j-roadtatts

I found a way to decouple the sub AND take care of box rise all in one step!!!!!

Perfect way to get two temps of meat too!

Ladies were head over heels, and gave me a 5 star!!

Used this recipe, but with Worcestershire instead of soy sauce. I'm sure Matt would love it also. http://cookingweekends.blogspot.com/2013/09/savory-pan-fried-pork-tenderloin.html?m=1

Made the pan fried pork loin last night... came out dank AF!

That's clutch AF!!! Killing it!

Would love to master a 7" and tweeter setup one time. Off the record, I will probably do a 3-way with a 10" next. Lol first system ever was a set of pioneer towers in the back seat on stock hu power. That thing wailed and was crystal clear. So my goal has always been work my way up to that... only built in, with better staging. After this round I will have the knowledge and confidence to pull it off.

Was in there for contrast... a low performer lol A .7 cu (20L) enclosure is doable, if it nails down the sound I'm after. Would be a very flat rectangle shape, definitely not a golden ratio. I will be jazzed if I can separate the instruments in that region with the eq on h701 and just roll in the IB door. But must test ported since I'm already there, just to make sure. I assume port resonance would be the number to keep an eye on when modeling the port? The Scan definitely requires the most volume of all drivers modeled, so it either works in the test alignment or it doesn't.

I kind of guessed those where the guys you where referring to. I had seen the grilled alpine badged version on eBay also. Lol the may end up in the mix sooner or later... as I would like to play with a RR at some point.

WOW is all I can say!!

WOOT WOOT!!!! Party at Casey's house!!!!!

...or the mustang!!

Will add is WAAAY to flashy for my taste. Would rather be driving my old beat up truck.

Haven't needed the warranty and runs like a beast. Can't say is what I would of bought, but that's what the W picked when I sent her car shopping.

Honestly better that way if it works, as a computer will repeatedly turn the alternator on and off depending on load. Which will cause wierd voltage drops with a high-powered stereo.

Dude I'm super jazzed for you to hear this!! Think I miss read your alternator situation on the last page. If you don't mind a check engine light you should be good just hooking up the two wires. Once you can figure out which ones are field and stator. I could be wrong and the computer won't let the car start. But would be crazy enough to try anyway.

Volvo XC60 perhaps.

About 500 dollars worth of fertilizer.

Check your local welding shops. You should probably go there though, instead of call. They will usually have a scrap pile you will need to look through yourself. They might have sticks in stock too, but generally that kind of stuff is order as needed.

I spent a few hours at a grow expo yesterday. I ended up winning the grand prize in the raffle. lol

Grand Cherokee Summit or SRT. Base models suck, but the fit and finish on the Summit and SRT are stellar. Harman Kardon tunes is a nice bonus. The SRT is the Hemi version!! But the V6 in the summit is plenty powerful. I cant say 0% interest and lifetime warranty suck either. I would think they might as well be considered a European company at this point. lol I saw a X3 yesterday and damn that thing is ugly for a beamer.

I did the math at the time and there was minimal volume comsumed. Each inch of brace is .562 cu in (3/4"x3/4"x1") ...so like 200ish inches is only .06 cu ft. Your 2x2 equals 2.25 cu in per inch (1.5"x1.5"x1")... so 200ish inches is .26 cu ft. still not enough to lose sleep over.

Labyrinth bracing would be ideal. In your case though I would say a combo of both styles previously mentioned would create a similar effect. This is my box^. I will note that the braces are symmetrical, and that is technically a no no. As it will fuck with the waves in the box.. As you see in the guitar pic, the right side is asymmetric, which would be correct way for any bracing.

The extra wire on the alternator most likely is a feed from the (more advanced) computer. The other two are field and stator wires. The one I did required a 47 ohm resistor on the extra wire... then I believe it was hooked to the power wire. Would need to confirm all that to make for sure. Is to tell the alternator to charge. Iirc the resister stepped it down to 5 V, same as the computer would send to it.

I might have come up there and show you guys how to ride a sled. :D