smashedz28

i used t nuts and bolts, mine is fine. beat on it everyday

my experience wasnt that bad, works as they advertise.. just sucks at idle. they wont get anymore of my money thats for sure.

If your anything like me then the answer is yes.. 1 18" BTL blew me away a few months ago.. my friends are already tellin me they dont want to ride with me anymore.. but it doesnt even seem loud to me anymore. Like aimone said.. daily driver then probably yes, once and a while thing you'll be fine.

to add, i didnt have to ever return my alt or anything, but i emailed them several times before buying and they were fast with the responses and helpful. Hope they take care of ya.

I have one of their alternators on my tahoe.. i will never buy from them again. Voltage is all over the damn place. You have to be at a steady 1400RPM i think it is?? or your voltage is garbage.. atleast mine is. one of the only corners i cut in my install was buying one of these alternators...now when people say.. "you get what you pay for" i truly understand lol. Should have just got the DC power alt i had my eye on.. even though its double the price i would be very happy with it. You say yours is making a grinding noise? mine never has done that, works like its supposed to, but its one of those alt's that doesnt make its power at idle.

take a look at this little kinetik battery .. My linkhttp://www.amazon.com/Kinetik-HC600-Watt-Power-Battery/dp/B000LUBQ4I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1278561587&sr=8-2 .. "more power than a 100 farad capacitor" .. battery is for sure the way to go, these people telling you to get a cap need to get over here on SSA and learn what the hell there doing

sounds like you shouldnt loan your car out anymore lol. Sounds like the problem is the amp, check all connections..im sure there is more that you can do, people will guide you here in this thread im sure.

i used those square head screws on mine, not the hardest bit to find, but i doubt most people breaking into cars run around with that type. i like to think that with the gigantic box i have for my 18 BTL it wont just get taken right out, it took 2 people to even put it in the vehicle.. then we added the 70Lb sub to it lol. but who knows, im sure people have had alot more stolen. good luck.

not sure what your after, and I cant comment on the sound they produce, but there is a set of crescendo audio 6.5 components right at $99 crescendo 6.5 they give you absolutely no details on them, this probably doesnt help at all lol.

or audiopipe 1500 (AP15001D) i think it is

Im one of those guys who can look over some t/s specs and not know what the hell im lookin at lol.. Basically AA is new to me, i went straight for the Fi BTL, but ive been seeing these for sale locally lately (craigslist) and im curious.. For the most part i need to know what each sub is good for.. as in SPL, SQ.. Ive been eyeballin these 2 havoc 12's but dont really want to buy them knowing nothing about them.. AA is a good name, that im sure of. just need more details, if someone could point me in the right direction i would really appreciate it. At the very least someone who knows the havoc series please fill me in.

got my vote

i was surprised to see a missed you note on the door lol

thats how my btl was done also. Only thing that bothered me was that it required a signature to receive the package.. i got lucky and only missed mine one time, got it the 2nd visit. signature is a good thing, but would be better if you were fully aware it was comming.. no big deal, love my BTL

damn, i was sooo close to pickin that sub up (if its the same one that was for sale here) glad i dodged that bullet. Sorry about the sub man.. sucks big time.

im tuned in here.

probably gonna do that today

I currently have 2 Kinetik HC2000's in my Tahoe, one under the hood, one under the back seat maybe 15" of power cable away from the amp. Have a db-starter-aternator 220A alternator (which for some reason i cant locate the one i bought from them.. maybe they stopped selling it? lol) It listed it makes its power at like 1200 RPM or something.. should have never bought it.. but thats what I have, I took the voltage meter outside today and looked at both battery's.. Car not started in over 24 hours the battery under the hood was sitting at 12.6 with the vehicle off.. back battery at 12.5. turned the vehicle on which had the rpms at like 1300 or so since it wasnt warmed up.. saw 13.8 or so in back and 14.3 i think it was under the hood.. turned the system on (sundown 1500 and 18" BTL) at around 1/2 volume.. rpms at idle (under 1000) 12.6 at highest all the way down to 12.2ish.. under hood was slightly higher but never hit 13 with system on. Had someone hold rpms at around 2200ish.. maybe + .1v-.2v in back.. I have done the big 3 in 1/0. wiring is as follows.. Alternator to front battery positive front battery positive to back battery positive both battery's grounded well back battery positive to sundown positive basically looks like i got a shitty alternator... is there any other tests i should do? Maybe wire it differently? kinda irritated with this. I mean even with the system off driving on a normal day unless im giving it gas the stock guage will drop to around a high 12.x right as i let off the gas, then when i accelerate it quickly jumps to the 14 mark.. what do You guys suggest i do? wanting to get a crescendo 3kw but with voltage issues i better deal with this first.

