abmoore

9 if you count the seat for your twin babies in the back. I checked I have a little more space right now than the XL with the third row in, so I should be able to decrease the height and increase the depth, then do vertical slots, or one center vertical slot with more square port area, tune it to 30 Hz, and still have room for batts and amps!!!! Now for a design....

Ohhh you have your third seat in. I have 41.5" basically depth wise. What is yours tuned to. I was thinking 30 Hz with more on the large side of port area.

You are making little sense and you are still wrong, in fact my gain is less than 1/6th. Gain, as I said does not limit the output of the amplifer, given you have the preout V necessary, just the volume where you reach the power... Why would you think that at 1/6th speakers start becoming mechanically limited anyway, gains are set mostly by ear or with a RTA if you have one. And they don't sound horrible... For 200 by the way. I said I do hear the speakers bottoming out... That happens when they are supposed to be high passed 100Hz and instead they are at 63 at 24 db/oct. I KNEW this would cause a dilemma. I didn't care because I knew I was changing soon. By the way, your last sentence was just a tid bit contradicting. Oh, and again, excess power does not blow speakers, clipping does. Headroom is used by many people.

I will go ahead and say it. Spend more on the install than the speakers, the difference between a 300 dollar component set and a 900 dollar set won't matter with an improper install. Where do you want to mount them? Do you have deadening yet? After that, we can reccommend a good set. And are your subs ported or sealed.

Your build log is amazing!!! It is really going to help with all of the detailed, quality, step by step pictures and descriptions. I wanted to see someone fiberglass those doors and fit an 8 in there :: That box does look really good, do the ports along the bottom affect the sound since it is so close to the back, it almost seems like it would act as another port lol. What are the dimensions of that box again? 49.5 x looks to be 28 x whats the depth, yes that was an odd way of asking. The reason I ask is because I would need to fit my batts in front of the box, behind the seat, as well as my amps, unless I use the space to the sides to hold some of that. Wonder if I could just slightly change it by changing the horizontal to vertical slot ports and what effect that would have, I would at least have a spot for my amp rack and batteries.

Gain doesn't control wattage, it is used to match the desired max output of your amp and match that with other amps, and you can't do the math like that. There are many other variables, like that amp is capable of far over 320 watts, and the speaker does not work up to 100 watts, then just blow... They are bottoming out because they are rated for a 100 Hz highpass, my sub stage is crossed so low I have to compromise and risk them bottoming out. Plus, only at full volume does a head unit put out the closest it will come to maximizing pre out voltage. Not to mention music is dynamic, that 100 watts is not actually what the speakers see.... LMAO? Really? Make sure you don't say something that ignorant before you LMAO..... Maybe you should research instead of falsely patronizing people. I know I am not all knowing, I am not even close, but at least I do not try and mock someone based on asking for help. That's what this forum is for. And even worse, people who are trying to learn that read this thread might believe what you said and go spread it around, or worse, implement that in their system. Who's laughing now...

I have plenty of edead on my sheet metal and framing, although I hear that was a waste, and some ccf. All I am missing is the ccf and mlv, will that help midbass any more than the deadener?

I wouldn't mind giving them a little extra, I don't like pushing amps all the way, I like headroom also just wanting to see what they do at .5, there are some results out there just wanted to verify. My electrical wouldn't like that very much, one ohm sounds good.

Why should my gain be set at 1/6th, it depends on what my attentuation in my eq is set to as well as how it matches up with my sub, I am turning it up to 26 and my maximum volume is 35, so I would say that is pretty good. But the phasing page was helpful, I never thought of doing it with a passive set before. My left tweeter has a huge dip in it compared to my right, I will change that first and see how that goes. I still would like to try another set, the midbass is really not up to par in these IMO. But if I can experiment enough with these and get good results, I might hold on to them.

Arc audio FD 4150 bridged to 4 ohms, and how would I individually control phase on a passive set when I am not active?

I'm suprised no one brought up sensitivity. So I will haha. It also looks like when Vd increases due to Sd increasing, that sensitivity increases. So larger Vas and lower Fs both correspond with a higher sensitivity?

Yeah, eclipse sc8365, the woofers bottom out real easy, and the aluminum dome tweet is pretty harsh. Vocals almost sound nasally and echoes. That might be due to lack of the ccf and mlv I am about to install. They were pretty much stock door angled, I changed the mid and tweet, but now the TA sounds a little off. I was thinking the CDT HD 62US, morels, rainbow kickbass, ID CX64, or diamond d6s. The cdts sound good for the money and I like the idea of the free image tweeter on the anniversary edition, plus good reviews. Not sure what the strongest midbass performer is though.

I was just wondering what are some of the best ways to keep impedence rise down. I have read that it doesn't matter much in daily but I don't see why that is true, unless it is only a db or so difference. Are there box designs that make a difference or cooling methods?

No problem, keep us updated on the decisions you make or if you need anymore help with that.

Similar, except with a vertical port, although if that sounds good its probably worth a try. You have an XL though, whats the depth of the box? And I forgot SSA does designs haha.

