j-roadtatts

Please forgive me if I seem vague. It's been over 6 months since I heard them, and I admit my lack of experience with a multitude of tweeters to compare them to. The fact that I can get my the vocals to sound great from the mids without tweeters speaks scores to me. Being this is my "learning experience with tweeters" car, it looks like the awnser is in the question. Buy a few sets and play them back to back!

If I had to guess, the overall FR was lacking most right around the 2Khz-2.5khz range. (Xover point) Yes strained the driver trying to eq. I feel the solution is get a tweeter with a super low Fs, and build new pods with better aiming. I'm pretty sure I know the answers to all my questions and I'm just being a hardheaded fuck. sorry guys. What you got to concider Ryan?!

No, not really. A little too smooth and sterile if anything. Not crisp. Possibly Lacking down low. Since the vocals are where they lacked most.

Do you mind posting a pic of your tweeters installed? would you of bought the same tweeters if you didn't already have them? Ive really been loving jamming the live music lately!

I will add I preemptively gave a guy with really wicked freaky good ears, a set of the mids in anticipation of this day. In hopes that he would know exactly what I am hearing from the mids, and be able to guide me through my questions with the highs. It seemed like a smart way to learn at the time, we will see if my logic has sound. Lol

Not too shabby! I am curious if you guys ran any of the LLP around the rear wheel wells and strut? (would think more road noise comes from there then the whole floor put together) Or is what is in this picture everything?

I know there is no replacement for displacement. (Sd). I feel I was lacking clarity and detail, not output. So I feel my problem is more of a mismatch frequency response, due to poor aiming. That and/or a lack of turning ability, due to the limited processor I have not being able to adjust individually for mismatched aiming. Possibly a bad phase setting didn't help either. Lastly not the most stellar tweeter to start with. I think all other control points seem good. I would really like to get one car to sound stellar with tweeters, even if I never run again after that. That was the goal with this car when I started and I'm sticking to it. For the learning process if nothing else. My next two questions: do my assumptions on what control points need to change sound correct? what physical attributes does an 8ohm tweet have over a 4ohm, or vice versa? Bigger coil, etc? What are the small trade-offs between the two? I'm not asking you guys to spoon feed me. Just feel this is the quickest way to get the simple answers I need.

Girls chasing girlsTOP!

I'm going to the powder puff game tonite. The only way to watch footy footy football!

I ran full rangers on axis, in dashpods, in the last car for 5+ years. (Fostex ff85) we all basically had this same conversation then, and I switched from tweets to full rangers. I feel I need to back track at this point, to find the answer to what I'm asking. SO Please bear with me, as it was a while since I actually had the tweets playing. I've had tweeters in a few cars. The one that sounded great to me had the tweeters on axis. The last car I moved them around but never aimed them. (A-pillar, then top of door, top of door sounded decent) This car I would say the the driver tweeter is at probably 60 degrees of axis and the passenger is on axis. With this car and the one before I could move my head to directly in line with the tweeters (not center, just inline) and they sounded great. I feel I destroyed these tweeters by trying to get the driver side tweet to sound good. Looking back I was continually changing the settings trying to get a natural sound, and most likely overdrove them with a poor setting at one time during that phase. So here's where I'm at today. I did some test driving yesterday, to gauge road noise and the wind factor. The road noise is very low on this car and the wind does not really blow into the car. There is definitely no wind force on the dash near the tweeters. The wind and road noise is low enough I can hear the mids clear as day even at low to moderate volumes. I have the mids tuned to where there is no need for a tweeter at low and moderate listening levels. The soundstage is up high and the vocals are clear, with JUST the mids. Unfortunately they get very shrilly at high volume. So my question lies in tweeter aiming and how critical is it. I see most people say they just aim for the domelight, which I see would probably net me roughly 15° Off axis from both tweeters to the listening position. Is there a reason why not to aim tweeters on axis?

yeah the mountain lions and bears are probably the scariest. I been face to face with a bear a few times, never the lion thankfully. They move like lightning so would be a short encounter.

