smashedz28

answered my own question, here at SSA! . appears the prices have went down might score another 1500D...

Where is this sale sundown is having?

Alright.. just placed my order for a 18" BTL fully loaded yesterday, i already have a Sundown SAZ1500D.. im worried its not going to be enough power.. maybe im wrong? lol.. what else is out there that isnt outrageous in price but does its job? im lookin for over a 2000 rms amp. and needs 1 ohm stability. Like i said.. maybe my sundown will work fine.. but with all the damn money im dumpin into this build as far as battery's, wires, alternator and all that good stuff, i want to really get this BTL movin.

because i bought the dual 2 ohm BTL.. that leaves me at 1 ohm or 4 ohm's. strapping them gives me the power ill want at 2 ohms... I think i understand what your getting at impious.. so if i wanted to step up and make a noticeable difference i would probably have to go with another speaker rather than giving it another 500 watts or so..? is that correct?

I didnt see that thread on the clamp test's with the sundowns .. man.. maybe this 1500 will be enough lol.. those amps keep getting better and better the more i read, its still in a box in my room, cant wait to get all the stuff and get this thing put together.. first build of my life i have taken my time on lol.. usually ill rush right out and start throwin shit together.. this one is gonna be special i hope never ran more than 1 battery, never upgraded my alternator, never even used 1/0 in an install yet. out of all my install's i think ive had 1 set of garbage 15's along time ago that were so beat on.. most of what ive used is 12's (kicker's mainly, a set of RE SR12's and some JL 10's) .. think this 18 is gonna be alot more than im expecting impious, i dont plan to compete or anything, probably wont ever get it measured with only 1 btl. I just hear about people throwin alot of power to those btl's. Just made me think i needed more, but there is no way to tell that for sure until i hear it first. thanks for all your info, i really appreciate it

Sounds good, i guess i could just stick with the amp i have and wait for my speaker to arrive and see what I have before i go buying something i may not need. thanks mac, always helpful bro

Would a 220 amp alternator, 1 kinetik hc2000 and 1 kinetikhc1800, all 0 gauge wire be considered a solid electrical bank? also, if i strap them together i lose the 1 ohm stability, correct? that would put me at 2ohm stable. I ordered the dual 2ohm BTL and for a while its going to be the only sub.

Ok, im pretty sure I have this right but I would like some confirmation to be sure. This is basically what my electrical will be.. the few things that can vary will be battery location, in the picture im going to add at the bottom I put the 2nd battery at the bottom(back).. easy to understand. the vehicle will be a Tahoe which has a 2nd battery tray.. should i use that 2nd tray or just keep it in the back close to the amps? That is one thing i wasnt 100% on, also Ill have a Kinetik HC2000 and a Kinetik HC1800 ... do i want the bigger of the 2 in the back? Also will someone look at my fusing in my picture to make sure that is correct also before i go buy all these damn fuses lol. Sorry about the pic, just needed something visual. Is there anything i should add or remove in this setup? I have everything in that picture except the 2nd battery and the fuses, so its getting closer to time to install. Thanks for any help.

awesome, thank you guys, i think i have this sorted out. My 'diagram' is correct minus the fuses between battery's which i need to replace with 250's.. also no fuse to MB Quart amp. and fuse 8" away from the sundown..thank you very much

Awesome, honestly I like the battery in the back idea, I planned on using ring connectors for the back battery so i could use a 4gauge wire for the MB Quart amp and use a 1/0 for the sundown amp. Doing it that was I could use both sizes of wire's for the amp's without using a distribution block. Make the battery terminal my distribution block i suppose. Is that wrong? How about that negative wire mentioned? Do i need to run negative on battery 1 to negative on battery 2? Thought i read somewhere it wasnt a must, you just had to make sure there both grounded very good (frame of vehicle). IF i was to put the 2nd battery up front would running another 1/0 from alternator to battery 2 be useful? Or pointless? Appreciate the help so far guys. Really helpin me here.

i read that kinetik post after i bought the HC2000.. kinda screwed i guess, ill just make the best of it for now. This is my first big install, i dont plan on going overboard as far as voltage. should stay in the 14.x range hopefully.

In the pic it appears the 1800 is starting battery yes.. but nothing is installed, that is something i would like to learn from this thread, also the lack of a negative run is basically because i didnt think it was necessary. I know it wouldnt hurt but I heard it wasnt a must have. If it is i dont mind buyin the cable.. by the time this is done ill have damn near $300+ in fuses and wires.. damn this is a expensive habbit.. As far as fuses, the 1/0 is Knu KLMX, i believe it has the ability to run up to 250 Amps, ill have to double check. Do the rest of you agree with the fuse situation? fuse the 2 battery's together with (2) 250amp fuses instead of 150Amp? Also 150Amp fuses for the 2 amps should be alright.. correct?

