j-roadtatts

Huh? That is an E46, if you look hard you can find one for $10k. $15k would buy you a very nice one. Amusing, FWD is a No-Go for me or my wife. No way, no how. I don't need understeer in the snow. I'll take a well balanced RWD ANY day of the week in inclement weather. Guess I need to look at the badge better. I will take the getting pulled felling anyday over the getting pushed. I own 3 4wd's and still drive my Honda all winter except for the very worst days. I like how I can over/understeer with the throttle and really turn with the e-brake. Huh? Why would you EVER want to understeer. The e-brake will work in any drive format. In a RWD you can turn with the throttle, with front you CANNOT. I will take the weight over the drive tires anyday. A fwd turns harder when the steering tires are also pulling, NOT just getting pushed where the weight of the vehicle is getting pushed. I have never been to MN but I can only imagine it must be pretty flat, because You won't get very far with RWD only here.(the ditch) Hmm, you really need to open your mind. By FAR the best winter car I have ever driven (outside of snow clearance) was a naturally aspirated Porsche 944. Perfect 25% weight in each corner with a nominal driver. That is ALWAYS the best way to have traction. Putting the weight over the fronts does not help you turn, nor does it help you stop, it also makes it easier to spin. The ONLY advantage of FWD is the same advantage that 4WD has that puts everyone in the ditch. From a dead stop perhaps you can accelerate faster. To me turning and stopping are MUCH more important in inclement weather. MN is flat, but not all of MN and RWD doesn't get you in the ditch not knowing how to drive does. Going off the road accelerating is pure operator error, going off because you can't stop or turn isn't. There is no way you can argue that FWD is better for either of those. Little history piece for you as well. FWD exists as it is cheaper to manufacture and for an average person they don't notice the difference. So some manufacturers choose to save money and compromise on all areas of performance. Others choose to do the opposite and refuse to cut that big ass corner. You probably drive all automatics too, but that doesn't make them better. I use the gears to slow down on ice and snow, NOT the brake's. A RWD car's ass will slide side ways a soon as the you start up a hill, a FWD will go where the tire's are pulling it. As an example Sean, When I am stuck on a snowmoble, I can have a single person pull a front ski to get me moving and or it would take several people pushing from behind. Simple Physics is the reason for FWD not cost. A FWD or AWD car will handle and corner better than a RWD anyday. Believe me brother I am the FARTHEST from close minded person you will ever meet, But I do like a good debate.

Heres the fuse holders I bought. STINGER ELECTRONICS BLOWOUT - eBay (item 280473693239 end time Mar-11-10 10:41:37 PST) I still need to order a waterproof one for the alt. wire. I think I am In love with my BTL. This Monster is amazing, Definetly a dr.jeckl/mr.hyde. So far everything I have listened to sounds amazing. The fronts sound better to me by the day, and MY brain definetly likes the front only sound more. I got the Sirius turned on also and it sound suprizingly amazing. Thanks again EVERYBODY for thier Interest and for your Knowledge, I LOVE SSA.

Huh? That is an E46, if you look hard you can find one for $10k. $15k would buy you a very nice one. Amusing, FWD is a No-Go for me or my wife. No way, no how. I don't need understeer in the snow. I'll take a well balanced RWD ANY day of the week in inclement weather. Guess I need to look at the badge better. I will take the getting pulled felling anyday over the getting pushed. I own 3 4wd's and still drive my Honda all winter except for the very worst days. I like how I can over/understeer with the throttle and really turn with the e-brake. Huh? Why would you EVER want to understeer. The e-brake will work in any drive format. In a RWD you can turn with the throttle, with front you CANNOT. I will take the weight over the drive tires anyday. A fwd turns harder when the steering tires are also pulling, NOT just getting pushed where the weight of the vehicle is getting pushed. I have never been to MN but I can only imagine it must be pretty flat, because You won't get very far with RWD only here.(the ditch)

Thats where I personally would start. This will yeild you the best results. Just don't forget to do the big 3.

I think you will be fine with the T/A and EQ. Also try different phasing on the tweeters and mids until you find the combo with the smoothest response curve.

I Agree completly with Andrew. IF anything geting a HO alternator is better than a second battery if you ONLY listen at loud volumes when driving down the highway.

or anywhere else that managed to escape the real estate bubble for that matter The Midwest (IL, WI, MN, ND, SD, IA, NE) normally don't have the fluctuations the rest of the country has. Chicago is amazingly stable for a big city. Ours flatlined, don't know that it decreased. Some people overpayed, but hey there are plenty of idiots...including my neighbor All the bubble busting did here is slim down the choices on the market. Everyone here thinks they can get rich flipping houses.

Huh? That is an E46, if you look hard you can find one for $10k. $15k would buy you a very nice one. Amusing, FWD is a No-Go for me or my wife. No way, no how. I don't need understeer in the snow. I'll take a well balanced RWD ANY day of the week in inclement weather. Guess I need to look at the badge better. I will take the getting pulled felling anyday over the getting pushed. I own 3 4wd's and still drive my Honda all winter except for the very worst days. I like how I can over/understeer with the throttle and really turn with the e-brake.

I am just killing time at work, Otherwise it would of been alot shorter and sweeter.

I looked at over 300 houses before buying mine. Took a few years... Why does that not surprise me... I'm trying to find a rental for August lease, and what I want is damn near impossible in this town it seems like. Try buying a house in the Aspen Valley, the economics here are FUBAR'ed. The cheapest 3bd/2ba is 250,000 and thats cheap.

House hunting SUCKs. I'm SOOO ready to move though. We have looked at a TON of houses.

