SuBXeRo

You can buy the prebuilt xovers if you want but its best to build them from scratch since those are generic crossovers, best to build for exactly what you are building. The tweeter, well dome tweets rovide wid dispersion. cone tweets are just cheap, horns, well, unless you are klipsch and have been doing horns for a while, i would suggest that for more of the experts since you can encounter horn honk and what not.

Every 2 years or so, a new socket type comes out for consumer use. Its nice to get ahead of the curve a bit by buying more expensive components, but at the same time, they are going to be outdated in the next 6 months. Its always great to have the newest technology but if you are on a budget, some of the stuff thats a little bit older will just fine! One thing that really kills performance is the harddrives that you use, a 7200rpm drive works fine but you can gain so much from putting disks in raid 0 or 1/0 for backup/striping processes. Even better would be the raptors in raid. I read in an article, WD is planning a 20k rpm drive to compete with SSD's until their newly acquired company silicon something is able to produce SSD's that can compete in the market. In my post above i said that intel is coming out with new chips with integrated graphics and mem controllers, plan to more chips like that in the future from intel and most likely Nvidia as well. Im hoping that within the next 8-10 years we will finally see an optical chip released for public use, i am talking about the IBM chip currently being designed, more or less a supercomputer on a chip.

i listen to a mix of rap rock and techno for the most part. I was just curious, IB is a new concept for me as far as subs go in cars, just toying with the idea.

have any of you Ibed it at all?

wow, maybe i read it somewhere else and answered a post here wow, disregard lol

disconnecting the leds may be an issue, it seems everything is integrated, i have a fan with red LEDs and i never noticed a way to shut them off. Cleaning your case, use canned air or an air compressor, just make sure if you use an aircompressor you try distances further out to make sure u dont ruin anything. Lastly, you can use a vacuum cleaner that is set to blow instead of suck.

SLI is beneficial only in games that really support the technology. I had gotten SLI when it first went mainstream or so in 2005 and it sucked, the software for it was terrible. I was able to see some increase in image quality as well as FPS if i didnt change settings to higher res. In encoding like you're doing, i dont know how beneficial it would be. Personally, i dont think i'll be doing it anytime soon again, kind of lost faith in it right now. It sux that the board i want only supports xfire since i want an nvidia card, but then again, im not gonna pay more for a sli board and probably not use it.

getting money in the beginning helps alot, its tough to build wealth like i said, once u got it, keeping it is smart, always keep reserves. I try to help and teach newbs as well when im in alenia and what not. I like alenia, its pretty and relaxed. I can be aloner at times, very much a jack of all trades. With people playing from all around the world, coordinating massive fights can be a tad difficult at times, some are very demanding, hence why i have steered clear of that, just alot of time has to be put in.

Unless the software you use supports up to 16 core for a quad chip quad core, it is pointles to have because the programs wouldn't use them. That is a limitation of most programs now a days, they arent written to gie and acept commands from an unspecified amount of cores. They will either use 2 or 3 or 4 cores, but more than that has to be specified unless u design new code that allows that to be open ended. The xeons are for servers as well as the opterons, but what you are doing is heavily cpu based so in a sense those chips would be good for that even though it would be for home use as well. ECC is for more stability as stated but is slower if i remember correctly. i read up on it a long time ago. ECC mem is also way more expensive than non-ecc memory. In the quantities you are talking, you are going to drop serious dough on the memory alone, several thousand at a 32 gig capacity. Intel is comming out with a new chip 4th quarter this year. Its a tri core or quad core, it has built in graphics and mem controller, so quad core i believe and 2 cores for multitasking. This chip will be for laptops and help bridge gaps between the vid card and performance as well as onboard mem controlling. This chip will come out first and next year, intel is planning to come out with a desktop version of this, higher power and capacity. Nvidia is also doing similar things with their ION platforms which uses an intel atom coupled with a nvidia grpahics chip, look that they will combine them soon. All chips will be going this way in the future because the speed gained is massive in comparison to offboard chips. It sux in a way, but its rather impressive as well. I wonder what it will do to competition in the long run. Tough times are ahead for ATI and AMD unless they can compete. Personally, i am planning to upgrade my rig. I have a core 2 duo 2.66ghz and an intel board with a 6600gt vid card and 2 gigs of ram with win xp pro 32 bit. I am planning to get an Asus P5Q deluxe mobo, oc the chip from 2.66 to 3.66 which is a cake walk, dumb 8 gig of crucal ballistix ram in with 4-4-4-4-12 lat. I am going to get win 7 pro 64 bit so that the ram is all seen and usable and i want to buy 2 new western digital black 500 gig hdd and raid them. The mobo has 2 sata raid ports that i can use that no software is installed, its called drive xpert and has the controller onboard already. The hdd's are nice, they have 32 meg cache, woot. I am planning to get an nvidia card, i want the dual gpu cards, waiting for prices to crash somewhat before buying, they are still high since they are brand new. The CUDA you all were talking about coupled with PHYSX are nice things to have. I dont see why future games wouldnt take advantage of them so it makes sense to get the technology. I was torn between ATI and Nvidia and those 2 technologies couples with their overall ability to perform better than ATI at this point was my second reason to go for it. I dont have anything agaisnt ATI, i just wish they made better cards.

