Skullz

JBL are known for taking lots of power and sound good doing it. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xRnCsPTtqkL/p_109MS62C/JBL-MS-62C.html#overview-tab This will let you run full active if you choose to go active and if not then bridge the channels for some serious 2 channel power for a set of comps. http://www.precisionpoweronlinestore.com/products/P900.4-900w-4%252dChannel-Phantom-Series-Amplifier.html Personally i would go with the bridged mode on those jbl's , nothing wrong with gobs and gobs of headroom.

If sonix sold out of the p660c's since i think i was the last one to buy but i'm stuck in limbo atm so i'm thinking they sold em all and it wasn't updated fast enough so if that's the case then i am looking at the new jbl ms-62c's. Here's a few vid's i found on youtube of them.

There are literally hundreds of options to go with and to just begin rambling off a bunch of brands without knowing what exactly your looking for and what kind of budget you have to work with are all factors that need to be considered.

Make a police report about it and try and post on as many audio forums as you can and hope someone that knows him or lives near him can help you out. Save all your correspondences between you and him as proof of agreement on the transaction.

You will probably have to go sealed with the 15's in a 2.5cf box with 1lb polyfill per cf to get the response your wanting but you will sacrifice some db's for the smaller footprint of the box.

PWK can be a hit or miss type of thing depending on your application, hit if your wanting SQ over spl and sometimes a miss on spl designs.

I edited my post to include to shorter version.

Get a pair of these and you'll be all set. http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/XScorpion-Long-GM-Battery-Terminal-14p235.htm EDIT: Pick the one that matches what you pull out. http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/XScorpion-Standard-GM-Battery-Terminal-14p234.htm

If you have any of the port outside of the box it will add to the volume of the box changing the frequency, unless you compensate in your calculations for the increase in volume you will be off in your tuning.

You'll be perfectly fine with that wire even with a lower wire count and less flexibility you will still get the power to where it is needed, to me the biggest factor in any wire is the jacket that protects it from the elements and from any kind of fluid it may come in contact with. I stay as far away from the car audio wire as i possibly can cause of the pvc jacket covering it cause simply put if it can be rubbed through and squeezed so easily than that is something i am not willing to put under the hood of my car.

clipping does not cause damage on its own. like i said above, there are only two ways to kill a woofer. some reading http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm So your saying it is absolutely fine to play hard clipped music at full tilt with no worries of destroying your subs? Clipping is the number one cause of speaker failures and to suggest that clipping can not cause it on it's own is a lie. Clipping leads to the overheating of the coil at a higher rate than you'll see from sending 2 to 3 times the power cause the coil can make use of the full piston travel of a clean sine wave VS. a clipped signal that prevents the speaker from full travel and leads to overheating and finally a failure of the coil. I'm no expert on the matter but clipping and distortion are the bane of all audio and we all strive to have as little of it as possible.

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

I would first check and see that your music is clip free with windows media player's scope feature along with audacity checks, then make sure your not clipping through your H/U or amplifier once you know you have clip free music then you'll have no problem putting as much as twice and even more power to your subs. Just make sure that if you begin to smell your coils to back a few clicks off the volume to lower and stop the clipping or overpowering them. EDIT: Anything within your budget from the selection will work quite well.

Just got me a PPI 2150am the other day for a really nice price. OS is the best way to go though and for what you can get it at is insanely cheap.

Yup

What a lot of people forget about with older amps made back in the 90's and late 80's were that they were rated @12v and not 14.4v so when you put them on +14v you can see an increase of up to 15% more power and the quality of those amps far surpass most amps in today's market.

Nakamichi

200w x 2 @ 4 ohm Bridged http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Power-Ax-400-/140697241158?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item20c2358646#ht_500wt_921

I would find the cause and not the effect. Something is causing the baffle to resonate more near that speaker than the rest of the box, so i would try and brace more to see if that helps.

If you just screwed them into the wood then i would use some CA-superglue in the hole to make the wood act as if it is a metal nut by soaking into the wood and should provide a bit of grip for the screws, Don't screw them in for a few minutes till the glue is set-up or they'll stick in there forever. If you use t-nuts or something else that requires a bolt then use some loc-tite on them and let them sit a few hours before bumping again.

Before doing all kinds of massive amounts of work i would at least try some sort of baffle to test them with in the doors to see if you even like how well they play and sound before going all in and trying to incorporate them into your door panels.

Sounds like a pimp deal i may have get in on.

I would get one more set for the simplest way to wire them, which would be to wire a pair in series and then wire the 3 sets in parallel to a decently powerful 2ch amp. The amp will be seeing roughly 2.6ohms per channel with them all so you'll want something capable of powering that many speakers. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18558_Boston-Acoustics-GT-2200.html

Funny to hear that most if not all of the senators had websites with pictures that were pirated and not authorized from the person allowed for use, gotta love hypocrisy by law makers that now are running for cover and not wanting to sign that into law.

I guess the best way to go about where everything sounds best would be to fire it up and start taping speakers to locations and see how well they sound and where you get the best possible sound stage from, you can get that 3/4" foam and makes some quick and easy pods to see how well they sound down in the kicks or somewhere in between.