ralstonballa2413
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Everything posted by ralstonballa2413
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is there a rason why you are limited to a 1.1 cu ft box now? you would want to go a little bigger if you get a 15" Q.
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OK I will save up but with the BL what options should I consider or leave it stock? I want 2 speakers All the options are explained in the Fi Car Audio section under Fi Techinical then BL Enclosure Recommendations. They explain what each option is and what type of a setup it is useful in. This will help explain the BL completely and even give you the box sizes that they have tested and found to be optimal.
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Which is better for alpine MRP-M2000? 18" BTL dual1 or dual 2?
ralstonballa2413 replied to DBZ's topic in General Fi
well if you consider "better" to be more power, then you would want to buy the btl with dual 2 ohm coils to wired in parallel down to 1 ohm. but to be honest, if you cant answer a question like that for yourself, im willing to bet you dont have electrical needed to support 2000 rms. you might want to do a little more research before you go ahead and buy that amp and sub. running 2000 rms for extended periods of time is going to require a high output alternator, a couple decent batteries, and 0 guage wire. and you really cant skimp out on buying electrical upgrades, or will fry your amp and possibly the sub. buying all that electrical equipment new might run you up to a 1000 bucks for 2000 rms. ive also heard alpine amps dont put out their rated power, but i cant say for sure. big systems cost big $$$ The amp is 2 ohm stable so you need to get the dual 1 not dual 2 but he is right that you need a good electrical upgrade to run something like this. on anything this size you dont want to go cheap on any part of it especially the electrical. -
Which is better for alpine MRP-M2000? 18" BTL dual1 or dual 2?
ralstonballa2413 replied to DBZ's topic in General Fi
get the dual 1. there are diagrams on here. im sure someone can post one on here if you dont know how to do it. -
the Q is not for you. take everyones advice and look for a different sub that is not made for SQ. if you want it to be a Fi sub then save up and get the BL. Dont regret making a decision just because you dont have a little patience to save up.
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i was looking into the SAE1200D? What do you guys think? anything else you would recommend? and sorry for being kinda ignorant but im lost as far as all the add-on's they have available to put on your sub. and if any are really needed for the set-up i have i mind. that would be a good choice but many people suggest going to the SAZ line because they can be strapped in case you want to go for a larger install in the future. the SAZ1500D could be another option to look at. if you go into the fi technical section under the topic SSD enclosure recommendations (its pinned so its on the top) it has information of each option that can be added to the SSD and what it does. it also shows the enclosure they recommend having them placed in.
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it sounds like he is looking to be as loud as possible and 2 12's should be louder than 1 15 if put into the proper enclosures. the single 15 would be cheaper but the 2 12's should be louder and still fit into his price range so thats why i suggested that route instead of a single 15. Not neccessarily, but most instances you are right (more cone area does equal louder) but it depends on the equipment being used also. very true... sorry i needed to bold the should's in there. it is very dependent on the install.
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it sounds like he is looking to be as loud as possible and 2 12's should be louder than 1 15 if put into the proper enclosures. the single 15 would be cheaper but the 2 12's should be louder and still fit into his price range so thats why i suggested that route instead of a single 15.
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i didnt think you would be able to fit the 15's... happy you arent going to try to cram them into a small area. the 12's should sound better since you will be able to give them the proper room they need. since you want it to sound good and get loud you should shoot within the 32-36hz range. what amp were you looking at getting to power these?
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the BTL's will be the loudest, followed by the BL, then the SSD. the SSD is a good choice just put it in a good enclosure. with $800 for an amp and a sub you should probably look into the SSD especially if you are looking to get 2. how much room will you have for the box will determine if you can fit 15's or if you should just stick to 12's.
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you should look into the SSD, BL, and BTL since you want to get LOUD. they all will be good just see which one fits into the price range and you have enough room to make a proper enclosure. you will love the results.
