smashedz28

for the front just get the biggest you can fit, for the back get the biggest you can afford. if the 2 battery's are ran together you should have plenty of juice to crank it over. I run kinetik battery's and i have 2 HC2000's. my tahoe's fuel pump went out a while back and i sear i cranked on that damn thing so many different times and turned on the system a few times without a start. over a period of a month!. never once worried my batts were gonna die. XS power is a good brand of battery and if anything will keep you powered its those. If i could afford XS i would have them also.

Is that the N2 or the Gen 2's with the UFO magnet? I love my BTL too, beast of a sub.

has anyone used the 1/0 raptor wire? Just looking for some info on it. how does it compare to other 1/0 wiring out there? Its cheap but that isnt always good. Any experiences?

It's messed up that a shop who's in business to make money sells a product for enough of a profit to actually stay in business and make money? You paid the guy $20 over internet prices (which are probably pretty close to if not less than his dealer cost on the product). His rent is probably a couple grand, plus utilities, employee payroll and benefit expenses, inventory carrying costs, taxes, etc etc etc. So you made a $20 dent in his $10,000+ monthly expenses, not including room for actual profit margin so he can actually feed his family.....and he's ripping you off? More than likely the guy isn't rolling to the bank in his brand new Mercedes laughing all the while that he just stuck it up your ass without atleast lubing first.....more than likely he's just thankful for every week he can actually stay in business and doesn't have to close his doors. The more sales dealers lose due to the internet market, the more of a profit they have to make on the product that does sell to simply maintain the business. For everyday little products like that I usually buy local, knowing full well it's costing me a little extra but I'm glad to give my business locally when I can. Your right, its a hummer

to each his own. my unemployed ass will shop for the best deal i can, dont give a damn how his business goes, he's a prick and he sells garbage. Infact all local shops HERE are worthless if you ask me. never had a good experience with any of them, if its not there expensive ass prices its them trying to convince me i should get a kenwood or pioneer sub to sound good. They dont seem to care about anyone else other than themselves. At the end of the day they couldnt give less of a shit about making there customers happy its them trying to sell there shit at any cost.

pretty much anywhere you can fit em will work. some people like to mount them so they are showing, others like to hide them. thats up to you.

i have had nothing but bad experiences with local shops myself. They always act like your stupid and the prices on things are OUTRAGEOUS!. other day i needed a power block badly, i went to a local store.. damn guy charged me $30 for a soundquest distribution block! i come home after i bought the damn thing and find it for $10 on darvex. i guess its how they make there money but damn it seems messed up

im not in the market really, i just put in an order with Knu, thats where all my wire comes from. But searching the new 1800 woofers.com website I see they sell raptor wire so i just had to question it a little, I have a friend getting ready to do a system also and he will need some 1/0. Plus i couldnt find any good reviews on it when searching.

lol, you sure dont. trust me next alt will be DC no questions asked.

yea, i kinda figured it wasnt that great just on the price alone, but for a budget kinda build with not a ton of power it may be something worth using??

sundown makes a nice amp, if you can afford it i would stay with them. Not sure if the ICON's are back in stock yet, might want to check into that

db-electric alt's arent that good, i have one on my tahoe and im not happy with it. the idle amperage is very low. Im only running a SAZ 1500d with 2 Kinetik HC2000's AND a 220 Amp alt from them. when i dont have it revved up my stock voltage gauge reads very low. i would never buy another one of there products again. They are cheap but as said above, you get when you pay for and out of my entire system the db-electric alt is the thing i regret most.

damn man, got everything, wish i could put in orders like you do lol. I ordered a ton of stuff on my last tax return like that, felt soo good. this year i gotta fight the urge. Lookin good so far.

Ascendant audio mayhem?

ok, yea just ordered up some 1/0 and about to do big 3 on my truck also, didnt want to have to buy another damn fuse, and If i did there was no way i was going to a local shop to pay $40 for one. No plans for an alt upgrade on this vehicle. thanks.

