abmoore

Oh, yeah I re-read the thread, what is your budget by the way? This all gets more expensive than you may expect. electrical upgrades may be equivalent to your whole set up in some cases lol. What vehicle do you have and what does your electrical consist of now? What music is this for mostly rap, hip hop, or rock or tones?

I would listen to him. As for EQing, be patient, it takes a lot of time sitting in your garage or driveway, I always save a preset I like, then keep changing, compare the ones I like, then develop a feel for what is right and wrong. After a good bit of time you will get something you are very happy with!

Oh I thought he was just discussing the theory behind it. OP, is your goal deep bass? And can someone post an answer explaining the relationship between the t/s parameters and "deep" bass, like how they all correspond, or what the common similarities are in these subwoofers that are used for extended low frequencies. There has been about five questions a day concerning that it seems.

Doesn't a driver reach its full xmax at fs? Or is that just the resonant frequency, I would think they correspond. But for lower frequencies, more air needs to be moved to achieve a higher spl, so sd, bl, and other factors also influence spl. A high xmax, bl, low fs, generally high Q, and high power handling seem to be prevalent in low end beasts, what I mean by that is a lot of output below 40 Hz. Just what I have seen, someone on here has a better explaination. Just saw your post, 4 times the cone area will equal double the xmax? Or it may be proportional, hopefully someone chimes in, I think denim had a good explaination somewhere on here, I could be wrong.

Lol they barely make noise.... Anyways, the box size for Qs and BLs are similar, but it depends on the type of box, tuning, how flat you want your response to be, etc... The Q 18 easily needs 10 cubes at 28 Hz for a really nice response. If you have that room you can do two properly housed BLs, or BTLs for that matter. Are you stuck on buying Fi or are you considering other brands?

I second that, the point of upgrading your electrical extends beyond just getting more power out of your amplifier, it protects your car from the extra strain you are putting on the electrical system. Big three and 4 gauge should be fine for his, but 0 gauge, big three, and most likely a secondary or stronger starting battery is a necessity for your system if you are pulling that amount of current to produce 2500 watts.

My friend angled his about 10 degrees forward and 10 degrees up from a direct crossfire. His seem to be a bit lower than your listening position. I guess you won't know until you try. That parametric EQ will help a ton with mounting problems, nothing is as good as getting the mounting correct I guess, but It seems to help me. What frequencies seem to be harsh? I don't know what the natural rolloff of the mid and tweeter are but they could be overlapping too much, that is purely a guess though, I would wait for some more advice on the crossover points.

Just gave that advice to my friend when I saw that, he had his on-axis in the pillars too. We are in the midst of EQing but already sounds more pleasing to the ear.

It's not fair..... I want that box!!!! AC did a great job on that.

Yeah I was wanting to keep what I had, just needed to hear it lol. Those XS batts look so tempting though!!! Wish I had the budget...

I am planning on buying some XS Power batteries to replace my Deka Intimidators. I have a g34 as a starting battery and 2 g31s in the back as of now, so I guess the first question would be if I need to upgrade them at all. I will be running 2 crescendo 3kwds at .5 ohms each, a MB Quart DSC4125 bridged at 4 ohms, and a MB Quart DSC480 bridged at 8 ohms. I am rebuilding an alternator to give me more idling current, so I think it will end up being around 275 or 260 max. I am going to run an extra run of 2/0 gauge through the truck and my big three is done in 0 gauge. If I were need to upgrade and change my batteries what would be a safe amount to maintain my voltage? I want to spend as little as possible but I don't want to flake and not have enough reserve power. I have read some about how secondary batteries have a more optimized pressure, therefore provide more power when using a starting battery. Is the power of each battery also increased when linking multiple secondary batteries? If so does anyone have some sort of formula to calculate the gain from that? Thanks.

