Skullz

I guess the main thing is that there are more powerful class a/b old school amps out there for use on sub duty than the SS reference you have.

OMFG, Finally. :woot: :woot:

If all you want is H/U power then go to wally world and get the cheapest speakers they sell and go with them then. H/U power only lasts so long till you need more and if you like to go full range then its an absolute must to have one since you'll more than likely need around 125w just to get the midbass loud enough. Here is one little powerhouse of an amp @125w x2 @4ohm, bridgeable for 250x1@4ohm mono and it is not much bigger than a standard wallet you put in your back pocket. But hey to each their own i guess. http://www.****/forum/general-car-audio-discussion-questions/96004-soundigital-sd250-2d.html

Yup, till a minute ago and then it all came back.

Most speakers perform their best at or near rated power levels and to skimp out on the power to drive something to it's potential is a major loss.

SSD 12" is lower in price. BL 12" is higher in price. All others seem to be fine.

I used to use cotton batting to line all my sub boxes with years ago with no adverse affects, well a factory is different than placing some cotton in a box.

All dust is explosive but i have never heard of cotton dust before. Answering the question of cotton working as polyfill, i would think so to a point but it doesn't have as much air space as polyfill so using more than just lining the outsides of the enclosure might be a waste.

Then get a class A/B 2ch amp that is capable of 1200w bridged.

I used exhaust pipes years ago with no problems, just use some cotton/dacron batting 1" thick and wrap it around the pipe and tape it on there and it will sound just like any other tube used for ports.

For his front stage? And the OP stated he wanted a four channel amp. As a side note, I'd like to know how they can get 1400 watts with a 100 amp fuse. 100% efficient amp? The old ppi a1200 amps had a 100 amp fuse and were capable of 1200w + on good electrical and no one that has ever owned one will say it wasn't capable of the power it made. http://www.precisionpower.com/Manuals/Amplifier%20Manuals/Precision_Power_Art%20Series%20Axxx%20Amplifiers.pdf He stated he was going to be powering a set of comps, so why not just get a 2ch for now and add a 2nd when the time comes he adds more to go active with.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_26074_Boston_Acoustics_GT-2300.aspx

So many people overlook the fact that JL Audio has patents on a number of things so when you buy one that has a patent on it your going to pay what JL charges period, anything without a patent is in line with what other equipment is out there.

With the better processors today you don't see much use in pads for car audio.

The new 6.5's look pretty nice for the price. http://store.12velectronics.com/mirus/

1500w is still 1500w whether you have a class a/b or a class d amplifier so efficiency is not a main concern unless you plan on having it enclosed and worried about the heat generated.

http://www.hybrid-audio.com/products.html http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20533_JBL_C608GTI_MKii.aspx Rainbow Focal Hertz Audison Dynaudio Morel The list could go on and on but this will give you some ideas and options.

Wow, i don't think i have ever seen shipping that high on items that could be combined in one box and be half as much as what your order came to. Once i seen the shipping costs i would have stopped and called FI to order directly on the phone instead of ordering online so they could have had combined shipping.

I wouldn't either i don't think the CDA or CDE lines are quality lines right now worth buying.

Another battery as close to the amp as possible and the wire size won't be nearly as important as it can be with longer runs of wire, So 4awg will be perfectly fine for a short run of a foot or two from the battery to amp.

Nice list you have going there and i was also looking on ebay for some of those same items to buy for my car but thankfully i live close to a company that sells the volara foam and can get it in 1/4" since i don't have to pay shipping and as you mentioned the mlv is going to be an expensive ship no matter where you buy from. I still haven't made made my mind up yet on what brand of deadener to go with since i don't know if i'll be doing inner and outer door skins or just outer ones for now.

Cool to see them taking care of ya getting ya put ahead of others to complete your order, gotta love CS like that.

Looks like the coil heated the spider to the point of it deteriorating and snapping the tinsel lead from over excursion.

Couldn't help but think it's a toilet when i first seen it.

I guess my question is what is it looking for and what is the sensitivity required to trigger it.