ralstonballa2413

Very popular brand here in Nebraska (Very overpriced if you buy it from a retailer here) I have never personally owned anything from Treo but have heard plenty. Set it up right and it can be loud. This has all the specs of the sub: http://www.treoonline.com/infosheets/ssx_subwoofers.pdf If that doesn't work just got to Treo online and follow the pages until you get to the specs.

Voted.. 2 minutes? I think it may have taken 10 seconds.

yea after gas i only made 70 and im making him a box for free Hmmm different names and yet a reply that would only come from one of 'twin brothers' and yet two different screen names. Yep I would say its safe to se we have multiple accounts. Sean, Ryan, Aaron, Mark............banhammer please??? J like i said b4 if they want to ban me they can but wait to i finish my deals with people like i told the mods they can delete the other name i only made this 1 because i 4got pw and email i used for that name and my other computer was broke so i made this name on my desktop and it stays loged in and my laptop stays loged in with the other name That doesn't make a whole lot of sense seeing as they were both created on the same day. How would you make an account and forget everything about it and have your computer break and then make another account on the same day?

Go to their site and buy it.. It's only 539.99 there with free shipping also

Were you planning on having these sealed or ported? I really hope sealed because I doubt that you will fit the proper ported box in that trunk. I think mine isn't much smaller than yours and it was difficult to fit the correct sized box for 1 15" ported unless it was built in the car. Try to find about 1200-1500 watts used/refurbished that is a good quality amp. No need for 2000 watts as you won't hardly hear a difference. You may still need to bump your budget up about $100. I would have suggested only buying 1 15 and trying out ported and sealed with a good quality about 1500 watt amp and if you needed more down the road then throw another 15 in there since you already have an amp that can work. I think you will be surprised how much bass you can get out of a good 15 in the right box. Are you chasing numbers with this setup or just trying to have some bass and to show off a little?

Why are you trying to push an 18" in a trunk that as you say is "not big enough for the required space to perform". Bump it down to a 15" and you will still be happy. You then can fit the amps and extra batteries in the trunk that you will need. You might even have room to haul things in the back by doing this.

Even the best sub in the world can suck balls if its not right for what you are looking for. Just because it is the best SPL sub doesn't mean a SQ guy will want to go out and buy it because its a great sub. Look at it as if someone said is the new Fi N3 a good sub.. Sure it is a great sub if you are competing but if you want a daily driver sub even the guys at Fi will tell you its not a good sub. Quit getting so mad at everyone for giving an answer that is just like your question.

The amount that will be drained is so small that it would take many days of sitting to cause any type of problem for you.

Actually yes that is wrong. It has been talked about numerous times here. Please read up on products before you bash on someones suggestion or suggest them yourself. Cool edit. I wasn't bashing his suggestion i was merely going by what the AP catalog said and and the catalog just so happened to be wrong. Keep your dumb ass comment to yourself.. You also made a comment about the power handling of the sub being higher than what was stated numerous times. I just think you should at least learn about the equipment that is being discussed before you throw your opinions into the mix so you will be able to provide a better insight as many new people on here know very little about the equipment. Any miss information could cause a lot of problems for the people starting the posts.

I bought my 100.4 and my 1500 from db-r. I had an issue with my 100.4 but it was fault of mine as my speaker wire was pinched and shorted. It was still in warranty so I sent it in and for the $20-$30 to ship it they repaired it and found an issue with a channel I was not using at the time and fixed it all. I would suggest anyone who wants to get a good solid sundown amp with a warranty on it to look into db-r.

I would second the choice of the Stetsom 2k6 and one of the 2 ohm models are for sale right now in the for sale section here and its only $390. Sounds like a good deal to me.

Actually yes that is wrong. It has been talked about numerous times here. Please read up on products before you bash on someones suggestion or suggest them yourself.

