j-roadtatts

WE love the input Ryan. I too agree that music is SOOOO dymamic and recorded at different levels, at different studio's, with different producers at the mixing boards, with different technologys, SO the gain could be all over the place in that aspect. I like to set my gains a little high but I am the ONLY PERSON in control of the volume knob and am famillar with my system. The 9886 w/H100 has MORE than enough control right from the drivers seat that its easy to adjust sub and speaker levels for every different music source as needed once the inital settings are made. As far as freq. response from the manufacter go's I "THINK" they are testing with low wattage, and once we the consumer are applying max RMS then they might not keep up at high volumes crossed so low but should still work fair down to 80 or 63 in most cases with a tall slope.

This pic was takin' in the middle of winter and I actually washed the car about a week before the photo SO don't give me any shizzz. At night time I can't really see out of the sides when theres no street lights. I got this bish tinted the day after I bought it, I felt like I was I a giant fish bowl before tint.

Thats exactly why I did the pods the way I did. I so tired of seeing all the same tear drop shaped pods. I like to be able to shape things to look more custom fit to the application. AND you did a beautiful job doing it. Thanks for showing this method on here, I see it alot on the fiberglass forums but not much over here. I am waiting for the opportunity to use it myself. My dash pods I just made, I used felt (speaker box carpet actually) because it doesn't need stretched and can be somewhat formed and hold its shape. Keep up the awesome work.

Hey hows my NCSU brother today? I also wanted to add that besides from helping with the response curve, Changing the phasing on only one mid bass can sometimes eliminate destructive destortion/cancellation between the mid bass drivers. This could posibly help you with your mid bass if cancellation is occouring and causing a suck hole at that freq. ANYWAYS the Eclipse manual says your sc8365 should play down to 30hz SO i guess I don't understand what you mean when you say they are meant to be crossed @100 but bottom out at 63hz@18db? I have some 10"ers I will send you for free plus cost of shipping if you just want some for fitting and to play with? I have the no namers I was talking about OR some older Polk 10" woofers that probably only play up to 500-1000hz, just a thought. I have always liked having a few speakers I don't care about to move around the cabin to see the different effects, THIS really helpful to understand how things effect the reponse curve in real time. ANYWAYS heres a couple pic of the free drivers, not pretty but they still sound pretty good, good enough for testing. Infact I have been listening to the top ones for over a month now, its only getting about half power and sound good for free air. the polks came out of a friends truck and where matched with some tweeters and it actually sounded decent for some old polks and some cheap no name tweeters. I would just sent the drivers, no boxes.

Heres the grill I was talking about that I got for 7 bucks ea from madisound. The metal is thicker than I thought they would be, And like I said I am reversing the unseen mounting ring for more than enought depth. Good luck.

Each door has 2 pods fiberglassed in at the bottom holding a pair of Pioneer 4-way 6 1/2's on axis. Also have a pair of Pioneer tweeters running of just deck power. So basically 8 6.5 4-ways on about 400watts. Everything comes in loud and clear..... Well, WE would LOVE to see pictures of the doors, and front set-up also. I have Pioneers in my truck and a Pioneer HU, I have always been happy with them.

Then at least your insurance claim is higher. Atleast the muthafuckas ain't gonna have your stereo.

quote "BTW I think the REAL TECHS on here quit helping you when you started a second topic about the same thing.IDK. " I just wanted to quote this shit.

Stand on one foot and count 1 one thousand... 2 one thousand....3 one thousa.... until the are happy you don't fall over, then they watch your eyes a bunch by making you stare at the end of their pen while the move it all over the place. Nothing very effective, BC i can pass that shit when I am fucked up out of my mind.

Believe me I am in the same boat as you with the mid bass. A 10" is not impossible to mount, BUT will take some time and effert as you can see from my build. BUT not much more if you already have to modify to fit an 8" . I have some no name 10"s hooked up right now free air sitting on the floor that play up to around 4000hz, they are just temp until I get my pods done, BUT i am AMAZED how decent the mid bass is for some no namer 6.5ohm 10" drivers and they play ALL the way up to my tweeter and alittle. ANYWAYS I suggest an 8" or a 10" if you want to make it fit, and the Dayton 2" domes. The Daytons handle alot of power and are sensitive for an 8ohm driver. I know they don't play super high freq. but the human ear can't hear past 15-17k once you are an adult anyways. (unless you are a freak like M5) Besides thats an easy compramise concidering most musical noise is alot lower freq. anyways. I will do the Dayton myself IF I am not happy with the output of the 3" full ranger, WE will see. I assume you are on a budget SO I will tell you this, ALOT of drivers are overpriced for OUR needs, there is no magic speaker and an affordable one will make sound just the same as the overpriced ones.

