Skullz

So your trying to stir the pot over here?

If i'm not mistaken you turn the switch to mono and the run the rca's to 1-3 or 2-4 for stereo bridged but you might want to check your manual. EDIT: Switch it to 2ch and run the rca's from 1-3 or 2-4. They more than likely sum both channels in mono for front and rears so it may not make a difference which pairs you use.

I can't get any of mine on photobucket to work either but i can use ones on my pc if you want to keep them stored there and link directly.

Pic might be to big, try reducing the size.

Thought they were added to the store yesterday? Glad to see you guys carrying them.

The alternator, AGM are not like NiMH, NiCAD, or Lithium Batteries that require special chargers to charge them.

SSA, FI, AA, DD are the some of the best non-mainstream names in the game. You have to pay to play.

Deka, Shuriken, stinger along with a couple of others are good brands to go with.

The brand is still too new and not proven itself yet, maybe time will tell if they stay in business long enough to make a much better and more informed decision to reliability and dependability.

I still feel that class A/B packs more low end punch than the class D counterparts but the class D can play cleaner with less distortion and heat than the class A/B but i still prefer my class A/B amps for front stage.

Welcome

So weird to see all that and a tiny amp powering it. Congratulations on the 152 though.

Use what you have and if they don't work as your expecting them to then i would consider maybe a change but why change now without knowing how it will even sound first, after all you have them at your disposal for use and if they don't do as they should then make the change to something different. Couldn't say how many times we see people change their minds on things without even using the item they purchased to know they will or will not like but to each their own, it is your time and money so your free to do as you choose to do.

http://www.car-part.com/index.htm Choose your ride and part and scroll to the bottom and find the asterisk and click on that number and work your way back to the first page trying to find the one closest to you that's the cheapest, it will at least buy you some time till you can get an H/O alt when you have the funds.

I just got a boston acoustics gt2300 that i had to send back cause i got serious engine noise along with a high pitch whine with the engine off, possible like mine you had a cold solder somewhere on the board causing the noise.

To me he lost all respect after the tire fiasco asking for donations and then getting called out on it.

They only make recones once a week so as they go in order from time placed and depending on where you are you may get in a tad earlier or get unlucky and be the first in line that was cut off from the previous week.

If they're off by an inch then it's possible you got 12" recones instead of the 10" recones.

I have the same set and love them, you might want to go active or use a different set of passives though cause even though you'll get plenty of midbass punch you won't get that deep bass sound with those crossovers and once you go active or use some high quality crossovers they'll bring the bottom end alive.

On the sides you'll have to pry them open, so use a butter knife and gently pry the sides open. I have the same ones and one crossovers tabs broke leaving me to tape it closed but there isn't a lot you can do though.

Would be easier to name the ones made here than the ones made abroad.

If you have an ipod or something similar with phone plug to rca adapter and see if the signal is still clean or your still getting noise.

When setting gains you want the SSF set just below tuning, you want the bass knob completely up so it is getting full power from the H/U and any setting other than sub out on the H/U off and sub out turned up all the way. Don't make things more complicated than they need to be by using 1/2 setting cause once you go past where you think you had it set your now beginning to soft clip it and eventually getting into hard clip territory if your not careful.

I do not recall what i was looking for when i came across this thread but it is very interesting and full of all kinds of good information regarding recordings and dynamic range of music. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/81619-reference-quality-commercial-recordings.html

Once you have a lower quality bit rate of a track you'll never be able to increase it's quality by raising the bit rate cause of the compression to the master your trying to copy from. What you want to do is to go from WAVE, FLAC, Apple lossless or something of higher quality and then make copies in mp3 320bit format for use in usb flash drives, there is nothing wrong with using wave in usb flash drives if your drives are large enough to hold what you want to listen to.