Why steer clear of AQ? They have many respected products for the price. Judging by your statement you were suggesting it is bad quality. I mean I have my unexplainable biases as well :: , but AQ should not be thrown out without a reason. Although, I agree with the Fi BL, great sub for the price and it gets loud with a properly built box (extremely important in your case, a 15 in the right ported box pounds!!!). I would at least try a lower model before stepping up to a BTL, it is a beast of a sub. There are plenty of other subs too, I wouldn't get stuck on one particular one like you seem to be with the BTL. Research into DC Sound Labs Level 4 and the XL, good subs for the money. There are also Ascendant Audio and SSA subs, and they really get loud without sacrificing SQ. I know you say you want loud, but it is good to have some experience before you go for the gold. With the right amp and enclosure these will get plenty LOUD, without sounding like poo. As for amps, the AQ 1200d, SAE-1200d v2, Elemental Designs NINe.1, Nakamichi 1200d (on sale at woofersetc), and many more, just check around the forum and see what people are using.

Yea the alpine mrp2000 is looking like a win with those d2s

I have a 2004 tahoe and I am going to change my sub stage. My electrical consists of a 300 amp alt., 4 deka intimidators group 31 in the back, and a intimidator group 34 up front, big three, and two runs of 0 gauge. I want to spend around two grand and my goals are a nice, somewhat "musical" sounding daily driver with a lot of output. I am hoping to hit 150+ at 30 Hz eventually. But if tuning needs to be a bit higher that is fine with me, preferably around 32-33 Hz. I guess that would make me save my goal for another day, but ultimately something above 150 is what I want. The allowable dimensions for my box are roughly W49.5" by H27" by D35", although I am striving for less depth. So, somewhere around 22-24 internal cubes. I have searched for a long time, constantly researching, which has only made my decision harder. I might have my mind set on trying two of the crescendo audio 3KWDs, since they are the same board as the saz 3000 and the atomic 3000, and they are only 540 each. I looked into AQ, hifonics, refurb sundowns, audiopipe, rd, cactus, and many others I am forgetting as well. So basically, what do you guys think I can do to get this goal? Can any combo of amps and subs along with box tuning and size make this possible for under $2250?

I run ED equipment and I don't even really trust rd products lol, like the alpha v2 though. I will be sure to email him about that, thanks.

The new Z v.2 are basically the replacement for the Nightshade v.1 and the new Nightshade v.2 are based off Sundowns "Monster" motor design and will be rated at 2500 watts rms! The new Z v.2 is highly customizable to your needs. sweeet. I think I found a winner. Are they out? Price and t/s?

Are the zv.2s and nightshades different drivers?

Newtons 4th law- Kicker sucks. I mean the proof is in the pudding. Of course this pudding is a mixture of sarcasm and just kidding puddings. Clarification, I was joking now that's the way it should be done!

What do the dc level 5 or 4 xls and the AA mayhems run for? Just a ballpark figure, or I could call after work, but I'm here for another 7 hours today

Haha probably a little bit more than my budget will let me spend too, patience is a virtue I guess

Audiopipe is another alternative, but I also like the idea of strapping the hifonics amps. Still think he should maybe consider a new set up. Then again I am biased against kicker, just a personal choice no one jump on me haha.

I'm guessing dual 2s then, you need to say that, we can't assume that 2 ohm L7s means dvc 2, unless you mean d 1s wired in series/parallel. If d 1s, I still suggest an AQ2200d, if d2s, maybe an alpine mrp-2000? I think they are 2000 rms at 2 ohms and run about 400 if I'm not mistaken. If you haven't bought the second sub, have you considered a completely different set up? There might be a cheaper and better alternative for your goals.

x100000

Don't purchase amplifiers based on supposed "sound quality". More information about how these amplifiers will be used would be helpful. Just off hand I can't say any one of those would be extremely high on my "to buy" list primarily due to the limited power output capabilities compared to my preferences.....but I'm a big fan of headroom. Also, must it be a single 4-channel, or are you open to the idea of two 2-channel amplifiers? Yeah, headroom makes everything better! Do you have 2 ohm speakers or something? Otherwise you could bridge 2 4 channels, or 2 2 channels as impious is suggesting. Even a 6 channel, send more power to your front components if you are set on having both front and rear speakers.

Gains don't control the amount of wattage. Its used to set when the desired output of the amplifier is used, guess it's dependent on what volume level and what preout V you have, they are limited factors. I know I didn't word that well at all... Sorry, someone try and clear that up, just nit picking though . But yeah, 2000 would be fine all in all...