rak_24540

KU40, do you know where I can find that kit, to lift seat up?

Used a 1.5v , I guessed right on 1 speaker , wrong on the other. Now both push out. Thanks for the help.

I'm trying to install them but the post are not marked which is positive and negative, how can you tell which is which?

I have 2 shop's in my area in VA, I stop going to 1 because the professional install that I paid 400 for looked like a rats nest behind the back seat, They didn't hook it up they way I asked them too, grounds were bad, etc. , in my 99 3door silverado. I got fed up with the bull crap for a while( like 2 yrs) now I'm re doing my system , trying to do must of it myself. I bought 2 Kinetik batteries, went to the other shop just to hook the batteries up. I had to get 14 ft. of 0 ga. wire and connectors and fuse, $400 just to install batteries. That seems to high for me. I got them to price a ported box under back seat, which he said he could probably do for my 2-T110d4's, $500. I already have a sealed box under the seat fiberglassed to the floor, which I was going to get that out. Its hard for me to pay someone $500 for a box that he's not sure that it will work or not. Now I'm undecided on whether to even try anything else or not.

I have the MB PVF 213's in kick panels, and want to install these in my door. It says to run wires through the 213's first then out to the 164's. Each has it's own cross over so why would you do this? I'm running them off a RF T600-4 4 channel amp. I thought you would just run the 213's off front channel , then run rear channel to the 164's and you would be good. Then set my cross over's on my RF 3sixty.2 to HP on front , get it were I want it at, then set the BP on rear where I want it at and it would be good to go. What am I missing? What would be good settings for the cross over points to start with? Thanks

I'm looking to upgrade my current set up , which is 2-RF T110D4's sealed box under back seat. Want SQ and output. Going in a 99 silverado 3 door. I really don't want to get JL's , I'm trying to get something in my area that no one else has, but also sounds good and maybe out do the (JL's and Kicker, memphis) stuff. I e-mailed FI, but no response, don't want to deal with company who doesn't respond back to me. I will be buying rockford amps as soon as I know what subs I will be getting. Will be in ported box.

should it drop that quick with the batteries that I have?

I have a 99 3 door Z71. I've upgraded the big 3 to 1/0 ga. I've put 200 amp Iraggi alt. in. I've got 2 Kinetik 1800's in the back. My amps are a RF T600-4, T1000-1. My volt meter still jumps alot and my lights still dimm a little. I just bought the 2 kinetik's new about 3 weeks ago. I put those 2 back there because I was planning on upgrading sub amp and 2-12's. But if it can't keep up with what I have there's no need. Is there something I'm missing to do or what? I don't listen to stereo very often with truck off. I just don't understand what's going on.

Voltage does ok while driving just not sitting still.

Do I need to buy one of those Kinetik charges and replenish the batteries or something.

I have have a starting battery also. I just got the shop to install new power and grounds as well, about 2 weeks ago. I thought that was the problem, but it still exists even after changing and making sure grounds were good. Its not as bad as it was but it still does it. First get in truck everything is fine, last night after I went somewhere, I just set in trunk for maybe 10 min, with it cranked, listened to it at a pretty good volume but not wide open, meter dropped well below 14 (just regular dash meter). I turned it down and it goes back up. Something is not right.

I'm trying to get the " right " info on building my on system.

I made sure and I deleted and installed again. I was using up until it happened. I don't know of anybody who has one. I e-mailed RF but no response as of yet.

I had it for about 2 years now, I updated the software for it last week. Now it's a pain in the **s. I thought everything was fine, been doing good, now tonight it want connect through my Tungsten E2. It says i need the 3sixty.1 software to connect. My 3sixty.2 thinks it's a .1 now all of a sudden. I have reset everything, Uninstalled and re-installed the software to have the same thing come up. It thinks its a .1 for some reason. Any help well be appreciated.

Does this sub compare to jl sound quality? I'm looking to replace RF T110's in a sealed box , to something in a 2-12" ported box. I listen to a variety of music( rock, rap, metal, some country, etc) , just trying to find something that sounds good and will get pretty loud and still sound good. Power wise probably going with the RF T1500-1.

I have a 99 Siverado 3 door. What I want to do is take back seat out and build a box for subs so they will be behind driver seat stacked on top of each other. Take back seat and get cut so I will still have a half seat back there. No one in my area wants to deal with it. Is this a good idea? I just want my trunk to be able to carry 3 people instead of just 2. Would a ported box still be okay on one side of truck?

I'm only going to do 2 -12's. The captain's chair sounds good if it will fit back there, have to look into that.

Are they really backed up right now, If I order today when should I get my subs? I'm looking to get 2-12" Q's , just wondering if it takes a long time to get the subs. And Would 2 RF 1500-1's be good on these subs for a daily driver. Want subs to sound good on a variety of music (rock, rap, some country,metal ). Would get the 2 ohm version so I could strap amps together at 2 ohms.

No I have not built the box yet. I'm trying to decide on which subs to get first. I'm re-doing my wiring now, if it ever stops raining here. Putting 14 ga speaker wire to replace the 18 ga the shop around here put in the last time. I'm putting 8 ga wire to my subs. I'm replacing the Infinity kappa's in the kick panel's with MB Quart PVF's, (german made) I'm going to get the MB PCE 164 mid bass to put in my doors. My sub set up now is 2-RF T110's in a sealed box under back seat fiberglassed to the floor. So that going to be something to get out in the first place. I thought this set up would be good for rock or metal for tight punchy bass, but it sounds better with rap than rock. I listen to a variety of things and want it to produce good sound and output to whatever I listen too.

I didn't mean just chop in half and then bolt it back in. I meant , get it customized so it would look factory. Or find a shorter seat , like a 60/40 bench seat , like from a tahoe or something and just use a the 60 or 40 part, which ever fit the best.

I will , if I only need 1, I will get dual one subs and run 1ohm. Is the SQ that much better on the Q's vs. BL's. No one around my area carries anything like these, so I've never heard neither one. The 2 shops here only carry Rockford, JL, Pioneer, Kicker, sony stuff, no FI , RE,nothing like that so I'm just going on forums Info to make a decision .

Power wise it all depends on the set of subs I get. I want to match up amp to what I have. I'll probably just get the RF T20001, I was going to get the T40001 but might not go that route. I want my subs to sound clean but get nasty if I want them too. I already got the back seat out of my truck, re-doing the speaker wire to 14ga and going to get some stinger pro rca's to replace what I have. I listen to (rock, metal, rap, some country, just a variety of things). Want to sound good with all genre's of music. I have already did the big 3, replaced alt. to 220 amp, put 2 kinetik 1800's in the back waiting for what ever I get. And will add another if I need too.

I'm looking to put wire connectors to power, ground, and speaker wires to my amps. (RF T6000-4, RF T10001) Just wondering what sizes and types do you recommend? T600-4 power and ground are 4ga., speaker wire is 14ga. T10001 power and ground wire is 1/0ga, speaker wire is 14ga. Or is this a good idea? Maybe just the speaker wire, just looking for opinions.

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