Bears have been off the chain this year too. Mad sightings in town.

Woke up in the middle of the night to a skunk in the chicken coop. Dude was eating up all the food and making a hell of a racket. Lol

Had freezing temperatures here last two nights. Unfortunately Most of the vegetables left in the garden didn't make it as the freeze came a today early. Didn't get any damn cherries either because of the late freeze in the spring.

Sounds like you speak from experience. Haha

I ended up going to the parts store and having them read the codes. Oddly none were what I expected. They were evaporative control system, steering angle sensor, and battery sensor. I assume the the evap control is most likely the charcoal canister, the other two I assume are just sensors. Perhaps the stereo amps are throwing the battery code. Steering angle sensor is anyone's guess. I did look up the Bluetooth, crazy they make em that cheap.

Okay, I looked up some large formats and think I answered my own questions. Some of them look like a speaker magnet attached to a tweeter cone!! Like a motorcycle with a V8. That should be able to swat some air out of the way at highway speeds. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-soft-dome-tweeters/scanspeak-discovery-d2604/833000-1-dome-tweeter/ They all have a low fs. and good power handling, So what am I looking for? Just personal taste past that?

I'm not rapidly destroying them. More likely a case of listening to just the right song to loud after my ears are desensitized from long listening or getting to crazy "that one night" type thing. The Seas tweeters were given to me, so that was the reason for using them. I don't know that i need a large format per say, BUT really don't know what i'm missing out on? Is it going to be one of those "OMG I will never run anything else!!!!!" religious experiences? Or just cool!.. that was easy to tune. This is an SQ build with sealed subs and sounds very accurate. If it will benefit that cause and how, is what I am asking? SO I understand your saying a large format has a better thermal handling, more headroom, and more gusto to give all around. More detail perhaps? Is that the long and short of that? I could see that being more divine than just another 1" car tweet.

I am running the Seas u18rnx/p mid and Alpine F600 amplifier, which pushes 100 Watts @4ohms. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/seas-woofers-6-7/seas-prestige-u18rnx/p-h1571-7-curv-cone-woofer/ I have the gain set about halfway and was using the individual speaker level controls on the head unit. I have the mids crossed at 2500 with a 12db slope, and the highs at 3200 with a 12db slope. To answer your question Sean they would play higher if I could EQ them individually. As I have been running without tweets for about six months now, and have the mids sounding pretty damn good without tweets. Only because I can manipulate the top end of the mid without the tweeter in my way, with the crossover and eq. This is why I think at this point a metal dome will add the "sparkle" and not much else. Dont know that I need the tweeter to have a "full body" or "warm" sound. All that said I definitely use things to their limits. No big deal as I am willing to learn from my mistakes. If the answer is as simple as don't be so hard on them that is what I will except.

I had to drive the truck for a week and even it is limping. There is brake fluid pissing out the backside of the master. So that will be the next damn thing to fix. I don't know why shit always has to break all at once.

My check engine light came back on in the daily. She has ran great since I reset the codes. At least I know it is a sensor, and not an injector or something catastrophic to that degree. Hoping I can get a parts store to break out a OBDII reader. I'm assuming it's either the MAF or one of the O2 sensors. With any luck they can point me in the right direction so I don't have to spend all day testing sensors.

I was pretty bummed the pump the neighbor gave me wouldn't fit, as it was the high output factory replacement.

I ordered the Edelbrock mechanical from Summit racing this morning. The holley is made in Korea and the Edelbrock is made in the USA. Thank you for all the input guys.

55 degrees and raining here. Fall hit with vengeance.

I honestly don't know but that would be my guess. That or worn out to the point it is seizing up. The rebuild kit would be for people that are trying to keep concourse correct, and relatively they want an arm and a leg for them. The factory pump only puts out 30 gph, and the aftermarket HO does 110gph. Being my MO on this car has always kind of been a superstock rally sport kinda theme, I think the Holley mechanical is the obvious choice.