j-roadtatts

Can’t go wrong with anything in the SSA lineup. I own several and I’m very happy with them. Same goes for the evil mids and tweets. Phenomenal performance for the price point.

Oh good God!!!

That design will work great! I have seen guys do the bottom out of fiberglass so that it is molded to the floor. Then build the rest out of wood. Just know the final enclosure volume needs to be closer to about 2.75ft.³ One cube per, then .22 ft.³ for the volume that the subwoofers will displace. I am not near a modeling program right now but would estimate the port will take up at least .4 ft.³ also realize that is the internal volume and the three-quarter inch walls will also require space.

There will not be an audible difference for a daily driver no matter which way you face the port. If you were competing and chasing that last single decibel then having a test box and trying different directions may pay off. I would do what is going to be easiest to build personally. You should be good on power with that amp. The smaller the enclosure the more power the subs will handle. SO if the box ends up a little undersized you’ll be OK. You’ll easily be able to push the subs to their mechanical limits, which is the most output your going to get from the cone moving. The smaller box will not hurt you also in the fact that it will make the tuning frequency have a little more output out of the port. Basically a narrower response but with a higher peak. Here is an example of how one gentleman on here did his port side firing.

Down firing under the seat, ports forward would be a sweet setup. I would recommend a flared tube port such as this. https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-6-flared-port-tube-kit--268-354?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIge66tdPv3QIVRdbACh1bZgHnEAQYAiABEgL_V_D_BwE Without doing the calculations I imagine you will need two ports, to keep the port Length from getting too long. The one I posted is a 6 inch but that was just an example. Let me know if you need help figuring out the tuning. I could get your close and then you can change the lenght of those ports very easily to fine tune to your taste.

Looks great guys!!! Feels like walking into a new casino!

I personally would do them both in the same box, but just for simplicity of building. The other reason is you would want the two enclosures to be relatively matched if you did them separate. Keep in mind that the port itself will consume some of the volume. If you could run external ports, that would help keep the airspace.

You’re killing me over here. I’m Rolling. Thanks for the laughs dude!

Thanks man. They will definitely be the death of me.

Straight out of Orson Welles war of the worlds Eh?

Phenomenal news!! Absolutely love my Dcon.

Love the build Randall!! Clean and simple. thanks for posting!

I’m reasoning with woman x2 here Ryan.

The last front wheel drive engine/tranny swap took me about eight hours by myself. But I had the donor car, and a shop. I would be cussing for a week with this thing about all the specialty tools I fear also. No engine hoist either. Basically hoping the cost to have someone fix it doesn’t outweigh that.

It’s an automatic, not sure of the gear count. I would rock ‘n’ roll a used one all day long if it were my personal ride. Would also allot myself the time to do the job personally.

The Anarchy's ready for testing! Muah ha ha ha ha!! These are .5 cu ft. The other set on the far end is .3 cu. Lots'a baffles to choose from. Mauh ha ha!!!

2007 Edge.

It’s AWD, but has the FWD style transmission you are referring to I’m pretty sure. Then runs through the “power transfer unit”. The motor is sideways. All I know is I’m not fixing it, so am getting ready to get bent over. Not lol What can I say, Annikya has me wrapped around her finger. She always will.

Sounds like you guys are having about the same luck with cars this week as I am. I’m pretty sure the transmission is smoked in my daughters ford. It got ran low and what was left in there was pretty damn black.

Sexy!

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/

Batteries have three ratings that are a good indication of how the will preform. “CA”, which stands for “cranking amps” “CCA” stands for “cold cranking amps” and “RC” which stands for “reserve capacity” time. Next there are the 2 most common types of battery designs. There is a “wet lead battery” often referred to as a starting battery. And there is a “deep cycle/AGM” type. A “starting battery” or “lead battery” is what is typically in a vehicle from the factory. These batteries deliver a large burst of power for a short time as needed for normal engine starting. The battery is then GRADUALLY recharged by the alternator. Unlike a “deep cycle” or “AGM” battery, starting batteries are not designed to withstand multiple discharge/re-charge cycles, and draining it can significantly short it’s life. The “deep cycle” or “AGM” batteries on the other hand are designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. Deep cycle batteries can be repeatably discharged and re-charged without causing damage or shortening their life. Also by design they are able to discharge/recharge VERY rapidly. (Thinner plates in the battery but a lot more of them) Your car has a group 65 battery. Unfortunately there is not really a “group” size bigger that you will probably be able to fit in its location. Not really that big a deal as a group 65 battery is f’ing huge. But if you have a basic lead battery that is say 650 CA, with an reserve time of 75 minutes. You would greatly benefit from upgrading to a deep cycle with say 1000 or 1100 cranking amps and 150 minutes a reserve time. Basically it would be the right tool for the job. I would not waste my money on any high dollar deep cycle such as an Optima. The super start platinum‘s from O’Reillys will perform just as well. (bonus is if you have a business account there you’ll get a nice discount also) Your amplifiers max amperage draw is 250 amps. While the four gauge wire you are using is not up to the task of delivering the amount of amps needed, it WILL NOT cause headlight dimming. Will only shorten the life of your amp as it is not getting the power it needs to work properly and therefore is struggling. If you are sitting on a grip of four gauge wire then I would just run two stretches from your battery to amp. That will take care of that. Don’t forget to double up the ground Wire also. The big three will not hurt, but is not always necessary imo. If anything do the two ground wires portion. The power wire from the alternator to the battery is generally as big as the alternator needs anyways. So yeah before I added anything else I would fix the deficiencies you already have. Then wash, rinse, repeat as necessary.

But i'm stuck doing the Bob Vila...

Have my test boxes all but ready also!!!!

Speaker porn Sunday!!