DUI? no duey, thank GOD. Just possession and paraphernalia. I got the second one dropped and the judge gave me double fines since it was my second time for the weed. How do you actually get caught? I was driving my wifes xterra witch dosen't have front tint, and is the same height as the stupid city cops. I was leaving work, and was clearing out my pipe so I could load a bowl, well the cop was pulling up next to me when I was clearing the pipe in my mouth. he pulled me over and I am passive SO I gave him the weed and pipe. I do have a Colorado Medical Marijana Licence BUT I am not suppose to consume outside of my house. So basicly its legal here like Canada or Cali BUT if you are caught doing a crime they still charge you. I honestly didn't make to big of fuss because I was just happy they didn't give me a DUI, They did roadside me. But I was honest with the cop from the get go and he seen me leaving work SO he believed me when I told him I was clearing my bowl and hadn't used any yet. I also told them, this is like the first beer after work to me because I DON"T drink and haven't for 18+ months. SO $338.00 and I can go on with my life, BTW the fine was so high BC this was my second time.

Headroom is a beautiful thing and will definetly give you the dynamic power SO you are not clipping. Here is my reasoning on the my assuming the math for around 1/6 gain, Like I said I am trying to help you get what you have sounding better OK SO hear me out. Thanks. The Arc amp is rated @ 320 watts RMS@ 14.4v, In a perfect world, 1/2 gain with 4 volt input would be the 320 watts RMS, SO the "math" I am refering to is ROUGHLY 1/6 gain should be around 100 watts with YOUR 4 volt pre-outs on the H100. I know that the 4 volts is not constant because it changes with the volume SO for MY MATH I am assuming that the 28 out of 35 is ROUGHLY 4 volts. WE don't live in a perfect world BUT I feel this is a good place to start. Like I said I am just trying to help you tune what you have, AND am not trying to cause a dilemma for anyone. I am not here because I care about votes, BUT it is funny you vote me down without asking my reasoning, BUT DON'T VOTE ANYONE UP WHEN YOU DO FEEL THEY HELPed YOU OUT????? sorry to be aggressive in my responses as I am only human, trying to help, and just feel sassy somedays. AS FAR AS DYMAMICS of the music I PERSONALLY am running an Alpine MRP-F600 with 300 watt RMS bridged to my 100 watt RMS front speakers SO I COULDN"T AGREE MORE that headroom is a beautiful thing. The dynamic peaks sound AMAZING in my set-up with this much headroom is WHY I am wondering what stting you "might" have wrong. LIke I said I am not here for votes or a popularity contest, I am 32 years old and enjoy learning and helping others along the way, I don't mind admitting I am wrong IF it means WE are ALL learning.I am NOT the most savy person in the world with words SO PLEASE be a little gentler and I will do the same. SO anyways back to the topic. IF you speakers don't sound bad why do you want to replace them? BTW I think the REAL TECHS on here quit helping you when you started a second topic about the same thing.IDK.

SO in other words you have your gain set to high and are wondering why your mids are bottoming out. IF ALL recordings in the WHOLE WORLD were recorded at the same level then maybe you would be good, but they are not. I say your gain should be real close to 1/6 gain bc that is 100 watts rms w/ a 4 volt input on you 320 watt rms ARC amp. Your speakers are rated @ 100 watts rms, your amp is rated at 320 watts rms. Let me explain how I came up with this math, which is for reference only and not exact. Look, I am trying to help you understand why your 300 dollar speakers sound like poop. I am not saying this is an exact wattage on your gain, BUT that you should start at around the 1/6 mark, IF the speakers DON'T get ANY louder from the going above 1/6 gain then you are reaching the mechanical limits of the drivers. ALL I am suggesting is you listen with the gain low and turn it up slowly until the speakers don't get any louder, if thats 1/6 great if its more great. Sorry for not specifing this as for reference ONLY. Please DON'T take my joking SO serious Brother.

SO in other words you have your gain set to high and are wondering why your mids are bottoming out. IF ALL recordings in the WHOLE WORLD were recorded at the same level then maybe you would be good, but they are not. I say your gain should be real close to 1/6 gain bc that is roughly 100 watts rms w/ a 4 volt input on you 320 watt rms ARC amp. Your speakers are rated @ 100 watts rms, your amp is rated at 320 watts rms. Let me explain how I came up with this math, which is for reference only and not exact.

oh ya, and heres some white paper to explain this phenomenom with the different phasing. http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/whitepapers/sr6500.pdf Its down towards the bottom pages, BUT this is ALL a good read.

