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i would be using the stock locations. I dont know what the wattage is of my comps now, i mean, they have pretty good midbass and stuff but just start to distort at higher volumes. I really just want to be able to justify the large expense of it all when upgrading.

I used 4 gauage for 1000 watts and no issues. 4 gauge is rated up to like 1500 watts safely i think. I was in a similar position as you, debating how large my new grounds would be, i found that my grounds were 6 gauge and i never really had any issues with that believe it or not. I would have most likely bought 2 gauge had i redone it but like it was said before, the bigger wire you get the better. Electricity always takes the shortest path of least resistance and when you get a larger wire, the resistance at higher current will be less than if you were using as smaller gauge cable. Since money seems to be an issue, i would say you would be fine with a 2 gauge cable. If you really just wanted to go all out and never really worry about those grounds again, i'd go with the 1/0 cable. Either way, if you are running that 1000 watts plus stock stuff, the 2 should be enough. Get yourself an optima batt too, they help alot.

I read through all the posts thus far, if i repost an ideam i apologize, not trying to snatch your ideas, alot of them have just been thrown out so far . Second Skin Coronal Mass Ejection Protection Second Skin Chromosphere Second Skin Maximum Protection Second Skin Heatsink Second Skin Divine Heatsink Second Skin HeatWave Second Skin Scorcher Second Skin-A-Blaze Second Skin Sub-Zero Second Skin Chill-Out

well i looked in the manual and it didnt really explain any of it just said 4-8ohm load which isnt very descriptive. What is the reason for not installing the rear comps?

I understand the concept of bridging and individual channels and the impedences that the amp handle. What i dont understand is that load that would be created in a 6 channel tri mode on the 100.4. I am planning to get this amp and rainbow slc 265.25 ng's for my fronts and rear doors and they are 4-ohm comps. Np with that but i was peaking at the manual and noticed you could do a 6 channel tri mode and if i added mid bass or subwoofers, what wattage and impedence would be put onto the amp. This is a concern because i don't want to ruin any speakers that i add. I am really trying to create a good sounding system, i care more about bass created by speakers than having to add subs because i would have to do an IB or put a box in which i dont want to do if i can help it. I have had subs and my taste changes time to time and right now, a good, clear, responsive system is what i want. I am replacing my front comps and adding comps to the rear doors since i have a woofer mount i only need to drill for the tweet and then i have 2 6x9's in my rear deck. the 6x9's in the rear deck i was going to nix i think and just do the front and rear doors but from what i understand the rear deck works well for midbass. Thoughts?

I did some searching all over the net and here and really didn't see anything much on MB Quart stuff. I am checking out components to pair with a sundown amp in the future and MB Quart kinda caught my eye. I know they were good in the past when they werent owned by maxxonics and have heard mixed reviews since their merge. I am kinda wishy washy with what i actually wind up doing but i am looking for comps for the front to replace the ones i have no, 6.5's, my rear doors have midbass which i want to replace with a second set of comps and my rear deck is compose of 2 6x9's which i want to swap out for 2 midbass addons. Any input? Im looking around the 200ish mark for each component set, looking to buy online too from a site with a 1 year warranty through them, authorized dealer is always good too. The sundown amp i will get from around here

I had thought about that at one time but tbh, i would never do it. I don't ever keep my subs on all the time with my stereo, i dont have the money to get a larger alt and i don't feel like straining it or killing my battery all the time. I just don't like my subs to be on all the time. This is one reason why i really would like to concentrate on my components instead.

Hey all, new to the forum, poor atm, love audio, both home and car. I have 2 2005 model alpine type r's in a custom sealed and an rf 1001bd not hooked up. I bought a 4door 08 altima 2.5s last august, well rather leased now by my parents and i will purchase offlease since i grad college in december. I got the basic audio system and i am looking to beef things up in the future. I have heard excellent things about sound splinter and will probably get their midline 12" or 2 in the future with a sundown audio amp. None the less, now that my little spiel is done, i am wondering about passive radiators. Now i know these are quite common in higher end home theater and i have read some advantages and disadvantages of them over time. Now, i like the idea of passive radiators because they dont create port turbulence since there is no port and you are able to maintain more of a frequency range. Thats really all i know. Have any of you done passive radiators with your subs?