i have been playing it since 2005 and the last year i have been on haiatus from it just finishing school. I have 2 accounts, i have a thanatos on my one char thats a minmatar/gallente char and my other char is a caldari/gallente/amarr mix. My main char names are Dark Blossom and Light Blossom. I was in the Razor Alliance and what not, i am more of a miner/tradesman in the long run. I did invention for a while. Working on the fighting skills, it just takes alot of playing to really make money if you arent good at playing the market. With the amount of playing i did, it was tough to accrue a large some of money, took me a while to save up for a carrier. I enjoy it, i just need to upgrade my video card so i can use the premium content. I do plan to upgrade my comp soon, its not slow, just wanna be able to do some overclocking, raided harddrives. I have a 2.66ghz core 2 duo, by no means is it slow, just wanna beast out.

that box is rediculous, im quite impressed

1. I am just shy of the 25 post count. 2. Short of a month, had a i known about the forums i would have been here very long ago. 3. If you want me to install said door pack, no problem. 4. Im sure i can get them installed in that time frame, i mean hell, it sitting on my floor staring out me does me no good. 5. Pictures, NP, i have a 6mp digi, i can take ALL of the pics you could possibly want. I can post a build log on Oznium.com as well as the NICO altima forums. 6. I have 1 car only, it sure as hell isnt going in someone elses. 7. I live in AZ in Tempe near SecondSkin HQ, pickups allowed? 8. I will contact you as soon as my blackberry gets the mail! 9. What is this coupon code for? 1. SuBXeRo 2. I don't qualify based on the post/term count and i sure as hell didn't make the sn looking for free shit. 3. I have a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5s with stock everything. I have 2 12" Alpine Type R's and a Rockford Fosgate 1001BD Class D monoblock not hooked up yet/havent decided how i want to mount things/if i want to keep them or just get a sound splinter sub or 2 and new sundown amp/ i need the money first since i grad college in 2 months 4. I wouldn't be here writing all of this up if I didn't feel the product was worthy of my car. Im not here and into customizing cars because its not fun to do and brag about and talk to other people about it with. If you got some decals, i will put them onmy car, I will make some really nice detailed build logs as well, i have NEVER installed sound deadener and go about things very methodically. The build log would be good because it is my first time and it would show that it is possibly for almost anyone to do. 5. I tripped at a football pep rally as i was running out in elementry school, hands down extremely embarassing. Just a tip, don't were brand new converse allstars and plan to run well on a freshly waxed gym floor. All in all, i felt it worth it to throw my .02 cents in and see if you would take the app. I have looked at damp pro in the past and its too pricey for me so i have been debating on the the damp or damp lite so show me what im working with!