With the Arc bridged you should have the gain set at around 1/6 as a guess. where is your gain set? Yes you will change the phase at the passive x-over for each individual driver, BUT just start by reversing the drivers that don't sound right. GET A NOTEBOOK and write down what you thought of each wiring combo, What you are trying to achieve is better response curve from the drivers that don't sound right with everything in phase. I start with the driver that sounds like its out of place, or barking at you over the other drivers. What you want is ALL the speakers to sound like ONE PERFECT SPEAKER or single sound source. Remember to set all eq's flat, I personally left the T/A on but you can test with and without T/A, In my ride there was no way to test without bc the driverside speakers are so close to me.

This is a loaded question. I honestly think that if you worked HARD then the sugar you take in will have an extreme low likely hood of being deposited as fat. This rest of this will deviate from the original goal a bit. That goal being performance increase and less pain and faster recovery time, but it does tie in. Unless you're doing a ketogenic type diet I am convinced that overall the sugar after a HARD and depleating work out will result in only a better overall body comp. The sugar in this instance is really only used to force insulin and IGF like compounds into play. They will help shuttle nutrients to the places they need to go. It has a verry low likely hood of converting to fat as the muscles you just work will have so much more blood flow. This is why body builder type guys are always worried about their "pump" and the timing of it. It's getting the max blood into that area as blood caries amino's and the materials to repair the muscles you just broke down. On a big picture scale building more muscle will always result in burning more fat than just trying to burn fat all the time. The more muscle you have the more calories you can burn while resting. Short term fat loss benefits would also be if you have more muscle you can train that much harder. Thus burning more every time you put the muscle to work again Longer term is that if you get sick or injured a larger muscle supply means more to break down and stay healthy/alive and you will have higher recovery performance. Fair enough. Thanks for the better overall perpective, I eat sugar like its going out of style anyways. AND YES I am just trying to get better recovery after workouts So very helpful info all together. Like sean said I will also start with the food based method first, as I have never really tryed supplements other than my daily multi-vitamin.

I would love to hear them both. I guess I need to start traveling to shows.

It amazes me ppl will trip over a dollar to pick up a dime.lol. FI for the love of your sub, Bub. Nick you da' man.

And get this! They are FREE! Geeze, I wonder where I could find one? lol. I sent this to my friend, and this is her response... "Is there a rental service?!?! All I see is the question-- did anyone answer??" HEY, don't be telling everyone about the "free book place". haha. lol.

Start with something insanely basic. 1 cup of this Bodybuilding.com - NOW Dextrose Powder - Corn Sugar! On sale now! With one scoop(provided in the tub) of this Bodybuilding.com - Syntrax Nectar - Best Tasting Protein! On sale now! That syntax looks good, and the dextrose is cheap, I may just try some out. I have some protein poweders building up at my place but they are cheap lol Nectrar tastes good. Like fruit. I always got apple myself. I used to take plain yogurt and add a scoop of the nectar product and that would be a really good breakfast. Then I got cheap as I was going through so much protein with 3 shakes a day so I switched to sci fit. It didn't taste half as good but it is dirt cheap. Thankfully I have always had an iron stomach and no protein ever bothered it. Some guys I knew could only have specific types that cost big $$. Is it bad to mix the protein powder with milk instead of water? I've found that it makes it taste 1,000 times better. I know it's lactose and not glucose, so a bit different sugar and perhaps not optimal? However, I've also found that it basically makes it impossible to do any more workout afterward because the milk just sits in my stomach and gives me a sideache. I'm not an advanced supplement guy, I only do the simple whey protein powder right after I lift. Depending on your goals its perfectly fine. Milk has fat (which is good) and has slow burning proteins (hence the sits in your stomach), usually called Casein protein. They sell Casein protein by itself for people who want a slower burning protein. So a fast burning protein like whey, coupled with milk in the morning can give you a quick start with slow proteins that stay with you longer. My body owns lactose, really pretty sure in my younger years I could take down a gallon of milk and hold it down. I used to come in after being in 100*+ weather and drink a glass of milk while I was still sweating, and never had a problem. YES Speaking of goals, I ASS-U-ME that the advice your giving (dem beats) is based on the goal of muscle gain WITHOUT weight gain? i.e. miniumize body fat percentage? I am trying to min. body fat and NOT trying to get any bigger. Was 250lbs 5+ yrs ago, now I am @190lbs.

Lookin' good with the wood. The box looks mean, Jellybean. lol What are ya' running for mids and highs?

What amp do you have them hooked to? Have you tried different phase combonations on the comps you have now?

Alpine type-x PRO or Polk SR600's are my recommendations over the choices you gave, Both are SQ comps and come with a ring radiator tweeter. What are you running right now? to compare to? You are NOT going to get clarity by running two sets of comps, you know this.

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