smashedz28

I was running an audiopipe 1500 to an sa12 @ 2 ohms (says 950w) and it sounded great. not sure you can beat those amp's for the price, ive handled 2 of them and had great results each time. For about $150 and change you cant go wrong.

hell yea! i liked my sa-12 also. very musical subwoofer IMO. made everything sound cleaner than a Treo sub i was using before it. Only problem I had is i want 2 of them now, 1 isnt enough.

would it be safe to say that the N3 could be alot closer to the older BTL (UFO style mag) than the N2?

ive got it up and running now.. kinda feels useless lol. just sits there doin its thing. not sure if i did it right (credit goes to aaron's team or not) but its running :\ ill leave it on all night and see what it says in the morning.

Ive had so-so results with having places like that make my cuts.. first time i went in they told me the same thing..they wont be perfect and i just told him to do his best. Guy cut me out an entire 3 1/2 cube enclosure just about and he did it damn good.. i tipped him about $10.. went back a month later for another box.. total garbage, i was pissed i had to pay for the wood after that shit. So ya.. its a roll of the dice. I saw this post a few days ago but didnt pay much attention that it was you doing it. All the work you do is badass, ill be checking back here to see any updates you share with us. keep up the good work bro.

ive heard about this before.. but still after reading this thread dont exactly understand it.. i get its something running on my machine. What I dont understand is what it's doing, and how it helps. Is there a payoff of any kind? (not that i would need one but im curious). Im going to download it on your recommendation alone but will be checking back tomorrow hoping to understand this more. Please.. dummy your explanation down as much as you can

im going to go through it tomorrow during the day light. Appreciate your help.

I was driving around pushing the system in my tahoe no harder than i usually do and it shut off. i get home and check fusing and all externals are good but 2 of the internal 40a fuses blew.. one has a huge black spot on it and left a bunch of nasty residue on the amp.. I plan to go out and just buy some more 40a fuses tomorrow but im wondering how in the hell it happened? connections in this vehicle are solid, or i would have blown ANL fuses. Does this happen when pushing a system pretty hard? Its just never happened and it has me concerned why it happened and COULD i have damaged my amp? Had this system up and running with absolutely no problems for about a year now. any info is appreciated. amp is a sundown SAZ1500D. all 1/0 for power/ground. Kinetik HC2000 under hood and another in the back maybe 2ft in length of cable away from amp, externally fused with a 150A anl i believe.. ill have to double check tomorrow.

hmm.. voltage "should" have been good but im monitoring that with the stock gauge. My HO alternator sucks ass and only gives me good voltage when im on the gas but i was actually on the gas when it happened, plus the 2 kinetiks.. ehh, guess ill know for sure tomorrow when i get more fuses. I still feel that my wiring should be good. If power and ground was bad somewhere wouldnt I have fried one of those external fuses? The internal ones are kind of like the end of the road as far as fuses go, correct? You would think if those blow then its something inside of the amp?

I apologize if this has been answered. I did a search and didnt exactly find the answer im looking for. What is the differences here? For my specific vehicle (1997 chev tahoe 5.7) there is the 270 XP and 270 SP, only difference i see is 10 amps at idle difference, with about a $50 difference in price. Can anyone clarify this for me please?

impressive.. I want one

dont think anyone can give you an answer to that.. i would run 1 BL 12" over 2 Skar's any day of the week. lol.. 2 skar's "MIGHT" sound better but i refuse to support it. basically your going to have to just do it to find out.

From crutchfield - LINK Details: FIBERLock woofer cone large roll foam surround CONsealer gasket hides mounting screws and provides an airtight seal frequency response 28-200 Hz power range 50-200 watts RMS peak power handling 400 watts sensitivity 87.6 dB SPL 8-ohm impedance top-mount depth 5-3/4" sealed box volume 0.9-1.75 cubic feet (1.25 cu. ft. recommended) ported box volume 1.5-2.75 cubic feet (2.0 cu. ft. recommended) Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 2, 3 1-year warranty edit: had a friend several years ago that had 2 of these in some honda or something.. sounded bad ass to be honest. I didnt know the RMS was so low on them. good luck with your new subwoofer

people sure do freak out.. i remember waiting for what seemed like forever for my BTL when i bought it but didnt post once about it.. with Fi your in good hands.. it will arrive. If you dont have patience then you should be buying some mainstream off the shelf stuff from a store somewhere.

I understand what your saying.. when the time comes XP is more than likely what ill order. Problem I have is im going to be buying a new vehicle soon so buying right now isnt gonna work for me lol. Probably going to miss the lower prices im sure, but when I get my tahoe sold and find something else I want ill be hitting you guys up. Thanks for the response.

This. Couldn't agree more. Don't touch that autotechcrapnix stuff +1 also. SDS all the way. wont use any other sound deadener as long as don is in business.

i was emailed which if i remember took me to UPS's tracking system and it was also on their site. its been a few months since ive ordered from them.

ive got tracking every time I have ordered through them, usually a day or 2 later though.

he's just running some dcon's lol.. think some of that info is overkill lmao.

i use an AP1500 and im happy with it. I also own a sundown saz1500d. both amps in different vehicles running 2 different setups. The sundown seems more solid for sure but I have no complaints with the AP. For the price im not sure you can beat it. Shizz is right it has angled terminals which I hate also, but its not a huge problem. Overall on a budget i wouldnt hesitate to pick up another AP amp.

what in the hell is that thing? lmao.. Cone Blown? Tree Sown! Cone is infused with seed that will grow when planted in the soil.

never owned an icon YET.. but i do own an sa-12. I was very happy with the sundown driver, it left me feeling like i needed another one, but i was able to throw over the rated rms to it no problem in a 1.75 cu ft box tuned to 30hz and it sounded clean, i wanted it so I could play real music and sound good not just slowed down, bass enhanced music. It did what i wanted it to do. Ive heard good about both subs but as mentioned there not exactly in the same category.

Lately ive been thinking of different installs to get myself into considering i recently landed a decent job. Basically not sure how to hook up multiple amplifiers beyond the 2/3 pre amp outs on the HU. I understand most amps these days are linkable and that I understand.. but what if i want to go farther than that? Where does the signal come from? For example.. say i want to add a shit load of speakers to my door's which would need multiple amps.. how do i go about getting the signal to each amp beyond the front/rear outputs on the H.U? Or say i want to add a shitload of subs to the back which will require more than a couple amps.. arent linkable amps limited to (2) together and no more? I understand RCA Y's can be used and ive done that in my other vehicle which only has 2 outputs to get all 4 front speakers to work off a 4ch amp. Ive just never really done an install that required more than 1 amp for subs and 1 amp for front stage. If anyone can lay this out for me I would appreciate it.

ok, think im starting to understand. thank you djjdnap for the diagram, i use an aftermarket hu but i get what's going on there. Think ive got this nailed down into memory. If the time comes where i have specific amp's in question and a more solid plan ill be back with better questions, thank you guys!