j-roadtatts

Made some wicked good picadillo for my ladies, with the rest of the brisket.

Since we are on the subject. Is there a theory why some combo's are set up as to where the tweeter fires across the midrange, with the mid pointed up? Or is it just a product of endless hrs of testing in that particular car?

^^^^He said tool

Cha-Ching!

Looks like heaven in a hand basket. Sounds like the test drive went well!

Does anyone have recommendations of upper tier SQ competition cars of any era I can look to for reference?

The Dayton looks like a promising choice for a shallow subwoofer. I can't see a major sq gain that would justify the cost difference of the namebrand ones. Paying for a lot of advertisement there, and them banking on naïve customers. Perhaps model the subs you have parameters for in winisd, against the anarchy and see how the outputs Match. The evil tweet was designed by Aaron for discerning listeners like us and would be a very solid choice for its price point. They also have a coupon going still I believe. I just got a pair in the mail and will be listening to them today! Worst case is you have to change one of your drivers after listening. Not something I would shot myself over. Good choice on both mids btw, it shows you did your homework!

At this point I am switching to the large format tweeter. I already bought the HDS. I will probably pick up at least on more large format to to play back to back, before building the pods. Anyone reading this considering the Neo Seas, I will say I had no major complaints. Although they were nothing to write home about imo. Very sterile would be the best way I could describe them. Old man tweeters perhaps. As far as metal dome tweeters, The few I've heard did sound very detailed to me. Possibly something I will play with some more down the road. Lastly I got my SSA Evil tweets in the mail yesterday, that I purchased for another vehicle I will be doing a build on soon. I will be putting them in my current pods today and giving them a listen for the time being!

I'm curious which alpine tweeter are you referring to?

They make an adjustable upper control arm for most vehicles, that you can use to raise it back up if you need a more cost effective approach.

Unless your alternator is rated at 300 amps AND the big3 wires are more then 4 feet, there is no need to upgrade. A 4ga wire can hold 250 amps at 4 feet, just to give you some perspective. The build is loOking good btw!

Sony Cyber-Shot

I knew you guys would like that A-pillar design! Its kinda sexy an shit. The wood template I posted in my ride is for a large format tweeter, but was the same size so figured why not post it. lol

I'm all for you doing a 3-way brother. I would hope to see the end results if not a build log too. I have no problem measuring the fit of the anarchy for you as would love to pick a set up soon for myself. As far as full rangers, all that have been discussed will sound good. Each will have a slight advantage. You have done your homework, now go pick the one that has the advantage you care about most. There will always be a trade off. tweeters are my weak point. BUT I would do a RR for a 3-way if it were me. By design they should be more linear on the top end and reach waaaaaay farther. Just my two cents.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. With a tweeter covering the top and a midbass covering the bottom, the 4" would not be restricted on either end in a small pod correct??? *Sealed and/or ported with fill depending on modeling

Came out with about 3mm of clearance between the steering pump, fuel line and fuel pump. 3mm is as good as a mile anyways!

Now to re-tune the Holley for about the 20th time. I'm kinda pissed that I have been tuning against the pump this whole time, but oh well.

I dismantled the original, just for inspection. Come to find out was a poorly seated valve, and not the diaphragm. Either way was the only part not replaced in the fuel system, so was needed anyways. The right side of the top valve.^ A couple taps with a socket and hammer before putting back together and hanging on the wall for art.^ And the beefier guts of the Edelbrock, Since I had to disassemble to clock the housing.

Finally got this thing installed and plumbed this morning. Took a few attempts and trips to the hardware store to get the lines in a decent spot.

The other funny thing is RMS power can roughly be doubled for every octave over resonant frequency a speaker is crossed. As it is effectively forcing the speaker to be more efficient, and RMS is basically a measurement of efficiency with other parameters accounted for.

Funny thing is over here on the SQ side, ppl run 3-4 times RMS power to their drivers. BUT to gain a greater dynamic range in frequency response for split bursts, not all out continuous SPL.

Unfortunately the Seas ER on sale are actually a little different than the guy I confused it with. the sale one lacks motor strength. This is the ONE I confused it with, and would of been a steal at the sale price. anyways. A TRUE Midbass is an easy one though. Motor strength all the way to the end of the throw and Sd pretty much win. Give me a few days and I will check if the Anarchy will fit, as I would like to know also. Here's another full ranger to check out . I would think the the impedance curve would be worth looking at for a car application? Correct Sean? Same with the enclosure, Wouldn't the size be less important in a car application Sean? Being its not going to play as low as on your desk...

Them guys seem to blow a lot of subs to pull those numbers is all know.

Don't know if it's been said yet, but the comp guys your talking about find the resonate frequently of vehicle itself. Then tune to that frequency. Most off the shelf ported boxes at audio shops are tuned 35-45hz, with a super small port. Because the average person is wowed by how loud it is, not how low it goes. it takes a lot more power to get loud at 32hz compared to 40hz. The 40hz will be loud to your ears. The 32hz will crush your chest and throat, make the earth shake and still not be as loud.

I got it to plateau right at 195 for the last couple hrs. Could of left it longer and wouldn't of went up.