ralstonballa2413

Usually the only time I cross into Iowa is to go to the casino but I will be heading up to Okoboji this weekend for the winter games. I think the worlds loudest trailblazer needs to be finished by then so I can see it.

Agreed.. Now we need them to be closer to Nebraska, specifically Omaha so I can see some builds.

I have used reducers for a few installs and I would prefer them over trimming the wire. I think all reducers are in a similar shape of a D but make sure they are before you buy them. They work well and hold securely in place. I have yet to ever see a problem with a reducer and using a 1/0 to 4 reducer should have a double step down on it. I have done what Crazy talked about and put a battery in the back and then ran the wire from the battery to the amp so it works similar to the distribution block but has a better look and will help with the electrical in your setup. In my opinion a secondary battery is the best option followed by the reducers then use trimming as an option only if you don't want to spend the $10 on reducers.

Well by answering the question of what you are using for your active processing will help answer the question denim asked about what terms are you looking for in the amp. Because if you have processing to run active then the amp really does not need to be anything special but if you plan on using the amps crossover then there will be a lot of work put into getting the correct settings and by what 95Honda said I would say that this amp would not be very easy to set how you would like it to be set.

He made a box tuned to 31-32 hz and the ssf is a set frequency of 25 hz... seems to be an easy way to bottom out a sub. Make sure you are able to adjust your ssf or tune your enclosure no higher than 3 hz above your ssf setting. It is a tough lesson to learn but now I am pretty sure you will never do that again.

Do you plan on using the amps crossover to set them active or a headunit that can run active?

Vizio may make alot of TVs but they are in no way a major brand... They weaseled themselves into the market and I have yet to like one of their TVs They may have been a very poor quality brand for years but over the last two years they have definitely started to make a better name for themselves and have put out TVs that compete with the major brands. ^^^He beat me to it

I always suggest going into a store to compare them as what one person may like may not be what another person likes. When looking at TVs I have found that it is amazing the difference some people can see and others may never notice. I would just suggest sticking to major brands such as sony, samsung, vizio, and panasonic. There are a couple of Samsungs I saw with a quick look through Walmarts website that were 200 or less.

Haha.. you got me there. Math is sometimes above me. To the OP you are not looking at the correct information and it really is a 1 ohm load. There have been many topics started about this exact same issue. Search the forum and you will find the answer numerous times. You will be fine putting that load on a 1 ohm stable amp as that really is a 1 ohm load.

That is a 1ohm load.. it will be fine running at that if it is a 1ohm stable amp

I'm interested.. Can you PM me the email?

You have to start learning somewhere. Can't really tell until you hook it up and see or check the coils with a dmm. Depending on how much power and how long you were playing it would determine the amount of damage it may have experienced.

He is saying you didn't follow that picture. The box shows a group of terminals on a side. You hooked up the + and - in the box (from the diagram) to each other while in the diagram that is not how they are wired...

just take the positive from one side and hook it to the negative on the other. So then you are left with a positive on one side and a negative on the other that hook up to your amp.

I think you only have one coil hooked up.. just guessing but that is what it sounds like how you wired it up. try switching the and having a positive from one side attached to the other then have a positive on one side and a negative on the other hooked up to the appropriate spots on your amp. Edit: I see the picture now. Yes it is wrong. Each side is for one coil so you only have one hooked up right now

I own both the 880 and 980. The 880 is capable of running active while the 980 isn't. They both require the adapter for ipod play, have Auto TA/EQ. Now the differences are that the 880 is an active capable headunit, has the ability to change button color from white to blue, can be just like the 980 in audio capabilities if the use of 3 way is not selected and only using the 2 way feature. If you are looking for the best in SQ between the two with possibly upgrading to active then I would not look at the 980 anymore. The 980 is bluetooth capable but I still would not use it for that nor would I buy it strictly for that reason as you will be very disappointed. The graphics are color on the 980 and from what I have been told is that you can get images uploaded to be on here (don't quote me on this though). I will say that the looks of the headunit are very attractive but the 880 and 800 are also very nice looking. I will say they both have nearly identical SQ in regards to using a passive setup. The reason I switched from the 980 was because I was switching from passive to active so I put in for the 880 (should have bought the 880 instead of the 980 at the time but I was young and dumb).

What else will you be buying with this to run fully active? Your current HU has a better chance of running active than this Sony HU does. The other two are also not active units. So I will say neither are best for replacing your Alpine unit based on the goals that you are looking to get for this switch.

If only you lived closer so shipping wouldn't be so high

What M5 wanted you to look at was this. SDS Read it and if you have questions you can always send him an email (on the front page of the site) and he will be glad to answer any questions you may have.

If you are wired at 1 ohm now how do you plan on wiring it to a 2 ohm load?

Personally I'd keep what you have especially since you have had it for 6 years and seem to have had no problems and you enjoyed it. Just my take on the matter.. plus that is a great sub.

If that is what they want then this tool really won't help them either though as those people will have there amps clip to get an extra watt or two.

x2 I only have 35-38. 38 is currently up...

Why is everyone so angry about what his opinion is on the design or what he believes should have been done to make this a better design to him? If the person is happy with the enclosure then why should he care about other people's opinions on what he could have done differently? Not everyone is going to agree with everyone else so why take it so strongly what ///M5 says? You say he has no credentials so why would you care about the opinion of someone with no credentials? If I were to say the same comment I'm sure no one would have cared or made a big deal about it... Let him have his opinion and you can have your own. There will never be a way to make everyone agree so why not just be happy with what you have and enjoy it like it was intended to be in the first place?

Well to answer your question YES you do need fuses for protection. I'm sure you will be using 1/0 wire so you will need a 200-250 amp fuse. You need a fuse on any wire going to or from a positive battery terminal at a distance of 18" or less from the battery.