I have been eyeing secondskin for about 3-4 years now i think and just never got around to using it. I got a 2008 altima 4 door with the 2.5 and well, weight is an issue for me overall. The car is amazing at hauling heavy loads up hill but im just worried about responsiveness. I plan to put in some Rainbow SLC 6.5 NG's and i want to kinda beef up the door a bit. I was looking at the Damp lite and was figuring that with its cost and realtive weight to square foot that this would be the product for me. Im not doing any SPL comps, just looking to increase the sound quality of my audio system while reducing door vibration. I am also trying to be cost concious with whatever i do. Any suggestions on the amount that i would need? It is a 4 door and i will add comps to the rear door since it already has a midbass cutout, so 4 doors and then probably a layer to the rear deck as well as the trunk lid.

I made up a nice little excel spreadsheet that figures some numbers for me on price/sq foot, weight/square foot for the different amounts and the SPL tiles by far are the most expensive and will not be an option. I also looked at the total weights and even if i did the spl tiles, the weight addition isnt as drastic as i thought it would be which makes me quite optimistic about things. Due to the high price, the Damp pro is out the door as well. I am using the 8-12sqft per dor as my guideline and uing 12 feet to figure all of my calculations. I dont want to miss any spots . Also keep in mind i am looking at this application as just one layer for right now. After comparins prices between damp and damp lite, there is a bit of a toss up in the end of which one i will get. the damp wont hurt but the lack there of with damp lite could make me mad if it doesnt work as well as i wanted it to. I will have to think on it and do some more research, i dont want to have to spend more than i need to, and im usually the one to go gung ho and spare no expense.

it is speaker generated. The car is just fine with road noise, i mean, some stuff rattles in my car, but then agaim, things are still new and not worn in yet, i try to tackle the lose screws and panels that grind interior wise, but as for like road noise and what not, its all good.

I have only had stock car audio so far in my cars and they always state their wattage here and there but, i am curious, what is 100 watts a channel really like. Im going to be buying speakers with a 90db sens and rated about 150 watts max around 70 or so rms, and well, what is it really like compared to a good stock system. Home audio wise, 100 watts is enough to really push high quality towers with beautiful sound, but then again, they are in enclosures which really compliment them. Car audio, a bit different. Now ontop of that, what is 50 watts rms like. My gf has a caliber and just has coaxials right now, she can appreciate better sound but itsd not really her thing and i told her down the road i would swap things for her. I figure a decent set of comps, 50 watts rms, pretty good right? Keep in mind, i am talking sundown amps. The new 50x4 amp that will be released since the current one is being phased out would be a good amp most likely for her since the price will most likely be more friendly! Input peeps!!!

its mainly bass resonance in the door, its also the body panels flexing a bit. The car is a great car but i dont think the body panels and such are as thick as they were in my old car which was a 96 i30. I have yet to really open the door but i am planning to see what i think i am hearing.

now that is an answer that i can actually use. Thank you . With this, i can now decide how i want to do the system part wise since i am doing it as i go along. Like i said before i apologize for seeming rude, i tend to be a very specific person when teaching and i like to be taught that way. You can't always assume that those who are learning know anything, so i tend to explain alot.

well than what would you suggest. I mean, im happy to be getting feedback, but so far, the only constructive suggestion i have gotten is to go with cheaper wire. I have given you guys fairly good if not great input on what i am trying to achieve and i have received very little input back on helping me figure out a solution. By now i was expecting to have gotten an explanation on sound staging, what typically is a good after market system as well as alternatives tpeople have seen for those in different situations. I hate to sound like an ass, but it seems to me that i am on a hifi car audio forum and you all should know more than I since im new to hifi car audio.

I like the way that my car sounds now. I just want to improve the sound quality, bass, and have a good full, clean, crisp sound. Im trying to avoid doing subs right now. I just have the rear doors, no speakers in them and i figured id try to use them. I have been in cars with comps in the rear doors and i think it helps the sound, but then again, thats just me.

Ok so nix the rear comps and just do midbass in the door? I mean, either way, i want to have 6 speakers going in the end. What about the rear deck? oOo i have heard of knukoncepts before, i havent been to their page in ages, i think i will take you up on your suggestion and go with them wiring wise.

