ralstonballa2413

The slope is based on your opinion. Play around with it a little until its to your liking. The 24db slope will block out almost all the sound past the filter while the 12db will slope much more gradually and you will still be able to hear some of the frequencies below it. Adjust the slopes and the frequency until you find out how you want it to sound. Tuning your system is not something that takes a couple minutes. It needs to take a few hours to get it sounding right.

The 50-500hz is the frequency range for the high pass filter. The 1x 10x button is set 1x if you want the frequencies to be 50-500hz and 10x if you want them to be 500-5000hz. The 12db and 24db button is the slope that the filter is set.

Do you have the electrical system to back up a 2500+ watt system? $1000 is an awefully small budget to try to beat a system that is probably closer to the $2000-2500 range. Any system should last far longer than a year if you are smart with the volume and set you amp up correctly. You may want to save up a little more and get good products that will help you get what you need. And dont plan on using a small box when trying to get loud. You may want to think about this new system a little more so you can get what you actually are looking for.

I had the same problem with a 4 cu. ft. box around the 31hz area. Try a little smaller ported box or go sealed. I did 2.6 cu. ft. but I would go a little smaller like 2.2-2.4 range. This is all based on my opinion and how it sounded in my car so it might not be the same for you.

If you are in Scottsbluff then you would be better off going to events in Colorado. The closest Nebraksa event to you is in Kearney which is about 4 hours away. I think you are only 3 hours from Denver. USACi has two events this weekend in a couple cities just north of Denver but that is probably the closest you will be able to get. Being that far west is a pretty bad location for just about any events. I did not think you would be quite that far away from a bigger city.

There are a few competitions in Nebraska. You actually just missed one last month but in the next 2 or 3 months there is atleast 2 more competitions that I know of right now. You should go and compete as there are some decent setups there, but you would definitely stand a chance with scores like that. Just curious to know what the 3 shops are that you talk about and which are bad and the one that is good? And do you work at a shop installing car audio in Nebraska? If so, what shop is it? I might have to come check out your car to see what you are using.

If you ever plan on strapping another amp with it later than go for the SAZ if not the SAE is just fine. Whichever is cheaper is what I would do.

No one has any idea what it will sit at now as every car is different but it will make it more stable then it was before the big 3.

If it has a gain adjustment on it then you may have to reset that to match your new headunits output vs. your old stock heaunits output. This could be a reason for the much louder output now vs your stock

Does the factory amp have adjustments on it?

Did you use the factory ground for the head unit because sometimes you need to make a new (better) ground. That could be causing some of your static issues.

You will have to build the box in the trunk if you are going to go with this option and you need to make sure that you can still get the sub in there once it is built. You would be much better off with 1 15" or 2 12". Its going to take much more work than you think it will. If its haed to fit 1 18" then it will be even harder to fit 2 15". We are all trying to help you make your setup better and that means you need to give it the proper amount of air space in the box and also around the box.

If your stock electrical is as bad as mine was on my 99 Grand Am then you need any help you can get. Definitely do the Big 3. Are you getting dimming because I had some dimming with only about 700 watts on the stock electrical.

Some of these will be adjusted to your liking but here are the approximate ranges and exact locations these should be in: Amp Settings Low pass filter (can be controlled by amp or headunit)- 60 to 80hz can be lower or higher depending on your preferences but this is an average range Bass Boost - 0 or off Subsonic - Since this is sealed it doesnt make a huge deal but you cant hear below 20hz so thats a good place to put it Gain - Cant tell you as it is different for all installs HU settings Do not use any boost settings Low pass can be controlled by this or the amp (same range as above if using headunit instead of amp) High pass filter - depends on speaker rating and how you like the placement of it Loudness - Off I dont know all the setting you have on the HU so I cant tell you much more than that.

What size (cu. ft.) and type of box (sealed or ported) are you putting the sub in?

Look at the picture in the catalog. It shows that it is bridged putting out 3000 watts and it says 2 ohm minimum under it. Then under that it shows it not bridged and 1500 watts going from each side at 1 ohm. It is two 1 ohm stable amps strapped together. So you were being told correctly. This could have stayed in the same post you already have started instead of making a new one.

I honestly found out the sub I wanted that fit the preferences I wanted then figured out the box I wanted it to go in and then last I found the amp I wanted. I agree that a good reliable amp is important but it is not the first thing you should plan. The sub/speakers are what play the sound you are looking for and they are all geared for different preferences. The amp is just feeding the power to the sub/speakers and not actually making the sound. The first thing you plan should not be the amp in my opinion but I may be corrected here very quickly.

Thats the backwards way of thinking. You should buy the best driver that fits your needs then match it with an amplifier.

Well we were trying to figure out if you had the Dual 2 or Dual 4 ohm version in your other thread. I believe we found out you have the Dual 2 ohm version and with that being the case we were telling you that you either had to: 1. Buy two smaller amps that are 1 ohm stable and power your subs that way 2. Buy a 2 ohm stable amp such as a kicker amp 3. Buy a 1 ohm stable amp that has the power at 2 ohm that you want it to put out The reason it is like this is because with 2 Dual 2 ohm subs you are not able to wire it down to 1 ohm. You can do .5 ohm ( highly unsuggested ) or 2 ohm ( this gives you the three options above). If you have 2 Dual 4 ohm subs then you could wire them down to 1 ohm like you are wanting to do.

You are going to have to either get 2 amps that put out power at 1 ohm or 1 amp that puts out power at 2 ohm (kicker) or 1 amp that is 1 ohm stable that can put out the power you want at 2 ohm (this will be expensive)

Many people can't fit a 15 sub back port back in a car trunk so that's why they are saying sub up port back as that is usually the next best.

Well if you plan on wiring 2 of these to 1ohm then get the dual 4ohm version and I would second the AQ2200 for a good budget amp. I would definitely recommend it over hifonics. There are many budget options just let us know if you are looking for a single amp wired to 1ohm for sure so we can be sure we are pointing you at correct amps.

Oh.. Ok. I thought he was wanting to run with a single amp. I guess I should read better.

Are L7s single voice coil or dual voice coil. What you say you are buying would be single and I thought they were only dual. If they are dual then you need to get dual 4ohm versions and not dual 2ohm since you plan on wiring it to 1ohm.

You can bend the port. Like make an L shaped port. Go down one side of the wall then down the back side of the box.