after looking at the pic if i put the 2nd battery in the front im gonna either have a bunch of runs comming from the front or Ill need a distribution block... Think i like the back location better Point me in the right direction please

Alright, ill throw my 2 cents in here. As far as your enclosure i dont know shit. As far as going from a pair of kickers to a Fi Sub.. just went thru this monday of this week... Vehicle had 2 12" Kicker CVR's in about 3.7 cubes i think it was tuned to about 38ish.. paired them with an audiopipe 1500 which i know is more than the recommended power.. @ 1 ohm it sounded damn good i have to say, it was that deep smooth bass, would drop the mirror real fast.. we took those out and built a box for a 12" Fi Q. 2.5ish cu ft, tuned to 32hz... personally i like the Fi better. it pushes more air and i feel it alot more, but the kickers sounded better up loud.. the Fi sounds like it wants more than the 1500 watts (which is off a stock electrical so who knows what its actually getting). but as far as my friends untrained ear he likes the kickers better. He notices the difference.. the Fi gives off that deep bass that travel's far.. really is no point to this post except to share my experience. take it for what its worth, i understand there is alot to consider in my friends situation and were workin with it more each week till we get where we want to be. But in my opinion, the kicker CVR's in a properly built box doesnt sound half bad, i would never buy another kicker sub again in my life.. but there not half bad to be honest. 1 Fi Q sounds better than the 2 kickers imo.

Right on. Got the box built. Sounds amazing on 1500 watts next problem will be finding another Q of the old version to match it. After hearing this... Which is the first fi sub I've ever heard. There is no doubt I'm going to be blown away by the 18" BTL. Thanks again guys

I posted this earlier.. sure someone moved it, but i cant find it anywhere.. so let me go ahead and post this again. this time ill have it notify me in email incase you guys hide it from me again Im going to be building a box for a 12" Fi Q this weekend, on Fi's website the t/s specs are not being shown. that section is down waiting on the 2010 Q's i suppose. Does anyone have these handy? I know im goin for about 2.5cuft and about 32hz tuned. Just would like to see all the rest of the info. cutout diameter would be nice also. thanks for anyone who can help me here.

Right on. Feelin better about this guy buidin my box already

Im in the process of having a box built for my tahoe for a 18" BTL. my boxes dont always come out the way i want so i decided to have this one made by someone who knows what they are doin.. well me being the kind of person i am.. ill bring the info i have from him to you guys and hope to get some support or get me in the right direction. Guy is fully aware of the BTL's and has made several boxes for them in the past. He says he would like to make it 8.5 cubes tuned to 30-35hz and says he will give it a little bit more port area than Fi recommends... does this sound ok to you guys? anyone have something similar or done anything similar. I know here in the fi forums its says 5-8 cuft, tuned to close to 32hz and 12-16 square inches of area for port per cubic foot. with that information he says to give it a little more.. please guide me

basically all the stuff in my signature \/ down there in the being built part.. sundown SAZ 1500, the 220 alt, kinetik hc2000 (maybe 2 since i dont want to run my stock battery with the kinetik i just bought).

I dont know jacob, im guessing he is the sundown guy here? sure it would have been the way to go though lol, once i get this installed, ill probably be looking for him to purchase the next one when the time comes ill be asking you guys how to get ahold of the guy.

awesome your the man mac n cheese

wow.. posted this yesterday and still nothing.. you guys alright? Need the displacement of the woofer when mounted and cutout diameter of a 12" Fi Q woofer.. anyone?

alright, i must be real tired. could have swore i posted this an hour or as ago before i went out to eat lol. guess not doesnt show me ever posting it, go figure. So if anyone can help me here i would greatly appreciate it.

ok.. right on. didnt know that. appreciate the help

• Mixing Different Battery Technologies Kinetik Power Cells are compatible with most standard 12 volt charging systems and battery technologies. We do however advise using Kinetik Power Cells exclusively throughout the vehicle for maximum voltage, performance and longevity of aftermarket electronics as well as the Power cells. This will minimize self discharging of the power storage devices in the vehicle while not in use also. Kinetik Power Cells have a very low self discharge rate much lower than that of a standard ‘wet cell’ car battery. When different types of power storage devices (batteries or Power Cells) are used in parallel in an electrical system, current will have a tendency to flow between storage devices unnecessarily resulting in heat build up and loss of power where it is needed most. When Kinetik Power Cells are used throughout the install, current will flow directly from the Power Cells to the load in a balanced manner minimizing ‘fighting’ between unlike storage devices. Kinetik High Current Power Cells Thank you. I remember reading that, just wanted someone's personal ' war story' about the issue. guess ill scrap the cheap battery and run only the kinetik and see how it works out. dont want to damage anything.. im trying to do this right, so keeping with the spirit ill stay with one type of battery. sure it would work if i didnt.. but doing this install half ass isnt what im going for. if not ill just buckle down and buy another kinetik (even though ive been hearing bad about them lately).. thanks again