exxd

good shit, you really helped me out alot man..

ok today i was playing my woofer while driving for about 1 hr. after i got home and parked, i went to the rear and touched the dust cap of the woofer and it felt warm. i was wondering if this is normal and is there anything i should be worried about? my d2 18" bl is being ran on a kicker 1200.1 @ 1 ohm. head unit gains are set to 0 and amp gain is about 40% turned up and bass boost aswell. woofer is in a 9 cube ported box tuned to 32 hz.

thank you KU40, can you comment on my other update about setting the gains with a dmm? 34.64v would be for 1200 watts, but that i reached that with the gain turned up to 25%, now the sub doesnt slap hard anymore.sub slaps hard with bass boost all the way down and gain @ 50%. but based on the dmm way, 50% gain with my radio turned up 3/4 playing 50hz test tone is way more than the recommended 34.64v. what would happen if i turned the gain to 100% and bass boost to 100%? wouldnt that be the full output of the amp(1200w)? im not understanding how 25% gain on a 1200w x 1 @ 1 ohm amp is = to 1200w.

also here's another update: i was trying to set my gains using a dmm and come up with 34.64v = 1200w and i was using a 50hz test tone @ 0db with all my h/u levels set where i will be listening to it at and my volume up 3/4. i reached 34.64v with the gain turned up to about 25% and now my sub doesnt pound hard anymore. my old 15" t1 used to pound with 50% and 50% bass boost turned up, so when i upgraded to the 18" bl i left those levels the same thinking the bl should be able to handle anything that amp throws at it. am i wrong? if my amp is 1200w x 1 @ 1 ohm, shouldnt i be able to turn the gain + bass boost knobs both to 100% to reach the 1200w?

ok new update... ever since i turned my bass boost down to 0 and gain up slightly from 30% to 50%, now my fuse breaker keeps popping itself. well it wasnt doing that last night, but this morning when i went to start my tahoe it hessitated to start like it didnt have juice. after it started i jumped on the high way and was playing music all the way up to where i listen to it and about 10 minutes later the bass would cut out for a few notes. that let me know the breaker popped and was running solely off my amp battery. so i pulled over and reset the breaker, jumped back on the highway and few minutes later it did it again. so i dont know whats going on, i also noticed that my cluster battery gauge was fluctuating from 13-14 even on the highway.... so im not sure if thats happening from anything i did by adjusting my amp or if its just a coinky dink and my batteries just need replacing or alt is going bad. big 3 is done in 1/0, and the rest of my wires to the back battery and to the amp are all 4 awg. breaker is 160 amp and amp is 1200.1 wired down to 1 ohm. anyone got any ideas?

Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link. if you use a multimeter and use a 20 hz sweep while doing it. your ac voltage should peak at 20 hz which is right away. ive set my gain with a dmm using a 20 hz tone then set it using an oscope and the wave was clean the entire sweep, and i could actually turn the gain up a little. actually after thinking about it for a little bit that if you set with a dmm and you use the frequency that your subsonic filter is set to then it would be most accurate. thanks for clearing this up guys!

Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link.

turn the bass boost all the way down.. ok i went and checked the amp... x-over freq is set to its lowest setting 50 hz. bass boost some how turned itself all the way up to max 18db+ and gain was about 30%. i turned bass boost completely down to 0. and turned the gain up to 50%. do you think that is ok for now? until i can set it using an o-scope?

Wow.. really dont see how people buy them for that high! well i originally bought a 15" fosgate p3 that came with a ported box and after a while i didnt like its performance, i so ultimate electronics allowed me to trade that in and pay the difference for a t1. so i paid like 250~ 2 diff times. check out my current build pics in my 2003 tahoe BUILD PICS

My sub just arrived today. So I spent most of the afternoon installing this monster into the 9.3 cube @ 32hz box! I know I know, this box is ginormous itself... But oh does it sound good and pound hard! I had plans on listening to the woofer in the 9.3 cubes then maybe cutting box down to 7~ cubes.... But after listening to it for 20 minutes, I am very pleased with the product and with the huge azz box. Anyway I know this isnt much of a review, but more of some customer appreciation and satisfaction. If anyone has any questions regarding this woofer, feel free to ask!

dont listen to your friend. the woofer is dual voice coils, so you can wire a dual 2 ohm woofer down to 1 ohm. the hifonics amp should be sufficient. get a dual 2 ohm sub when you order it. to wire an amp you need a power wire, ground wire, and remote wire, rca cable from headunit to amp, and speaker wire. but before anyone gets into the details of what goes where and how.... are you planning on upgrading your big 3 and/or adding a 2nd deep cycle battery?

ok guys, sorry for leaving you guys in suspense .... had to get my crappy cell phone pics up on twitpic. enjoy Enjoy the pics! edit: btw on the amp pics, thats 4 awg wire... my 1/0 awg arrives today, so that will keep me busy doing my big 3 first! edit2: fyi, this 18" fi bl is replacing my 15" fosgate t1 in a 2.5 cubic ft box. all i did was swap the woofers + boxes out with same setup and levels set on the amp/head unit. and now my ears are starting to hurt a little lol and sometimes i cant think straight with headunit crank up!!! this is a good sign. i am very pleased with the amount of money i spent and just wish i had known about these woofers before i spent the $499.99 a few years ago on that damn 15" fosgate t1.

i have a kicker 1200.1 that will be wired down to 1 ohm ... woofer will be here tomorrow, and i was just thinking about mounting the woofer about 8 inches from the end, to see how the box soounds and if i dont like it i will chop off about 7inches of the same end to make the box about 7.5 cubes. ill have to retune the port just a bit cuz with the removal of about 7 inches will bring the tune to 35~ herts somewhere around there. i wanna keep it at 32~

Recently I built a box that is 47 x 22 x 22 with the port slot it all comes out to about 9.3 cubes, i was wondering if any of the gurus could tell me if that entirely too much volume for 1 18" bl daily driver?

what do you want it tuned to?

welcome to the site. here are the recommended specs for a ported box for that sub: BL 15 – Ported box we recommend using 2.8-4 cubic feet @ 28-37Hz. Again use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. This sub is recommended to be used at Rms: 1000W, so why would you be pushing 2k to it? Will this be used daily or spl? If you want to use this for a daily driver, I recommend pushing no more than 1300W to it. But then again, I'm not a guru either.

here is just an example of a box that will most definitely fit in the space you have and also is close to the recommended ported box specs of the woofer. you do not have to build the box like this, but its just an example. the exact measurements are in number 2. in the picture.

first you should see what your woofer's recommended box specs are, then you can measure your "trunk" space in your jeep to see how much space you are working with, then you can use RE Audio's Ported Box Calculator. You can play with the figures on the calculator to your likings as far as your trunk size and still keep the woofer specs in mind!