Hmm maybe that's something I need to take a look at duran. Could that be a big reason for this? Learn somethin new everyday thought solder would be perfect.

Both batterys read 12.5 to 12.6 with vehicle off over 24 hours. The volt meter is very old. But the volt meter shows basically the same thing my stock meter shows so it leads me to think it's correct. He'll I'm sure the alt is working as advertised ( making voltage at 1200 rpms) but it bothers me to see it move so damn much, 12 volts everytime I let off the gas is bs. I'll get my dad involved in this, he knows slot about testing batterys and voltages, maybe he can help hunt this down. Again .. Appreciate all the posts, keep em commin if u have something to add. I'm open to all ideas and plan to test everything mentioned when I get the time. Would adding a run of wire from alt to back battery do me any good? Right now it's just alt to front battery and front batt pos to back batt pos??

lol... i soldered the shit out of ALL my wires... not a single crimp on anything bigger than an 8ga wire... i could damn near hang from these connectors. They are the knukonceptz ones though.. but still shouldnt be the issue, voltage regulator.. no clue.. 1997 chev tahoe 5.7 v8, 4dr. ?? its this shitty alternator im sure of it, i know all my connections are very tight, grounds are good. Nick... or anyone else.. is there a way to tell if my connectors could be a weak point in my system? I highly doubt it, i trust my connections over this cheap ass alternator i bought any day of the week, but im open to anything you guys have to offer and appreciate the help.

Alright.. im kicking around the idea in my head to purchase a crescendo 3kwp to use with my 18" BTL (d2) .. when i had my box built for me he wanted to know what size amp i was going to use.. i told him the sundown 1500 (which is hooked up right now) ..he made the box on the larger side, i dont know exactly what the cu ft is.. thing i dont know is, should I do a new box up if i decide to throw a 3kw on it? Does my box size play a big role on the amount of power i feed my sub? Whipping up a new box will be a pain in the ass lol.. but if i go dump the money into a new amp then re building isnt gonna kill me. Im pretty sure I can answer this already.. i have a feeling the size matters alot, but maybe someone can lay it out for me in a way i can really grab ahold of the idea. Would i need to get ahold of Fi to see what they recommend? the sub is rated at 2000 rms and ill be giving it more depending on my install.. how would i calculate this into the box size? a BTL is known for taking more than the rated rms. this is probably one of those "if you have to ask you shouldnt be doing it" things lol.. oh well. Better to ask and be sure than to jump in and blow my $500 sub. anything you guys can add would be great.

actually less. with the system off and idle i believe it was 12.6ish, ill have to do that test again and actually write down the exact numbers, all im sure of is its not where i want it to be.

can you elaborate? the only battery charger i have is an old 1980 charger. supposed to be bad ass in its day lol.. but not sure how it works with the newer type battery's. Not sure i understand how that will burn them up. thanks for all the responses. id rather not rig my throttle body with bread ties lol. give ya an A for creativity there though. If its possible to adjust it i would rather do that, but if a new alternator is what i gotta do to get this voltage in line then thats what im gonna have to do. Durring this entire build there was only 2 things i skimped on.. alternator and a MB Quart high's amp.. havn trouble with both of those damn things. should have just kept with the spirit of the build and bought quality.. should of known Ill try to make it down to auto (vato LOL) zone tomorrow and ill post what information i get. If you got more to add please do.

If i take it to a auto zone i just ask them to load test it? what kind of results will they give me? Not sure how that works or what it is im looking for.. was hoping i could make this cheap alt work.. but i got what i paid for i guess lol. looks like a DC power alt may be in my future. just need to cough up the damn near $500 for it lol. sucks for me