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New amps new subs........
ralstonballa2413 replied to cheese20323's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I would go for the SA-8's because you dont have enough room to properly port the 2 10's. -
Great communication and very fast response. Shipped quickly without any problems and looked great when received. I have had them for about a month now with no issues at all. Hope he sells more things I need in the future.
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amp for highs
ralstonballa2413 replied to basshead123's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Tech N9ne - Killing you -
I would not recommend tuning a sub up to 40 hz because it doesnt sound very good tuned that high. Output would probably a little less with the SA sub because I would assume you would tune it in a 30-35hz range and it will sound much better than the aq hdc did in the 40hz enclosure.
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If youre going for output then a single 12 in a ported enclosure should be louder than a single 15 in a sealed enclosure. Just make a good ported enclosure for a 12 and you will be impressed with what you hear.
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Sae-1200d or Saz-1500d on stock electrical
ralstonballa2413 replied to fearlessgangsta's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
That should be fine. I think they usualy suggest the HC1400 for a starting battery. -
Sae-1200d or Saz-1500d on stock electrical
ralstonballa2413 replied to fearlessgangsta's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
You will have to atleast do the big 3. If you were going to just put a battery or two in the back I'm sure you will still have some dimming of lights but if your only going to have the car for a year it would probably be fine. Can't be 100% sure but I think you will have dimming lights. -
The sealed 12" Q will sound close to the 10" type R ported in output. I do agree that if you go with the 15" Q that you should make it between 2.2 and 2.3 cu ft. I have tried it in a 2.6 cu ft sealed enclosure and it sounded great even on rock but slightly smaller would have been better. I would compare the sealed 15" Q to a previous setup I had of 2 sealed 12" kicker cvrs in output so it will get plenty loud especially if you dont listen to rap a lot (might even have to turn the sub down a little). Either way you go you will be more than happy with your decision.
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He first gets it sent to him from sundown and then fixes it thats the 7-10 days. then you have to factor in maybe a day to ship to you.
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Been out if the game for 12 years a few questions about Q
ralstonballa2413 replied to Stevis's topic in Fi Products
The SQ on these are simply amazing A good amp for 2 12s would be the SAZ-2000D. Just make sure you do the electrical upgrades. I have used my 15" Q in a 2.4 cu ft sealed after all displacements and loved it then tried it in a 4.1 cu ft tuned to 31hz and love it even more but mine has a bp option which isn't suppose to perform as well sealed. The output is much greater in the ported enclosure and the SQ is still great but in a sealed enclosure these will still get very loud (louder than the 3 w6's you had). For speakers you'll just have to listen to a lot of them and decide on the set you like the most. (hardest thing to choose in my opinion) The SAX-100.4 is a great amp for any SQ setup. -
Head Unit turning on, but not turning on
ralstonballa2413 replied to dvalue's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
is it playing music because sometimes my pioneer hu will not illuminate and when i move the faceplate part of it then itll turn back on but mine will play music when it is not illuminated -
what kind of electrical upgrades have you done? you could get a saz-1500d right now for $425 and you could get a fully loaded BL 15 for about $325 and your still about $50 under your total budget. if you haven't done any electrical upgrades yet then you should consider doing atleast the big 3 before trying to run a system like this. A little more information would be nice to get like what kind of car you have and the room you have for a box.
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I also have a grand am and I saw what you were doing for the electrical upgrades. Just something I had with my grandam is that the upgrades you are doing wont be enough to help with your system. The yellow top wont be enough as I have figured out with my car dimming with just a Brutus 2010d even with the big 3 in 1/0 and all other wiring also in 1/0. You should look into something a little more. Also you should do the big 3 first or while you are putting in the alternator. It makes it much easier then going back and doing it later and you have to do it for a 200+ amp alternator anyways.
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Frying alternator...overload or not
ralstonballa2413 replied to Hanapi's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Dont you have to have that smaller pulley for the alt to produce the correct amount of amps that its is suppose to. Replacing the smaller pulley with a larger one would make it produce much less than what it is suppose to so it would basically be a stock alternator again.