out of curiosity since I will mix too much, what do you do with the leftover when you do that? I helped a guy do a concrete hearth place the other day. How big of pour are you doing? For polishing you are going to want something stronger than ~8,000psi so you don't pull the cement paste out when polishing. I doubt anything off of the redi-mix truck will do that in any reasonable about of time. For the higher strength I'd suggest looking at a lower water-cement ratio and adding plasticizers to keep it workable. Oh and vibrate it well too, along with smacking the sides of the form work with a rubber mallet.

I'm actually not looking for a Chevy, but i'll buy anything that comes along for the right price. Not very thrilled about an unknown Chevy, and zero desire for a Dodge, but a Ford I'm fine with.

It's either a v6 or a v6. Could be any of them Lol, typing > me.

Ah damn. Found a '95 Chevy truck on craigslist on said had a broken starter bolt and selling for 800 OBO, had to move. I thought, sweet, someone who can't work on their car and needs it gone. Call them up, more than 200k miles, not sure if its a v6 or v6, 2wd, and the real kicker was all the tires are flat, and the battery is dead. Yea, not touching for more than about 300$.

Start out with brazing, then move on to stick/arc, then move to MIG. I would get on some welding forums. You're either good at it or you're not. There's no such thing as a mediocre welder. Thanks, I'm going to look into a cheap arc welder from HF and go from there. No. Buy an old lincoln stick welder. Find a buddy who can actually weld, not just says he can, or take some night classes at the local community college. You are not going to be able to teach yourself welding. You need someone to tell you what you are doing wrong.

Start with Arc, TIG, or Oxy/fuel

For your tractor? Yep, amazing machines. Rated at 28hp and I've seen one exceed 3500ft lbs at 250rpm. Sometimes technology takes a step back. Plus gotta love something you have to fuel with a fire you build! Sweet. Time for a road trip up to MN, steam tractors are so cool.

Whether you like Apple products or not, the man changed the world.

If they can knock you over, R2 would be teh fucked. So true, so true.

I'm jealous.

Quit having such wild frolics with teh woman. Absolutely not. Would you? No better reason to be injured, next to wounded in combat. They can be similar in danger level though. Agreed.

Quit having such wild frolics with teh woman.

I bought the old man this light the other month. It seems like a pretty nice light, and runs on AA's for ease of finding batteries. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041NE8TG Along with one of these for field work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y7GZG8

The SureFire G2 is a good light as well. A plastic casing is something to really consider if you ever hold a light in your mouth while working, little easier on the ole teeth than aluminum.

Don't get anything with a 'strike' bezel, all it will do is tear up clothing and provide no real purpose. If you want to hit something with a flashlight get a maglight with an LED conversion.

Not a bad place to browse. http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/combatlights1.html

I carry a JetBeam Jet-1 Pro, its a single AA Cree LED light, it works great for a carry around light, love it. I also use a SureFire 6p, its an incandescent light though and takes the CR123a batteries. I've had good luck with anything by SureFire, iNova, Fenix, and JetBeam. For the most part, generally regard anything with multiple LED's as gimmicky and not worth the time.