OK.... so generally the lower the Fs, the larger the Vas? It seems the tighter the suspension, the higher the Fs, which would be a decreased Cms correct? So Vas would increase with more Sd obviously, and a higher Fs driver, that would lower Cms, decreases Vas. This all assumes that Mms is the same. As Cms decreases (suspension gets tighter), the Fs would increase and Vas decrease. And as Cms increases (suspension gets looser), Fs would decrease and Vas would increase. As you said, this assumes Mms (and Sd) remain constant. Not sure if it was simply a misstatement; But a lower Mms would increase Fs. It's mass on a spring. The more mass you have on the end of a spring, the slower it will resonant. I wouldn't go so far as to say that a lighter cone = lower Vd. Generally yes a decrease in Sd will be accompanied by a decrease in Mms assuming the same cone material and thickness is used. And a smaller Sd would yield a smaller Vd. But Mms is more than just the mass of the cone. Mms is the mass of the moving assembly (cone, coil, former, etc) including acoustic load. A driver with a long coil overhung motor could have a higher Mms than a driver of the same materials but using a short-coil motor topology like XBL^2 even though they may have the same Xmax. This is a case of not drawing too many conclusions from the "all things equal" scenario. Low Mms + Low Cms would = higher Fs (light mass on a tight spring = higher resonant frequency). Or, think of it this way...since both Mms and Cms are in the denominator, Fs will be inversely proportional to both Cms and Mms. If those go down, Fs will go up. If those go up, Fs will go down. Started off good, think you may have trailed off a little there towards the latter part Haha I tripped myself up there, trying to remember that Cms is a reciprical of tightness of the suspension. I see where I messed up. The mass on the spring analogy helps too. Just remembered back to my physics classes, I think I remember Fs being used, never connected the dots for some reason. When I said the lighter cone, I meant as well as a lower vd, would that equate to a lower Mms. Which would generally be less spl at a lower Fs because there is less force behind the air? That sounds like where Bl^2/Re becomes relevant right? The higher the Telsa*?* on a driver with a low Fs, has a lot of low end output, because that is when Re is the highest, so basically more force moving that large mass on the end of a loose spring, while being able to do this under a heavy resistance. But I guess that all depends on where Bl^2/Re is measured, which I have no idea.

Saw that, I am not sure how to incorporate a center flared port by using that. I want this to be a challenge where I can work on my woodworking skills, probably with some help from my uncle, woodworking is his hobby. I have built boxes before, just not this size or difficulty level.

I have a couple full pass amps I am going to keep just for that. And I have the pxa h100 so I could always start active (practice) by adding a midbass to the doors after a while, and trying to incorporate that with the passive set. Not sure how that would work, just a thought, or I guess just get rid of the crossover from the passive set (duh). Just need to decide on a passive set now....

Back at you ::

I am not recommending that the OP spend 5-600 bucks on an HO, BUT do think anyone contemplating adding a second battery should also concider a HO alternator as a better solution for a Daily Driver. Agreed. ::

OK.... so generally the lower the Fs, the larger the Vas? It seems the tighter the suspension, the higher the Fs, which would be a decreased Cms correct? So Vas would increase with more Sd obviously, and a higher Fs driver, that would lower Cms, decreases Vas. This all assumes that Mms is the same. Speaking of which, the lighter the cone of the driver, and the lower the Vd, the lower the Mms. The lower the Mms, the lower the Fs. So there is generally** some correspondance between Fs and the amount of air a driver can move, therefore less spl? That is assuming a low Mms, low Cms, which would lead to the low Fs. Although high Mms, to a certain point, will create more spl? Am I catching on at all? This does show some relationship between xmax and Fs and spl, but proves it is not always important, especially with low Mms (but with high Mms, high Vd, high xmax, low Fs, high power handling, comes a true low end beast). Sorry for all of that lol.

An HO alternator supplys the current continuously NOT instantaneously. SO NOTHING is straining, not the battery, not the amplifier, not the HO alternator. A larger or dual battery is only helpful for a short instataneously burst and then is useless until charged again. THIS IS the "claim to fame" of the AGM gel batterys is they recover quick. What is going to make them recover quick????? one of two things either you will turn down the volume until your factory alternator recharges them OR YOU INSTALL a HO alternator and DON'T have to turn the volume down to recover, you just keep enjoying your music. Reread my post, I said it doesn't supply current instantaneously. Most alternators DO NOT continuously supply max current. With more reserve power, those short burst don't affect the voltage as much. And most likely his alt will not be putting out full power, unless he is reving his engine... Batteries also don't recharge immediately, it's a logarithmic recharge. And what about long drives when the alt heats up? Then it really is not putting out full current. Like I said the combo is the only sure way of maintaining voltage constantly, I was trying to save him money because with that little amount of current draw, he will be fine with batts. Even cheap ones like Dekas. With less than 200 amps of current, ESPECIALLY with music, there is no need to spend $5-600. I have seen many cars be fine with just larger batteries pulling that same amount of current. And he WOULD be discharging the stock battery every time a large note hits.... The alternator can't immediately charge that. Maybe we can agree on a battcap or something like that. Recharges quickly and discharges fast, it's not like he is competing.

I do, but I am not quite sure how to match drivers based on where break up and distortion starts. I really am starting to consider passive components, and focus on finding the best mounting locations, a solid install (learning some better techniques), and properly deadening the truck. I'm sure I could find some better components without spending too much that have a more natural sound, little better power handling, higher efficiency, and better midbass. I might tone down the sub stage as well. I want to make sure I have plenty of time to research about active so I can know more about it when I go forth with it. I feel that is my best option right now on my budget, unless anyone else thinks other wise I guess.

First of all, that is not necessarily true. I recommend the opposite. For the amount of current you are pulling, a decent agm battery under the hood and a small secondary in the back should be fine. An alternator cannot discharge current instantaneously, although it does make a difference in larger set ups where the alternator is straining to charge the system. It is also not good for the life of a battery to be discharged everytime a large note hits. So the combo of the two is obviously the best, but with only one hundred some odd amps, the battery route will be cheaper and sufficient. If you do look at alts, there are other proven brands like powermaster, ohio generators and iraggi.

I think the question came down to how high will the full ranges play. I mean I would rather sacrifice some output and midbass for a cleaner and fuller response.