j-roadtatts

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum.

Stock cam? Does it fall instantly, or gradually, or at high rpm? It has a very lumpy cam. The fall is instant when you try to get into it.

This is very possible J. Ideally the Holley would have a 3/8 fuel line and electric fuel pump. I replaced the factory 5/16 before I realized this. I have a fuel gauge installed out the carburetor, which reads correctly at 7 lbs. The car runs great once it is through the hesitation though, and screams when you punch it on the highway!! I have the correct electric fuel pump, and may have to replace the line again to 3/8.

Not really an at rpm, just when I gun it. Collates with the vacuum dropping from 8-12 to 1 at best on the gauge. Then the vacuum Rockets back up and the car takes off. Yes the holley has a retarded amount adjustment. The Excelerator pump works off the mechanical linkage, so I would think it would fill the void, once set correctly. I only adjust one thing and then test drive. I bumped up the squirter nozzle, so more fuel sooner. This should be correct based on the power to weight ratio of the car, and tall axle gear ratio. The vacuum still dropped the same but, was a lot less hesitation. Then I tighten down the carburetor more to the manifold, as I suspected I had over tightened, and got a severe vacuum leak. Then I pulled the carburetor, and cleaned the mounting surfaces, and checked the gasket. My torque wrench does not go low enough, so just tightened less than before. Also added washers, don't recall why hadn't added them before. Think I had a slight vacuum leak that I solved. Vacuum still drops to zero when I punch it parked in the garage. And was too late for a test drive, so no test under load yet. So recap, fixed a vacuum leak, and added more fuel sooner via mechanical. Didn't get a test drive yet. If I can't get it in the morning, I will use my phone a friend to call my step brother who is a mechanic.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump. Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs. I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot.

Curiosity is one of my strongest motives.

I apologize Ryan. I can be painfully analytical sometimes. What i was trying to ask is, advancing the timing should boost the vacuum correct? And is the result of the engine running hotter?

I assumed that's what boosted meant. Making sure I wasn't missing something.

Define boosted please?

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory? I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge.

My understanding of the combustion engine, is that the vacuum is created by the thermal dynamics of the engine. From my understanding the timing is what controls where the heat is in the motor. This affects the cacuum being pulled through the Venturi. On a Holley carburetor all functions except for the Excelerator pump are vacuum operated. The Excelerator pump is controlled mechanically with the throttle linkage. There are three variables to Excelerator pump, the diaphragm, the linkage Cam and the squirters.

Talked to a guy over the weekend who had really good luck with aluminum oxide blasting on the last truck he had painted, painters thought it left a fantastic surface. That's exactly what the gentleman said he would use. Was telling me about how it was mine in Florida, when I asked him if it was synthetic.

That's the plan my friend.

I am considering it, That an electric cutouts. A solid understanding of the tuning process is still needed though.

Most likely not a leak. I have all the vacuum lines capped, and checked for leaks around the intake and carburetor.

I am carb stupid. Small engine carbs, no problem, but I've never worked on an automotive unit.Thank you for the input my friend. I about have my head wrapped around the concept, and believe I understand the theory. The Holley is based on circuits. Each circuit needs to kick in in the appropriate order, and adjusted in that same order.

Looks tastey! Was very tasty Mikey! Basically my vegetarian chili with hamburger in it.

One of the rear brakes is dragging. I need to back out the self adjuster. The gentleman I purchased the master cylinder from, claimed the self adjusters would not work. I hadn't figured out why he said that, but I think I should.

I think I about have the holley carburetor figured out. I have the idle circuit dialed, I have the transfer slot circuit dialed, and appropriate size jets and power valve. The vacuum drops to almost 0 when I punch it. I would say there is more likely hesitation than a bog. I believe I should install a larger Excelerator pump nozzle, to introduce more fuel quicker. Ryan or anybody else have input on this?

I talked to a media blaster yesterday. It really helped to get enlightened by somebody involved in the industry.

I really just needed to reverse engineer the selection process, based on how I handle my service job. I am looking for somebody that is interested in what I want, not what they want to do. Also does not mind explaining the logistics involved.

I just got done talking to another paint shop. He took one look at the car and didn't want anything to do with the job. He did give me a little insight and also a bunch of references. The process continues...

Good to know.

Hopefully you can go visit mom when you need a home cooked meal. Didn't you know, we renamed the hop Seans food network.