The Neighbors BM'er is a 328i, I looked some up this morning, One like this is only 25-30k. BUT they are rear wheel drive witch is a NO-GO for me. Now on the other hand the M3's and 5's are still 60k. I looked at an M3 that was murdered out and IT was REALLY FLY. I on the other hand want a new Honda Accord Crosstour. This car comes with a compartment under the rear floorboard that just SREAM's to be filled with batterys. My first car was a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback 3-door, and I had 2 kicker 12's in the back and 6 1/2's in the doors. MAN did that hatchback sound good.

Lets do some math. You have a 160 amp alternator, So when you are driving down the road you alternator is producing 160 amps or 1600 watts (amps x 10=watts) at full atlernator RPM's. NOW your stereo ONLY draws the 2500 watts when you have the stereo turned ALL THE WAY UP. You battery is a storage tank for amps so we will use the D3400 for an example. The D3400 fully charged holds 4000 watts, Your car uses 750-1500 watts to operate, and the stereo is using 2500 at FULL VOLUME. So in our example Lets assume you are listening at FULL VOLUME driving down the highway and your alternator is producing its MAX watts of 1600 and the rest of the amperage demand is drawn from the D3400 battery. The battery is filling the gap so to speak. The problem NOW is the alternator is NOT charging the battery SO after you drain the battery below the remaining amps, you WILL have voltage drop. NOW lets say you are driving down the same highway and ONLY listening at 1/2 VOLUME, Your stereo is ONLY drawning 1250 watts plus what the car is using. NOW you see that at 1/2 volume you could listen ALL day and night without much voltage drop. But at FULL volume you are ONLY going to be able to listen without voltage For a limited amount of time BEFORE you must turn the stereo down and let the atlernator charge the battery back up. NOW the reason you see people with multible batterys is Because they want to have a longer time playing at FULL volume before they must turn the stereo down due to voltage drop OR they listen alot when they aren't driving the car to run the alternator, aka parked. THE reason COMPETITION vehichles have multible battery is because THEY are trying to produce a VERY LARGE AMP RESERVE to use ALL AT ONCE to produce a HIGH score.

On my last Honda Accord, I put the knob in a cubby under the stereo. It was a tight fit but lOOked good. I had to take the cubby piece out and use machine screws w/nuts on the side you couldn't see. As stated before Depending on your setup you may not even need one, as my last car had sealed subs and I NEVER even used the knob , just set it and forget.

I have Alpine CDA-9886 and the subwoofer level is one click of the volume Knob. VERY HIDDEN.

All jokes aside. That Thing is P-P-P-Poundin' I'm sure, lOOks gOOd Brother Chop. Cant believe you went to to savage yard without ME. Guess it would help if I lived Closer. Steve probably pulled his muscle carrying his sub around.LOL.

THIS here is CLASSIC. I'm Crying I laughed SOOO hard.

HOLY moster 8. That thing is gourgous.

how do you do that "kerfed port" ? in the Philippines we call that flared.. but how do you guys do that we are just really good at what we do!! lol thats not a very informative answer at all imo. I will help. Build them VERY carefully.LOL Sounds like you got a gOOd plan for the box, I will be waiting to see the progress. Keep up good work.

An Optima is a small step up from your conventional battery. Go with a AGM battery FTW, Kinetik or XS is a BIG step up. The AGM batterys are equivilent to two optimas of the same size as far as car audio is concerned. I own both Optima and XS power batterys. I have dual red tops in my Blazer w/Powermaster 200amp alt. I have D3400 and D1200 in my car, And I had An Optima before and it DIDN"T like the audio setup, The D3400 by its self is equel to 3-4 of the red tops.

I have had the tweeters out of phase with the mids since I put the tweeters in the door. I am starting over on tuning, back with EVERYTHING in phase just my starting point. and yes it sounds terrible that way, but I haven't listened in 2 months since I started building, SO this gives ME subjectiveness.

Thanks for the votes of confidence Guys. I have had alot of fun building and sharing with you guys. I enjoy learning from everybody here and love to here your thoughts, ideas, or ANYTHING else you want to say. Anyways I listened another 20 minutes on the way home. I set the sub and mids at 63hz 18db/slope and this sounded best so far for a quick setting. I have all the front speakers in phase right now and they don't sound that good. I would say theres a big null around 4-5k, midbass is average, small dip at 200hz and seems to also dip around 500hz. I spent most of the day adjusting to the 15" BTL. WOW, this sub has the ability to get VIOLENT.

Easy man I was hangin' out the car window, with my wifes camera(mine died, hers is pink ) Plus I think they are drug dealers and I didn't want to get shot with my pink camera.LOL. Anyways its the right color and I would drive It.

Definely can be alot of trial and error trying to get the perfect sound stage. Some vehicles are definetly more giving than other's for mounting locations. So many Phase combinations to try also. So many OTHER factor's, Always FUN though Or we wouldn't doing it. Are you making your own kickpods?

Right now I am REALLY excited to seal up the front door's and see how much that helps the midbass. I am working on trying ALL the combination's of phasing on the comps to get the flatest response curve. I will hook up the laptop here soon and see what the Imprint mic has to say about the response curve. I will be hooking the type-r's up active once I get the wire ran. The 6.5 sounds great full range actually SO Hopefully the tweeter can keep up. I am guessing the R's passive is around 3400-3500 hz 12db/slope So I will start there. I can't wait to use the H100 to its full potental, and need to start a NOTE LOG so I can remember everything I have tried and what effects it had. Its hard to say at this time what my next front speaker purchase will be? I have a TON of idea's and theory's, but for now I think the type-r's are good speaker's to learn with.