I can easily be disuaded from the monster cable, i just like th quality of it alot, any other suggestions for good quality wire? Im going to be going into commercial real estate leasing so hauling people around might happen. Im sure i wouldnt be blasting the music, i just would like whoever is in my car to enjoy it. Its really just a pet peeve of mine to have the backseat sound like shit. I mean in the end, coaxials do the same thing as comps just not as good of a job. If i were to nix the comps in the rear, i would try to find a good sub/midbass to fit in the door that could really handle the lows better and then i would put comps in the rear deck. People will be in my car and i don't want someone ti say it sounds like shit, i want the overall experience to be good. I pondered the idea of doing subs in the rear deck or midbass, but the issues with that is, the people in the backseat are at the level where all they would hear is the bass, that kind sux, it may sound good to me as the driver but isnt pleasent for everyone else in the car. Im not going to SPL, just sound quality as an overall experience.

I am just trying to reduce the vibrations on the door. The tinny sound is what really gets me all the time. I hate it. I was just thinking of doing a single coat to help improve sound and get rid of the tinny noise, just want things to sound more solid. Now, like base in the trunk, if i did do subs again, i would have to go with damp pro, the trunk on this thing is really tinny sounding as is. I have never done a damping install so my judgement of how much material would be needed isn't good, i suppose that that would be a better place to start and then i can work from there.

Welp, the best way to explain the situation is by copying what i posted in the sundown forum like 2 mins ago. This should explain it all . For reference purposes, i have a 2008 altima 2.5s with stock non-bose audio. Its a 4 speaker system 6.5" comps in the front and 6x9's in the rear deck. There are cutouts and grills already in the rear door for the bose system but no apeakers in them since i didn't get that package. I was planning to buy a SAX 100.4D and then some rainbow SLC 265.25 NG comps for the front which would be woofer in door and tweeter in dash (stock locations) anfd then a second set in the rear doors with the stock woofer location and i would have to drill a location for the tweeters. I am not sure what i want to do with the rear deck as of now. What would you do? I am also planning to upgrade to a yellowtop and redo the the body grounds with some 2 gauge cable. I was also going to sound deaden the doors with second skin damp lite me thinks. I was also going to buy monster cable wire. I know its more expensive and its just wire, i happen to really like them, i like the shielding quality that they put on them. I am trying to stick with the 200 series where possible and then the 300 for the thicker gauge wires. My concern too is weight, with the additon of second skin it adds weight, it is a 2.5s and is a 4 cylinder so im not trying to bog it down. I won't be doing everything at one time, i will be doing it in pieces. The battery will probably be the last on my list with new grounds being a priority. I will probably second skin it before i get the comps or amp, but then again, it depends on where i am financially when i get the urge to do things. I am in AZ and its still bloddy hott during the day and i live in an APT so waiting until it's cooler out isnt a big issue.

For reference purposes, i have a 2008 altima 2.5s with stock non-bose audio. Its a 4 speaker system 6.5" comps in the front and 6x9's in the rear deck. There are cutouts and grills already in the rear door for the bose system but no apeakers in them since i didn't get that package. I was planning to buy a SAX 100.4D and then some rainbow SLC 265.25 NG comps for the front which would be woofer in door and tweeter in dash (stock locations) anfd then a second set in the rear doors with the stock woofer location and i would have to drill a location for the tweeters. I am not sure what i want to do with the rear deck as of now. What would you do? I am also planning to upgrade to a yellowtop and redo the the body grounds with some 2 gauge cable. I was also going to sound deaden the doors with second skin damp lite me thinks. I was also going to buy monster cable wire. I know its more expensive and its just wire, i happen to really like them, i like the shielding quality that they put on them. I am trying to stick with the 200 series where possible and then the 300 for the thicker gauge wires. My concern too is weight, with the additon of second skin it adds weight, it is a 2.5s and is a 4 cylinder so im not trying to bog it down. I won't be doing everything at one time, i will be doing it in pieces. The battery will probably be the last on my list with new grounds being a priority. I will probably second skin it before i get the comps or amp, but then again, it depends on where i am financially when i get the urge to do things. I am in AZ and its still bloddy hott during the day and i live in an APT so waiting until it's cooler out isnt a big issue.