I have a question that fits here. Is the fuse between alt and battery pos. mandatory? I know its not a bad idea but on my application the existing smaller wire is not fused and alternator is stock. upgrading it to a 1/0ga wire does it have to be fused?

look at my signature, has a link to a good box designer, contact him, he is over at ca-f or he is here under the name "bromo' give him all the info you have and what you want, he should be able to help you. I believe he does them for free RIGHT NOW. but he does accept donations

welcome to the site man, good bunch of people here.

I need some electrical upgrades for my 98 s10. But I dont want to get carried away. So far all i have is some cheap soundquest 4ga wire ran from front battery to amp. Amp is just a little audiopipe 1500d, but as it is right now my bass knob is a dimmer for any light in my vehicle lol. there is no way im dishing out the money for a HO alt on this thing. I have room in the back for 1 battery. Curious as to how small of a battery I can get away with. Going kinetik because its what I like. Honestly i would like to add a little HC800 or something and call it a day, but I dont know. My first step will be to upgrade my wires along with the big 3. question there is do you guys think I can get away with just going with some 4ga knu fleks? Or should i do the 1/0 fleks? basically im looking for the cheapest route to take in getting my voltage under control. The amp i have only accepts 4 gauge wire so even though i have a distribution block which i could take the 1/0 back to a 4 for the amp, is it necessary? Im unsure of the amps on the stock alternator but im going to assume its low. just some guidance would be appreciated.

carquest..hmm i have a cousin that is manager at that store here. gets me employee pricing on all the parts ive ever needed. Im gonna have to go see him about a battery. As far as size for a battery im unsure. im going to remove the folding seat assembly and put it in there, not 100% on dimensions just yet, but unless i can get a group31 for cheap thats probably not size batt i would go.

ok. not a bad idea either. pretty sure ive decided on 1/0 everywhere. a reducer would work good. didnt even think about those for some reason. I guess Ill place an order for a bunch of 1/0 today and start with that, i dont see just upgraded wiring and the big 3 solving my problem but Ill do it and see where Im at then. If need be ill buy another battery then.

I believe the alt is fine. voltage stays up just fine when the system isnt on, never had any trouble with it or the stock duralast. thanks for the responses. Can deka be bought online anywhere? If so do you have a link?

im going to go with knu for my wire, it hasnt let me down yet. same with kinetik. I stick with what works well for me and those 2 brands have done well. If i do any 1/0 ill probably do it all in 1/0 (except for the small run in 4ga to the amp). As far as a battery.. I know kinetik rates there batteries on watts. as in if im running 2000 watts then i need the HC2000, so the HC800 would be way under for my application according to kinetik. how accurate is that, anyone know? Im sure there is a big math formula out there to calculate this properly but i could probably never figure it out lol. Under the hood battery is just a duralast something or another. I could possibly go for the kinetik hc1400 but i would rather not lol. any other suggestions? edit: i have heard alot of people using deka battery's, is this because of performance or price? If you guys want to help me with finding a cheaper alternative to kinetik i would be interested in checking that out, but would also like to be able to order online.

After some amp and HU adjustments i think this sub is going to work out just fine. For sure going to need to do something with my electrical, my gain knob is basically a dimmer for every light in my truck lol. trying to keep everything low until I can take care of the electrical. As far as the sub, its great. best 12" ive ever owned. Hits real low and the bass travel's nicely. No way could I compare it to the 18" BTL in my tahoe but its a great sub, i would be curious to hear what an 18" version of it could do on at least rated power. As far as this thread goes the sub was a success. Worth every penny spent on it and i would suggest it to anyone with similar goals to mine. Big improvement as far as spl is concerned over the 15" Q that i replaced.

has anyone here used this sub before? Reason im asking is there is one here locally on CL. Price is $250. Seems like a healthy sub. I recently installed a 15" Fi Q in my s10 and im not happy what so ever with it. lol. Clean sounding sub, but not what im looking for. Plus the box is bigger than i really want. I want some pressure in this truck. All i know is what I read on treo's website which makes me believe this will be a better choice than the Q im running now. Looking for anyone with hands on experience or atleast heard one before. This sub being a 12" will hopefully let me build a little smaller box than I have now. Probably power it with a audiopipe 1500 for now.