Don't listen to this guy. The hifonics puts out that 2kw at 1 ohm,same as the audioque. You need a amp that delivers 1500w at 2 ohms. The kicker is a great amp except for the subsonic. The audiopipe 3000 is too much you'll smoke the subs. Actually the Audiopipe 3k is rated at 2k at 2 ohms which would be fine because he has 2 d2 subs that are rated at 1000w a piece. @ OP: If your looking to spend 550$, the Saz-2500d is on pre-order pricing for 525$ in the SSA store. Better than paying 550$ for only 1500w. It does 1200w at 2 ohms so you may not have to worry about electrical upgrades beyond the big 3. By getting either the ap 3k or the saz-2500 you have the option of going to 1 ohm down the road if you want to upgrade subs. Just a thought. The audiopipe is 3000 rms at 2 ohm (2 1500's strapped inside which gives 3000) and is not 1 ohm stable since that would make the 1500's .5 ohm stable so that last statement is false

Its a digital multimeter. Cost like $15-$20 at any home improvement place like home depot, lowes, or sears. The amp kit could be good depending on if the wires are long enough to reach where ever you need them to. The other alternative is look into weldingsupply or knukonceptz (non-CCA) as they have good, cheap wire.

I owned the Brutus 2010 Hifonics amp and would definitely tell anyone to avoid them and splurge another $100-$200 for something like Sundown or look into other cheap brands like audioque or audiopipe. Atleast look into other mainstream brands that have a much better quality standpoint behind them like Rockford.

If it is possible to have him play the subs for you then that is what I would have him do. If this is not an option then take a dmm and hook it up to the coils to make sure they read around 2 ohms. Then I would push the cone in and listen for any coil rub. If they smell like any type of a burning smell just let him keep them. These will let you know for the most part how much damage has been done to them. As for the amp. I know a lot of people here say for a cheap option to look at audiopipe which do have adjustable subsonic filters (This is a must for any ported sub application which is what I'm assuming you will do with the L7s). Last I saw Kicker still had no adjustable subsonic filter which makes you build the box around the amp which is what you do not want to do. If you buy both L7s then look for an amp that will put out 1500 rms at a 2 ohm load that has an adjustable subsonic filter (As long as it does this then it does not matter which amp you get). If you go for a single L7 then look for an amp that puts out 750 rms at 1 ohm and a subsonic filter. Electrical may or may not be able to handle the 1500 watts you want, but it could. No one can answer how your car will react to the extra strain on the electrical. For your speaker amp you should look into Class AB amps as they sound better than Class D amps. I believe the last I saw most of the pioneer 2 and even 4 channel amps were Class D. Good luck on your search for equipment. I hope the L7s turn out to be a good buy for you.

Its passive if you use the crossovers. It active if you don't use them. So to answer the question... No your future install would still be passive as you are still using the crossovers. That is the correct way to wire it if you get an amp and want to run passive. Active is the same thing just without the crossover.

It is extremely hard on your alternator to charge a battery that way. Put it on a charger to get it to a full charge before installing it next time.

I have seen this happen in a boat before. You have a short somewhere in the wire to the speaker that will not play or the speaker is bad.

Someone just started a topic called universal option in the general fi section not too long ago. It was explained in there that the D2 gap is the same size as the universal gap and the D1 is slightly smaller. Do a quick search and you will find this information.

Have you tried to wire the sub to 4 ohm and see if the amp has the same problem?

Just wire your current amp to a 2 ohm load and if you don't like the output then worry about getting another amp. No need to get a new amp if your current amp will be enough. If you have this in a sealed box then a kicker amp would be fine but I still think they only have fixed subsonic filters so if your ported then you should look into an amp with an adjustable subsonic filter.

I had this happen to my Q and I used some stuff called goof. Its just like silicone. It works great and holds up nicely. I only put it on the inside because then you cant see that you made that stupid mistake.

You aren't going to find too many more reliable sources than you can get here. To help answer your original question. There is no optimal dimensions it is about optimal volume and tuning for what you are trying to install it in and and how you want it to sound. The recommendations that were posted here tell you exactly what you are after. You just need to crunch the numbers to get the volume desired to fit in your car. The tuning will be good around the 32hz area. We can not tell you port dimensions or port length without know the dimensions of the box you can fit. The number of drivers is also something that we can not help you with as that is a preference that only you can decide on. If this did not answer your questions then let me know what I missed and I will try to answer it for you. People enjoy helping out here but not spoon feeding so please give us as much information as possible on your next post.

It will be 1 ohm or 4 ohm. The coils read .7 for 1 ohm ( how you want to wire it) and 1.4 for 2 ohm ( what each coil is independently)